1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[sugarmaker]

Ted,
I like pictures. The 1000 word thing. And I write enough too!
I did work on the pass side dor hinge pins today for a hour. And got the bottom one to move!


Top hinge pin is still fighting me for sure. Heat gun and blaster and repeated blows with a BFH just haven't budged it much if any!

I may order the 5 inch door bottom patch panels from Eckler. Having the patch panels in hand might be the thing I need to get this door repaired or decide to leave it alone?
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,


Given the state of the truck and your overall objectives for it, I think that the patch panel for the right side door is an unnecessary next step. Once you start major sheet metal repairs, where do you draw the line and still leave the truck basically original, especially when it comes to the paint finish aging? It can be a slippery slope. If it were mine, I would take advantage of the window being out of the door and use some rust-inhibiting paint on the inside of the door skin to stop the oxidation and on the edges on the outside where there's rust through. Who knows, maybe a rust-free '32-'34 closed cab door will turn up down the road in the same color with about the same amount of finish aging? If not, your current door looks like it belongs.

[KDL]

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Folks,

Had not thought of the idea of reinforcing the area? Hummm? KDL Need some additional pictures of your truck!


Hope things are good in Ford Land!
Regards,
Chris

One of these days I'll figure out how to post pics on this site.

Your truck looks way too good as it is to put a patch panel on it.

[sugarmaker]

David, KDL and Ford folks,
Thank you for the words of wisdom, support, and direction. The slippery slope thing is real guys. BTDT with tractors.

KDL the picture thing is easier than rust repairs!

So as a test. I took on a very small rust project on the truck tonight. The cover on the spare tire support (the round cap) for some reason had a hole rusted in it, about the size of a dime. I filled it in with the Mig from the inside. ground down the exterior, and applied some black primer, a couple coats of dirt and sand. Doesn't look too bad.


A major repair to the door. Not so easy peasy for sure! I may still remove the door for evaluation. And possibly repair the weak hinge area.

I was able to remove the top hinge pin by using some cobbled up tooling and my air hammer. Once in position it took about 10 seconds for it to push out! This will make it much easier to take the door off in the future if needed also.


Nested drivers did the trick. But the heat and PB Blaster didnt hurt either!


Top hinge pin removal. Small things, we will take as a win!. I think I am going to remove the door and get a better look at the rust damage under the door also. Rust repairs will be back burner ed for a couple days.


Regards,
Chris

[al's28/33]

Chris,
I agree with David and others to try to leave the door "as-is" ….. is there any way to try some bondo work on the inside of the door ?


What about that spray insulating foam just along the bottom inside of the door to help provide some interior support for that super thin sheet metal? While the glass is out, You would have to tape over the holes to prevent that stuff from oozing out, then cut and shave and sand the excess. Then very carefully just try to patch paint those exposed areas from the outside ? I know it's not the correct way of doing things but it would keep the exterior patina in overall even condition ……. anyone try that stuff ? Just throwing ideas at you Chris, sorry if not the most appropriate method.

[Tinker]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If you can find other doors or you want to go through the process of patches is up to you.

It's been almost a 100 yrs to get to this point in rot. Not sure if it'll all fall apart in the next 50 yrs. If the holes don't hinder you from driving and having fun. Maybe don't worry. Certainly wouldn't make me not admire it and stop at a show.

But if you want a project there it is. It will snowball as it will not match the look of the truck now. Which will mean eventually there will be paint. Then all the history is lost. Been there, done that.

[Tinker]

You being a tractor guy you probably understand the hit/miss motor group. To restore/paint or leave in their work clothes. Makes you think anyone can restore a car with funds and time, but no one can fake actual history.

[tomcarman]

Originally Posted by al's28/33

Chris,
I agree with David and others to try to leave the door "as-is" ….. is there any way to try some bondo work on the inside of the door ?


What about that spray insulating foam just along the bottom inside of the door to help provide some interior support for that super thin sheet metal? While the glass is out, You would have to tape over the holes to prevent that stuff from oozing out, then cut and shave and sand the excess. Then very carefully just try to patch paint those exposed areas from the outside ? I know it's not the correct way of doing things but it would keep the exterior patina in overall even condition ……. anyone try that stuff ? Just throwing ideas at you Chris, sorry if not the most appropriate method.

I would consider that if it were mine. I've used spray foam insulation numerous times. It can be cut with a utility knife and sanded relatively smooth as well as providing some structural integrity to a point. It also can be removed at some future point if desired. Given the intended use of the truck in it's presumed retirement years I believe that is a viable option for now. I also agree with David's advice in post #1122. Once one cuts into and welds panels in there's no going back. One last bit of knowledge I can share should you choose the expandable spray foam insulation is a little goes a long way. My advice would be to get a can and do a mock up out of scrap, wood or metal it doesn't matter, of the door gap width between the inner and outer panels and experiment. My experience is it is easy to apply way too much at first thinking it's not enough then as it cures it continues to expand and then there's a mess. Worth a try for less than $10.
Tom

[Tinker]

I'd stay away from the spray foam. It will retain moisture and make it worse. Just me. If there is some shake when closing the door,. Maybe add some plastic/foam shims from the inside. or live with it. Keeping the air flow over time will be better to the rusting metal then the foam.

