1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[sugarmaker]

Ford folks,
This is way off topic, but somehow pertains to general repairs and paint work that could be used even on Ford items.
So I had two items that needed attention, a storage cabinet and a old Hobart mixer. The cabinet had some surface rust and the base had a weak spot. I reinforced the base with some scrap steel. Sanding and scuffing just to clean and prep for a coat of new paint. Nothing real special here. I chose the Industrial Acrylic Enamel with some reducer and hardener added. A quart of battle ship gray for both projects.
Good respirator used, as this stuff is not good for you.
The Hobart needed a new coat of paint too. It had been in a school probably in the late 40's? I have had it for 10 years. It had a couple layers of old paint, so the DA and die grinder with scotch brite pads, smoothed out the bumps and nicks.
It has been a while since I had painted anything, so its good to practice a little and see if equipment is ready?
Harbor Freight HVLP gun to apply the paint.
Before:


After:


Before:




After:


Oh yea we got a few runs drips and errors. But this is fine for this work and a coat of paint hides a multitude of sins! I just love how this stuff is ready to use in 24 hours! Assembly will happen today as the temp is in the teens, way to cold to do much maple stuff outside!

Going to order some stainless feet from McMaster Carr for the Hobart to keep it up a little.
Also similar feet for the air compressor.

Regards,
Chris

[51504bat]

Don't think of it as runs, drips, and errors - just signing your name. Sort of like a flathead not leaking oil - just marking its spot.

[sugarmaker]

Ford folks,
I did get back to the shop and took on a small project on the 32 truck. I installed the new rubber strip at the bottom of the drivers door. Now maybe there is some magic trick but I didn't find one. A little soap for lube then worked it in about 1/8 inch at a time buy deforming the lips of the rubber seal, and using my thumb nail to push the upper lip under and into, the metal channel. I would call the technique "brute force and awkwardness". But it is in and it seals up the door much better.
Started to remove the tattered ragged old wind lacing on the drivers side door opening. Also removed the drivers side kick panel. it is a covered cardboard. about 80% of it is intact, enough I should be able to use as a pattern. I was going to get new ones made in the same material as the seats. I know its not original.
Behind the kick panel I found the grease pencil mark of a Ford Motor company worker that scribbled "OK" on the inside of the drivers sheet metal! At least that is what I think it says?? Pretty neat. I will try to get a picture.

The passengers side kick panel will be a little tougher due to the map pocket and the attachment for the spare tire bracket is near the front of that panel.

Regards,
Chris

[Tinker]

Those Harbor Freight HVLP cheap guns are great for spraying primer or expoxy sealer. I like them as you can use them at 10$ and just throw them away when your done. When you are not a pro painter and probably only going to do it once every decade. That said, Believe it has a 1.8mm tip for most. A finer tip, quicker infrequent passes, and better air might help with runs.


Not saying a little better gun isn't a bad thing. Be safe! good automotive paints include heavy metals.


As mentioned, drips are just an artistic expression. Think that was Warhol. Practice makes perfect too.

[Tinker]

Good clean constant air will help. That compressor you have will feed enough air to paint well.

[sugarmaker]

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Tinker, folks,
Most of the signature runs were my fault. Applying too much paint in a area. I only bought a quart of paint and was trying to get some coverage in one coat.
Moving over to the maple syrup production. Putting up some gravity tubing systems this afternoon.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Ford Barners,
Couple shots of potential door repairs. Maybe someday?
You may be able to see the faint white chalk marks on the door. A cut line would be 1/2 inch below those. The patch panel as designed is for a lap joint, with the new panel to be under the old door skin by the 1/2 inch. my friend John that does more of this type of work than me suggested this joint should be a butt joint with some gap for full penetration?






Here is the seal on the lower drivers door:


Started putting up sap tubing today. Sap may be running next week!
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,


Your friend John's advice is sound.

[Zeke3]

There is a You Tube video by Fitzee's Fabrications showing how to repair the bottom of a door skin. The unique thing, at least to me, is that Fitzee uses the old metal to support the new panel during the welding process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MPykdZF9YU

[al's28/33]

Chris, keep practicing with junk spare parts to cut, weld, fill and sand then paint and scuff them up and see how close to original you can get. This might be the way to go with those doors. If anyone can pull it off, YOU CAN.
Looking more closely at how thin that 90 year old door skin is, it won't take much for some one, some day, by pure accident, to poke a hole clean thru or get it snagged on a piece of clothing and then you've got a real mess. Maybe this will be next year's winter project.....?

