Babbitting service

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Who in the Minneapolis / St Paul MN area does BABBITTING if you can also throw out a phone number or PM me or email (remove spaces) j ganley @ lake land dot ws

[ABento]

Not in the Mn area but I've been talking with Rod Gaffery in SD about doing some for a White engine, he has been recently begun using a spray method and has had good success, I have his number at my shop if you would like it.

[wrndln]

I am not sure if anyone does babbitting in the Twin Cities are any more. RiteWay used to do it, but they went out of business many years ago. A fellow near Rochester (Elmer LaBrash I think his name was, also used to do babbiting, but he retire several years ago. There is a fellow in Clare, Iowa that still does babbiting. His name is Kohnke and his phone number is: 515-546-4551. It seems like most people are going to inserted bearings. There is a fellow in our model A club in the Twin Cities that does inserted engines. I believe he has done over 100 of them. His name is Dave Gerold and lives in Jordon, MN, just south of the Twin Cities. His phone number is: 952 290 3630
Rusty Nelson

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Thank you for the reply, what closes the door on repair is the cost of shipping and engine I will give Dave Gerold a call.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Wisconsinjimmy

Thank you for the reply, what closes the door on repair is the cost of shipping and engine I will give Dave Gerold a call.

If you decide to have Dave do the work, you could arrange to go to one of our clinic meetings and give the block to Dave. Clinics are the 3rd Thursday of the month, with a couple exceptions.

[Wisconsinjimmy]

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Spoke with Dave this morning and got a price, now I have to send it to the war department=8')

[PC/SR]

Are you sure you need babbitting? Have you inspected and measured it yet?

[Wisconsinjimmy]

I am waiting for my son to get home, how much side movement is permissible on the con rods?

[PC/SR]

.006-.012.

[Rowdy]

Its the main bearing clearance and condition I would worry about first as that is the foundation of a healthy, quiet happy engine. Rod

[tbirdtbird]

let us know how you make out

[tbirdtbird]

Oh, and by the way, maintain the integrity of the shim packs!

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Sure hope these have a little bit of life in them

[James Rogers]

Looks like they have been adjusted some. How many shims were under each cap on each side?

[Wisconsinjimmy]

No shims what you see is what came out

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

Agree, you may not need any babbitting. Mark the main and rod caps as to location and orientation, I think you already know how important this is, so that the caps can be replaced exactly as they came off. The caps are removeable without hurting the babbit. Inspect the babbited surface, and post pix so we can look and help. If the journals and babbit is good you will be in very good shape. Do not try to remove the babbit itself from the caps, rods, or block, it is bonded on. Take it one step at a time, go slow.

Notice the dippers on the rod caps: when properly installed the open side faces the passenger side of the motor.

Also the dippers face the hole on each side of the rod that is clostest to the part line.

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Shims where would they be between the rod and the cap?

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Mr. W. J., What is the Black thing on your two pictures at the bottom of your pictures that makes it look like the side of the cap is missing?

[dlshady]

Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting

Mr. W. J., What is the Black thing on your two pictures at the bottom of your pictures that makes it look like the side of the cap is missing?

Looks like a shadow from the lip of the drawer or toolbox that the rod cap is propped up in. Quite the optical illusion!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting

Mr. W. J., What is the Black thing on your two pictures at the bottom of your pictures that makes it look like the side of the cap is missing?

Yes, I was wondering the same thing?

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting

Mr. W. J., What is the Black thing on your two pictures at the bottom of your pictures that makes it look like the side of the cap is missing?

I see in one of the catalogs rods are available with new Babbitt what needs to be done to get them ready to put on a crankshaft?

[Wisconsinjimmy]

My post got lost in cyber land, the pic of the caps has a shadow cast over them if you look close you can see the bearing edge.

[Dave in MN]

The crankshaft rod journals need to be ground first and then the proper babbitt rods ordered to fit. If you are going to go with inserts for the mains, both the main journals and the rod journals are ground at the same time.