[tomcarman]

Originally Posted by Tinker

I'd stay away from the spray foam. It will retain moisture and make it worse. Just me. If there is some shake when closing the door,. Maybe add some plastic/foam shims from the inside. or live with it. Keeping the air flow over time will be better to the rusting metal then the foam.

Respectfully, spray foam does not retain moisture, it sheds it as it glosses over when cured.
Tom

[Tinker]

Tom, I disagree over time as it breaks down and it restricts air movement. I respect you. Just my thought and my personal opinion.


Roofing tar will probably do a better job sealing the inside of the door area as far as continual rust. But won't do much for if you want to have that solid door shutting sound.

[STEVE O]

I'd have to go with the roofing tar, smoothed out very smooth on the outside then add some dust-dirt rubbed on to make it blend and not be obvious.
Enjoying every post as always,
Steve

[sugarmaker]

Guys,
All of this is exactly what I need to stir the brain juices a little. These rigs have been patched up in good and not so good ways for years. As you have seen my truck is mostly original (except for electrical) and in its work clothes. No plan for a complete tear down.

The broken cracked and rusted areas continue to tempt me to try to correct improve all of those broken places. Just that part of my fix it brain kicking in.

So here is the plan today. Now that the hinge pins are loose. I am going to remove the door from the cab. Get a bunch of pictures of the other areas of concern. and develop a plan to repair non exterior show areas first. The door bottom is pretty ragged i think.

I will think about options like spray foam and some covering options on the exterior. But all of those are going to be about as obvious as cutting out a area and welding in a steel patch. Humm. More to ponder! You guys are great! I just need to continue to move forward.
More on that later today.
I need a Washington blue spray paint primer! If the cab was black it would not be nearly as hard to try to match a paint color.
Just thinking, not much doing, on this end. 6 degrees out side, the 64 degree shop waits for me. Sucking down propane by the gallon!

Tinker has a good summary statement here:
"But if you want a project there it is. It will snowball as it will not match the look of the truck now. Which will mean eventually there will be paint. Then all the history is lost. Been there, done that."

Ok what if I was really brave and only cut out and repaired the areas of the rust? Assuming I could construct small patches to fit. Yea would look like band aids probably too. Will see!
Thanks!

Regards,
Chris

[neilp]

I think you should fix the door. Then you have a whole new challenge to consume your time of making the repair disappear. I think with your tractor resto skills you can do it.

PML

[sidevalve8ba]

This has nothing to do with door repair Chris, but with your background in restoring classic tractors I wonder if you are familiar with Brillman Company? They offer a lot of classic wiring and automotive electrical products that I have used in the past. Really nice folks to deal with.

Brillman.com

[sugarmaker]

Neil, Sidevalve8ba, folks,

Neil, my work on tractor parts just makes me a little more dangerous. Here is a example of a pair of rear fenders for a Allis WD45 tractor. These are similar to repairing an egg!:
Crunched so bad it needed cut out:

Rusted so bad center was cut out:












On these, bondo is your friend and the color is going to be easy peasy. Orange!


Granddaughter helping me install the fender on the WD45:



I am not familiar with the Brillman company. My electrical skills leaves a lot to be desired!
Noon break.
The 32 door is in the fab shop. Have looked and adjusted the hinge damage and started the process to weld the stress cracks back together around the lower door hinge.


Stress cracks:




The exterior of the door:


underside of door is not real good:


Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,


As you no doubt know well, there is always more rust damage once you start to tackle it than initial examination suggests. But, you can go after much of the door bottom damage and not noticeably affect the exterior appearance of the door, just as you are doing with the hinge repairs.

[al's28/33]

Chris please don't paint that old truck orange!!!!!

[sugarmaker]

David, Al, Folks,
Yes I was reminded about the ever expanding rust area once you open that can of worms!
Hummm Had not thought about orange as a finish color. But if you look around on the web enough you will find a couple AAB type trucks painted with orange paint. Ok we will hold off on that.

The inside of the door hinge area Yes these cracks extended under the rivet heads. They will now be used as part of the reinforcing feature.


Sorry its dark:


The door has been located back on the truck with the help of John (42 Deluxe) He came by just in time to pull me off the ledge!


As you can tell the exterior of the doors were repainted at some point. Maybe to hide a logo/ name of the original owner? It is a little more green in the color. Part of the story I guess. Inside of the doors are the same Washington Blue as the rest of the truck.

John also helped me prototype the felts in the door frames. Just need some window anti rattlers coming from Joes Antique Auto parts. Then the glass can go back in.




So for now the door is just as rusty on the lower portion as it was! It can still be worked on another day! All is good!
Regards,
Chris

[cas3]

There are people that can repaint a patch and match the patina exactly. I am not one of them, but I think a youtube search would find some results. I am in the leave the old look camp too, but patina without rust holes is mo better