T 5 5 speed VS Mitchell Transmission with overdrive

[gary678*]

To a4me: The adapter is in my friend's car and he purchased it from Valley Machine Shop as I indicated above. His brake performance is now excellent as all four wheels lock-up when braking. The two of us installed it with some difficulty because of a very tight fit, but the effort was worth it...$325 well spent!

[Chris in WNC]

Personal opinion, I would NEVER consider a transmission setup that required modifying the frame or brake linkage.

Have had Mitchell ODs in several cars and love them.

[Gene F]

I have a Borg-Warner overdrive. I got it from llloyd Young. Shame he passed away. Good guy to know.

[wuga]

I own a 31 RPU that I purchased as a runner in Jan/2022. It is by no means pretty, but it is beautiful to me. It is all stock except for modifications on the engine. The motor was rebuilt with insert bearings and a 6.1 head. I have since added Red’s headers, an Ansen downdraft with a Stromberg 97, an FSI distributor and a 12V upgrade. This winter I will add a set of Posie’s springs with reversed eye and 16” wheels. But to this thread. I was unhappy with the ability to use the motor with the stock transmission so I looked at options. The first was the Mitchell which I felt had several cons: price, no synchro to first gear and a separate shifter for the over drive. I have several other vintage vehicles into which I have installed a T5 and have never had a regret. I started searching out available pieces to aid in the swap and this is what I came up with. A 30 lb flywheel from Burtz, a V8 clutch from Speedway, a bell housing from Vintage Precision, a mid 80s T5 from a Jeep (transfer case removed) and a closed drive shaft adaptor from Kato Kings. I have a AA bell housing and a S10 4x4 transmission, but I believe the package I have assembled is the shortest possible setup available. According to measurements I have taken, I will only have to notch the cross member and that I can deal with. The setup is complete and sitting on the bench awaiting install this winter. I agonized over the rear brakes until I read about the adaptor mentioned in the above posts. I was going to cut and lower mine, but to have one that is done properly allays my fears. I will shorten the drive shaft and the wish bones and figure out how to mount the e-brake.
Warren

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[Bruce of MN]

Originally Posted by wuga

closed drive shaft adaptor from Kato Kings.

I searched for Kato Kings and couldn't find anything, do you have contact info?

[wuga]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...o-kings.18608/
This link will take you to him on the HAMB. Go to start a conversation and send him a message. I bought the shifter as well and have since heard a complaint about it. I have yet to test it to determine the validity of that statement. you can also try him at this #
five zero seven three eight two nine four one five
Warren

[RoadsterJohn]

For what it's worth...I've never heard anyone complain about their Mitchell OD.

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by a4me

Dave, can you please elaborate what sort of issues you experienced?

In a stock Model A, the centerline of the brake cross shaft is perfectly in alignment with the centerline of the universal joint housing. This allows the rear end to travel up and down without effecting the application of the brakes.
With the open driveshaft T-5 conversion kit I purchased installed, per the instructions, the position of the brake cross shaft changed. It no longer was in alignment with the universal joint housing. When the rear axle was moving up and down, the brakes were alternately engaged or the braking force lessened due to the pivot point difference. It was dangerous as you could not get the brake rod length correct where it could work at the extremes of the rear spring travel.
Update: The connecting point for the front of the radius rods moved down with the conversion. This increased the effect I describe.
Hope you can picture it in your mind.
Good Day!

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

In a stock Model A, the centerline of the brake cross shaft is perfectly in alignment with the centerline of the universal joint housing. This allows the rear end to travel up and down without effecting the application of the brakes.
With the T-5 conversion kit I purchased installed, per the instructions, the position of the brake cross shaft changed. It no longer was in alignment with the universal joint housing. When the rear axle was moving up and down, the brakes were alternately engaged or the braking force lessened due to the pivot point difference. It was dangerous as you could not get the brake rod length correct where it could work at the extremes of the rear spring travel.
Hope you can picture it in your mind.
Good Day!

Good explanation Dave.

[old31]

Besides Dave, has anyone had issues with the brakes and a T5?

[jeepguy1948]

I should have provided this information in my original post. In addition to the ‘28 RPU I also own a ‘48 Willys CJ2A Jeep. The Jeep trans is a 3 speed with synchros 2&3 but not 1st. To this I have added an overdrive, so what I have on the Willys is exactly the same as what the A would have with a Mitchell synchro trans with overdrive. The simple truth is that between the lack of 1st gear synchro and the 2 sticks it is just plain too much for my wife to cope with so despite that set up getting a lot of love that is not going to cut it for me. I have decided to go with the 5 speed although it looks like the 4 speed would be a good choice as well. I have hydraulic brakes so dealing with brake rods and shafts is not a problem for me. Thanks to everybody for their input!

[Y-Blockhead]

Jeepguy, Not trying to talk you into the Mitchell, just wanted to point out that with the Mitchell O/D you do have synchro first, even with the Stock Model A trans.

You put the Mitchell in neutral then downshift, then put the Mitchell back in gear. The Mitchell O/D is synchronized. Works like a charm, altho your wife would still have to deal with the two shifters.

Just thought I would point that out in case someone else didn't know.

[wuga]

I am not slagging Mitchell products. They are perfect for the persons that wants to maintain a stock appearing drivetrain and does not want to alter driveshaft etc. I live in Canada and for me to bring in the Mitchell trany and O/D was going to cost about CDN$10K whereas I have only spent about CDN$2.5K for the rebuilt T5 and adaptors. I can easily deal with the shortened driveshaft and wishbones. The other consideration was the limited 2 year guarantee considering that I might not even drive the car the first year. As for the brake shaft from Eddie Pruett, he tells me he has never had a complaint from any customer which makes sense since none of the actuator arms get moved, only the center coupling section.
Warren

[jeepguy1948]

Blockhead; thanks for that info about OD in neutral.I tried that with the Willys when I first installed the OD and it did not work (and the OD in the Willys does have a neutral position) I would assume the difference is that the Mitchell is in the driveline so it completely disconnects the trans from the rear wheels in neutral. The Willys OD however is in the transfer case.

[Ranchero50]

Originally Posted by jeepguy1948

Blockhead; thanks for that info about OD in neutral.I tried that with the Willys when I first installed the OD and it did not work (and the OD in the Willys does have a neutral position) I would assume the difference is that the Mitchell is in the driveline so it completely disconnects the trans from the rear wheels in neutral. The Willys OD however is in the transfer case.

One thing to note, Ford really didn't want you to downshift, especially not into first unless you were all but stopped. Mine lugs down to 15mph in third and second to below walking speed. They'll both upshift if you give the flywheel a couple seconds to spool down before sliding them into gear. Second gear at 10 mph, third at 15mph. About two Mississippi's between clutch in and out which is about the same as double clutching.