Replacing Lighting Wiring Harness

[sconnors]

Plan on replacing my lighting wiring harness on my 1930 CCPU this weekend. Ordered the harness, light switch body and other parts from Snyder's. Anyone have any advice, tips, tricks, I'd really appreciate the benefit of your experience.
Thanks as always
Scott

[Mitch//pa]

the new light switch body's suck mostly where the bail wire clips onto the housing.
if you can reuse the old one....

watch the horseshoe clip that holds the light rod doesn't fall out and get lost

disconnect battery before working on it

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

the new light switch body's suck mostly where the bail wire clips onto the housing.
if you can reuse the old one....

watch the horseshoe clip that holds the light rod doesn't fall out and get lost

disconnect battery before working on it

Mitch,
Thanks, good to know. Mine is still in pretty decent shape and I think I can re-use it.

[DANA BIZZELL]

Mitch, I just replaced every wire on my 31 coupe, had to remove starter to get steering box out to move it up under the generator. The light switch rod was about 46" long and needed room were rod wound not hit head liner. If you replace horn wire rap wet rag around insulator and spray bottle to cool it off after soldering wire end. i would solder all ends. c clip goes in recess on spider. Some don't like fuse i would use one. If your light switch is good I would use it. please excuse spelling.
Thanks
Dana

[harleytoprock]

The stamped steel repro spyder that I have does not have the needed recess to keep the c clip in. I had to do some welding and machining tricks to correct. My switch housing also fit too loose in bracket collar that mounts to the bottom of the steering box with two bolts. I could shake the switch housing back and forth and this caused problems. The quick remedy was wrapping the switch housing with shim stock to get a snug fit. Crappy repro parts can be a pain sometimes. If your housing is original and in good shape, I would just reuse with the new harness.

[sconnors]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by harleytoprock

The stamped steel repro spyder that I have does not have the needed recess to keep the c clip in. I had to do some welding and machining tricks to correct. My switch housing also fit too loose in bracket collar that mounts to the bottom of the steering box with two bolts. I could shake the switch housing back and forth and this caused problems. The quick remedy was wrapping the switch housing with shim stock to get a snug fit. Crappy repro parts can be a pain sometimes. If your housing is original and in good shape, I would just reuse with the new harness.

Good to know! I did order a new spider clip, and spring for the horn rod. My housing is in pretty good shape so I may end up using that. I read that some of the repo parts sold by Snyder's were getting better. I guess that doesn't go for the switch housing.
All very good information to know!!

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by DANA BIZZELL

Mitch, I just replaced every wire on my 31 coupe, had to remove starter to get steering box out to move it up under the generator. The light switch rod was about 46" long and needed room were rod wound not hit head liner. If you replace horn wire rap wet rag around insulator and spray bottle to cool it off after soldering wire end. i would solder all ends. c clip goes in recess on spider. Some don't like fuse i would use one. If your light switch is good I would use it. please excuse spelling.
Thanks
Dana

Hi Dana,
i have been following your threads good job , i am glad its coming together nicely.

[DANA BIZZELL]

Mike, If horn/light switch in steering wheel has play you may need copper bushing. head light connections is another possible problem.
Thanks
Dana

[ericr]

be prepared to expect that the "clicks" on the detents don't necessarily all function exactly the same.
Also study the spider end of the light switch to make sure you are inserting the correct slots into the spider....viewed from the spider side, the light switch has an odd design that doesn't fit one's intuition about lining up.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by ericr

be prepared to expect that the "clicks" on the detents don't necessarily all function exactly the same.
Also study the spider end of the light switch to make sure you are inserting the correct slots into the spider....viewed from the spider side, the light switch has an odd design that doesn't fit one's intuition about lining up.

From what I've read the spider needs to slide onto the horn rod at 6 and 12 while the headlight switch on the steering wheel is at 6.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by sconnors

From what I've read the spider needs to slide onto the horn rod at 6 and 12 while the headlight switch on the steering wheel is at 6.

That's correct. After you install the switch and have the bail wire holding it in position, you can run the wire to the brake switch and taillight, and run the harness to the horn and headlights. Now with the harness layed out start by connecting the brake switch, then use a test light between the battery post and cable to check for a short. Then connect the taillight and repeat the check for a draw. Do the same for the horn and each headlamp.

Using this method you will locate the problem right away (if there is one) instead of wondering where it is, then tearing all the connections apart.