Cracked Clutch Fork

[ursus]

I need to replace a clutch fork that has failed because of a crack around the pin that holds it to the shaft. Is it possible to perform the replacement without having to pull the engine?

Also, I have a clutch fork from an early Ford V-8 (it is numbered 48-7515 while the Model A fork is A-7515). Can the V-8 fork be used in a Model-A?

[MAG]

Failure in that area (broken/loose pin) was written up in the Service Bulletins #351.
Doubt you can replace the parts without pulling the engine. My preference is to pull the transmission. It is easier to do the job on the work bench. Can't say if the forks will interchange. Compare the 2 when you get the old one out. The pin size was changed from 3/16" tp 5/16". Service Bulletins say there is insufficient stock on the original fork to allow resizing for the new larger pin.

[Tom Endy]

You definitely will need to remove the bell housing from the car for this type of repair.
The attached article may help. A black & white version appeared in the restorer in 2010. While you have the bell housing out is a good time to replace the pedal shaft, clutch release shaft and the two bushings in the housing. The suppliers also offer an after-market release shaft lever that will not crack and is slightly longer for better clutch leverage.

The fork used on the 32 and later cars is slightly longer.

https://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-cont...or-Version.pdf

Tom Endy

[ursus]

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

You definitely will need to remove the bell housing from the car for this type of repair.
The attached article may help. A black & white version appeared in the restorer in 2010. While you have the bell housing out is a good time to replace the pedal shaft, clutch release shaft and the two bushings in the housing. The suppliers also offer an after-market release shaft lever that will not crack and is slightly longer for better clutch leverage.

The fork used on the 32 and later cars is slightly longer.

https://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-cont...or-Version.pdf

Tom Endy

Tom, your second article mentions the following:

"The above photo shows two A7515-B forks with
the original 3/16” holes. Note there is ample
material to drill the holes out to 5/16”

Your first article appears to depict the installation of the early keyed fork (A7515-B) on a later shaft. Somebody has offered me an early fork from a broken bell housing so am I OK to bore out the keyed fork to 5/16" and install that with the larger pin? Note that the A7515-C fork has a built up area of reinforcement between the forks so I wonder about the chance that the early fork would be prone to break . Thanks!

[Tom Endy]

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Originally Posted by ursus

Tom, your second article mentions the following:

"The above photo shows two A7515-B forks with
the original 3/16” holes. Note there is ample
material to drill the holes out to 5/16”

Your first article appears to depict the installation of the early keyed fork (A7515-B) on a later shaft. Somebody has offered me an early fork from a broken bell housing so am I OK to bore out the keyed fork to 5/16" and install that with the larger pin? Note that the A7515-C fork has a built up area of reinforcement between the forks so I wonder about the chance that the early fork would be prone to break . Thanks!

Bratton's antique Auto sell the early shaft with the woodruff keys. However, both the fork and the arm are attached using woodruff keys.

I have never drilled out an early fork, it was easier to find a later one. Contact Berts in Denver or Arizona Vintage Ford. They probably have the later fork.

Tom Endy