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01-12-2023, 02:28 PM | #1 |
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Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Hi,
I got a PM where where solidaxle noticed my SW Columbia speedometer transmission (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...4&postcount=15) and asked about my clutch control for the vacuum unit. I welded a 1/4" tab onto my 32 clutch arm. I fabricated a bracket that mounts inside the 32 frame rail. I think one of the holes was stock. I then bent and threaded some 1/4" rod to connect this vacuum unit/frame bracket to the Columbia vacuum valve |
01-12-2023, 05:41 PM | #2 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Looks a lot better then mounting it on top of the cylinder head as in an original installation.
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01-12-2023, 06:17 PM | #3 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Yes it does.
Glenn |
01-12-2023, 09:45 PM | #4 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Very nice work! I'm going to be putting a Columbia in my 32 Cab next Spring/Summer - I like your setup - really clean design.
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01-13-2023, 08:52 AM | #5 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Thank you B&S!
Here is another picture showing the 3/8" ID fuel hose to vacuum canister connections. Due to the tight bends, I slipped on some springs over the hose to prevent crimping. Glenn |
01-13-2023, 10:03 AM | #6 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
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01-13-2023, 10:41 AM | #7 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Glenn,
I see the speedometer changer on the other side of the motor mounted to the firewall. Do you have two individual cables and knobs or did you incorporate the two into one pull? |
01-13-2023, 10:43 AM | #8 | |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Quote:
Picture attached is a "proper" installation upon a '40. Proper being a relative term as a Columbia was not an authorized accessory on a 1940 Ford.
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01-13-2023, 12:32 PM | #9 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
I took some control rod pictures which I’ll post along with response to your questions B&S.
Glenn |
01-13-2023, 12:37 PM | #10 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
mounted on a spacer behind K member, used 37 style clamp around clutch pedal to connect vacuum plunger rod to pedal
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01-14-2023, 07:06 AM | #11 | |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Quote:
Glenn |
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01-14-2023, 07:12 AM | #12 | |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Quote:
The rod is pretty simple. I had to figure a good offset from the vacuum switch so that the rod would go behind my headers and from there it is a straight shot to the clutch arm bracket. Last edited by glennpm; 01-14-2023 at 08:33 AM. |
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01-14-2023, 08:31 AM | #13 | |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Quote:
My old notes: This from Rumbleseat: "REAR END CENTER SECTION REQUIREMENTS WHEN ADDING A COLUMBIA OVERDRIVE. The width of the rear end from backing plate to backing plate varies according to the year of the rear end. Nothing new here. The newer they are, the wider they are. Usually it’s the axles and housings where all the added width is. But late ‘32 through ‘34 rear ends have narrower center sections. And these narrower center sections will not accept a Columbia made for ‘35 and newer cars (only late ‘32 through ‘34 Columbias fit in these older center sections). However, axle housings all have the same bolt pattern and bolt up to any center section. If you’re adding a Columbia from a ‘35 and newer to your ‘34, you’ll have to change to a ’35 through ‘48 center section (they’re all the same). Understand center section includes the spider gears, the ring, and the pinion gears for this discussion. But when you go to the later center section, the ‘34 and older axles will each be too short by about 3/8". Solution is to cut off the ends of two longer axles to the correct length. Machine threads, axle key slot, and taper in each axle. None of this makes much difference if it’s going in a high-boy and you don’t mind the tires being some distance from the body. One other thing, keep in mind the mounting and angle of the rear radius rods since they vary according to the year of car. I found it’s easier to graft a section of the inner overdrive housing to an outer section of the ‘34 right side housing. This retains the original radius rod mounting, angles, shocks, and brakes. Just shorten the stock right housing so the right housing with the overdrive housing is exactly the same length as the original housing was. Be sure to carefully line the two housings up so the radius rods etc. are all located and indexed properly. Cost to do this is usually about $100 and can be done by any competent machine shop." I also had to grind notches in the 40 spring. I also removed some of the 1940 leaves. This link is helpful too. https://builda32.blogspot.com/2012/0...ng-fit-32.html The torque tube and axle must be shortened. After the welding, I had a good machine shop with a long bed face off the rear flange to make both ends of the torque tube parallel. It was about 1/32" canted. Glenn Last edited by glennpm; 01-15-2023 at 07:36 AM. |
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01-14-2023, 01:08 PM | #14 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Glenn,
Are you activating the speedometer changer and the shift valve with one pull knob? |
01-14-2023, 01:10 PM | #15 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Yes I am, using the Columbia knob and cables.
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01-14-2023, 01:12 PM | #16 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Glenn,
Not to be a critic, the plastic tye wrap on your hoses in post 12 has to go. |
01-14-2023, 01:25 PM | #17 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
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01-14-2023, 02:19 PM | #18 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
My 36 coupe came with a 36 Columbia installed in the car. Within a few short months the shifting system became very troublesome, the differential was also a problem.
Doing some research I found that a '42-48 Columbia would bolt right into my car with a few very simple modifications. I used the stock '36 driveshaft and torque tube with the '36 banjo assembly, 47-48 Columbia axle housing/ and housing axle right side with 47-48 axle on left side. Using '37-38 radius bars completed the assembly using all stock bolts except where the radius bars bolted to the torque, an alignment problem for the radius bar bolt was solved by putting a longer bolt with a 3/4" spacer nut between the radius bars and the torque tube mount. The shifting problem was solved by utilizing the 47-48 head mounting plate, harvesting the mount portion for the clutch safety switch witch was mount in its original position on the lower portion of the left head and to the clutch peddle via the stock attachment rod assembly. I then harvested the vacuum/electric portion of the head mound attaching same to the left side inner fender panel. I installed the SW speedo shift assembly inside of the car on the cowl. extended the small vacuum hoses into the car along with the short cable assembly to complete the installation. I used the stock Columbia frame tubesthat came from the donor car.. The whole assembly has worked with no problems for over 70 years. See attached pix.
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01-14-2023, 02:26 PM | #19 | |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Quote:
Although I'm not a "hot rod guy", I so appreciate work well done... keep it up
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01-14-2023, 03:25 PM | #20 |
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Re: Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932
Hey Glen: Thanks for all the information. One thing stuck out to me - you mentioned using the early 'B' style rear end? Why not the late 32 (scalloped torque tube) - which is what I have? They are pretty hard to come by, but from everything I know are a lot stronger than a 'B' style rear. Thoughts?
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