The Ford Barn

James Rogers · 10-31-2014, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racer32

Thanks. That's what I tried before, but never got it to stick well. Will try cleaning more and get good, bright metal at the studs. I think contamination of weld has been causing my issue. May also try different washers with larger OD.

Your problem is probably caused by the block cast iron heat sinking the temp out and the weld not penetrating. Try heating the area around the stud and the stud slightly orange and immediately lay a plain steel washer with a 1/2 inch hole on the stud and weld it as fast as you can. Weld an old clean head nut to the washer and use an impact to remove it. Works for me every time.

James Rogers · 10-31-2014, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

please remember that a flux core weld is a very weak weld. Please consider upgrading to a gas-shielded system. All it takes is one bottle of argon-CO2 available at any welding supply such as AirGas. Google welding supply for your local area there will be several of them.

Also, you can not usually get flux core wire less than .030. This size is too big for what you want to do. You need to use .023 or .025 diam. wire with a bottle. With the right equipment this is an easy job.

If you can weld with flux core you can certainly MIG weld with a bottle. I promise you that you will never go back. Flux core is a technology left over from ancient Egypt in the tombs of the pyramids when they tried to weld wood together. At best it barely gets you by to weld fence posts.

You can also practice. Take a handful of 1/2" nuts, and some washers, and practice on a piece of 1/8 inch sheet metal or scrap laying around until you get the knack of welding in the hole of a washer, and around the outside of the nut

Gonna need a set of regulator gauges and the tubing to connect it. The bottle and regulator and tubing is about a 200$ upgrade.

racer32 · 11-01-2014, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James Rogers

Gonna need a set of regulator gauges and the tubing to connect it. The bottle and regulator and tubing is about a 200$ upgrade.

Welder came with them, I just haven't bought a bottle of gas yet. I'm not a fan of the flux core, but it's what I have in the shop right now. Gotta save my pennies for a while.

Dodge · 11-03-2014, 02:59 AM

The washer and welded nut trick works pretty good, I heat it up and then hit it with water,
it works very well. That said I have gone to drilling in the mill if I have more than one
to do in a block. I had a Desoto block the owner had tried to remove his own studs and
had broken six of them off in the block. If you use a mill with a DRO (digital readout)
you can accurately hit every stud. I use an end mill to flatten the broken stud off.
Then center drill the stud, then hit it with an end mill to get the stud out.
I did all six in about a half hour.

11-03-2014, 02:59 AM	#44
Dodge Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Sonoma, CA. Posts: 1,496	Re: Broken head studs The washer and welded nut trick works pretty good, I heat it up and then hit it with water, it works very well. That said I have gone to drilling in the mill if I have more than one to do in a block. I had a Desoto block the owner had tried to remove his own studs and had broken six of them off in the block. If you use a mill with a DRO (digital readout) you can accurately hit every stud. I use an end mill to flatten the broken stud off. Then center drill the stud, then hit it with an end mill to get the stud out. I did all six in about a half hour.