[sugarmaker]

Guys, and gals,
Thanks for the support on the potential 32 truck door repair. I would like to tackle this when the time is right. I think it would be a good repair for the ragged old truck! I will watch the video and try to learn some things! I can stick stuff together.
Regards.
Chris

[Firepower flyer]

Hi Chris
I've been following along since your first post and have enjoyed all of them including non Ford related projects, keep them coming. I agree with the idea of preserving the truck as much as possible, if it was mine a would probably go with repairing the door bottoms correctly, then patina them the best you or someone else can. I would agree with your buddy, I'm not a big fan of doing lap joints on repairs I perfer butt joint. Put me on the list of when the maple syrup is ready!!!

[sugarmaker]

Firepower,
Thanks for the words of support.
On maple, friend Dale S. and I just finished getting tubing up, for my small 625 tap operation.
Regards,
Chris

[bobH]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Chris,


Your friend John's advice is sound.

Friend of mine (now deceased), who was a professional restorer, was doing the door bottoms on a 41 Merc convertible... what he dealt with, is once the old rotten material was removed, it was quite difficult to 'recreate' , with 'floppy' old upper metal, and no reference for where to put the new metal. 'Course, he had the second door to look at, and copy. And, he did do the butt weld, but while assembling and fitting, he removed the 'lap', but left 'tabs', perhaps spaced around 6 inches, so he could use a 'lapped tab' to fasten the new material in place, while he butt welded the new panel. After the new panel was secure, he cut off the tabs, and finished with the butt weld. Just a passing thought. (BTW, tig weld is what he did.)

[sugarmaker]

Guys, and gals,
Thanks for the support on the potential 32 truck door repair. I would like to tackle this when the time is right. I think it would be a good repair for the ragged old truck! I will watch the video and try to learn some things! I can stick stuff together.
Watched the video. It was great! Learned a bunch. Like pro bowling he makes it look easy!
bobH,
I have never had a lesson in Tig welding, but I am sure it would be much more controllable then my old Mig? Yes the floppy old metal door skin being supported after cut off comes to mind for sure. Your friend had some good skills.

On maple we may tap the sugarbush in the next few days. Supposed to rain tomorrow. Hope the snow goes off slowly to reduce any flooding.

Regards.
Chris

[GB SISSON]

I love the idea about leaving tabs, then cutting them off. That is what they call 'working smarter'. Folded edges and doubled up seams lead to you know what.....

[sugarmaker]

Gary,
Thanks for the support! The door repair is just something that, if I do it I would like to not mess it up too bad!
Cleaning in the sugarhouse today. To rainy to tap trees. Maybe tomorrow??
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Going off topic!
In the "getting ready mode" for making Maple syrup. Used the jib crane to pull the 325 gallon poly leg tank into the shop. lots of scrubbing and rinsing. It is ready to be lifted and set into the pickup:


This is the pumping system for gathering sap. The barrel components and pumps are stacked in a carrier hanging off the truck receiver. The pumps plug into the receptacles for trailers.
The portion of the barrel with the blue hose, has the remote pump attached, that I take to each station to pump the sap back to the truck. The pump is a RULE brand,12 volt, 2000 GPH unit.
The bottom portion of the barrel has 3700 GPH RULE 12 volt pump with a float switch and moves the sap 5 feet up into the 325 gallon tank on the truck. If this all looks unusual and home made, you have come to the right place! I move around 8000 gallons of raw sap per year with it.




Testing the big pump. All good ready to go:


The red unit goes into the back of the truck receiver. It was going into the paint shop at that time:


I was hanging tubing a couple days ago with friend Dale S., he caught me actually doing not much! I tapped 200 taps last night. Will try to get the remaining 400+ done tomorrow. Then if we get some warmer weather, the sap may run??


The 32.... Well I have had several folks visit, and did show and tell. Most every one likes it!
I am going to the neighbors in the morning to have a couple black walnut side boards planned for the bed. Hoping they can also do the signage for our Maple and Honey business on them.

Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
The prototype side boards on the bed of the 32 dump:


Then planned smooth with the stakes cut for the pockets:




May add a filler at the front corner:


Text will be added to the sideboards in some color??
Regards,
Chris

[GB SISSON]

I try to find plain black carriage bolts and square nuts for the side boards. I stay away from glossy varnish and stainless or cad plated fastners too. You have gone this far with your 'restoration' in an amazing fashion. This is of course my opinion, but you might consider leaving the circular saw marks in those walnut planks as well. The 'farmer' who had his neighbor mill the planks didn't want to spend the extra $1.60 to run them through his surface planer. ... Why? so those 1" planks could be 3/4"? They look awesome, by the way!