[PC/SR]

The oil grooves are too deep, but that is not fatal. See Kohnke's pics for how they should be done.
I wonder about the little missing chips in the lower pic if that is not the start of a crack/separation, but maybe not.
The shims are between the rod and cap in Kohnke's pics. They are shown in the lower left corner of his last pic.
New rods, whether from a catalog, or anywhere else, have to fit the crankshaft. You need to measure the journals, and get rods that fit. Clearance is .015". Since you have already talked to a babbitt guy, I would show him your rods and talk to him some more.
How do the mains look?

[AlfinCT]

What is the spray method of babbitting? What are it's asvantages? Can it be used to build up worn babbitt and save stripping the old babbitt out?

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

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Originally Posted by dlshady

Looks like a shadow from the lip of the drawer or toolbox that the rod cap is propped up in. Quite the optical illusion!

Thanks, Herm.

[colin1928]

Originally Posted by PC/SR

The oil grooves are too deep, but that is not fatal. See Kohnke's pics for how they should be done.
I wonder about the little missing chips in the lower pic if that is not the start of a crack/separation, but maybe not.
The shims are between the rod and cap in Kohnke's pics. They are shown in the lower left corner of his last pic.
New rods, whether from a catalog, or anywhere else, have to fit the crankshaft. You need to measure the journals, and get rods that fit. Clearance is .015". Since you have already talked to a babbitt guy, I would show him your rods and talk to him some more.
How do the mains look?

Clearance is .0015

[gilitos]

Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting

Also the dippers face the hole on each side of the rod that is clostest to the part line.

Hey, Herm, those rods in post #16 look really familiar! They powered me to work this morning and the motor runs fabulous. Thanks for a great job.

[Wisconsinjimmy]

After some serious thought and discussion with my bride we are going to sell the car, this model a thing is just way over my check book. Again I thank all of you for your help.
Jim

[PC/SR]

"Clearance is .0015"

Colin--Thank You. I was wonderin' what that noise was.

[ABento]

When the OP said babbiting my little mind whet directly to inserts, as I've been in discussion about making some new bearings for White engines, and Rod had said he was now spraying babbit on the shells, I know nothing other than he says its been working real well.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by gilitos

Hey, Herm, those rods in post #16 look really familiar! They powered me to work this morning and the motor runs fabulous. Thanks for a great job.

Well, what a coincidence Giles, Happy Motoring. Herm.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Spraying Babbitt.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zU2JeURtdZ4

[tbirdtbird]

sure is beautiful workmanship, Herm...

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting

Well, what a coincidence Giles, Happy Motoring. Herm.

Nice locking job Herm

[Duffy1]

Are you suppose to take the notch in the babbit all the way to the edge of the babbit ?

[Ross/Kzoo]

Is spraying babbitt a form of "metallizing"?

[tbirdtbird]

"Are you suppose to take the notch in the babbit all the way to the edge of the babbit ?"

I don't think so, else the oil will not stay in the bearing space, it will just leak out;
but I wish Herm would address this.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by Duffy1

Are you suppose to take the notch in the babbit all the way to the edge of the babbit ?

I am not sure what you call the notch, the oil groove, or the oil well, but in any case that is the way it should be.

The oil well which is the oil gully, is on the part line, and the diagonal groove is the oil spreader groove. That groove is fed from the oil wells and should be on the far ends of each oil well, and no the oil wells do not go clear to the ends of the bearings and yes the oil would run out. They should stop about a 1/4, to 3/8's from both ends.

If you don't have the oil groove out to the ends of the oil wells, the two ends of the crank bearing does not get wiped with oil like having a cap or block with No oil grooves in that area.

These two Diagrams I hope show where the oil would wipe, and where it would not. The first one is right, the second one is wrong. The X's are where you would not get a continuous oil wipe.



Thanks Herm.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

"Are you suppose to take the notch in the babbit all the way to the edge of the babbit ?"

I don't think so, else the oil will not stay in the bearing space, it will just leak out;
but I wish Herm would address this.

Well Mr. T Bird, I dug around and found two wore out rear main caps that are Ford factory.

The first one is the model "A" , worn, but you can plainly see the oil well, and spreader groove. Notice where they are laided.

Now the second cap a Ford Factory Model "B" cap, with the oil wells and oil spreader groove showen where they were put. the short groove that is in the middle is not factory, as somebody really thought they were going to cause that rear main to stop leaking. That kind of stuff never works.

So when you any time move the ends of the oil spreader groove in, you are taking oil away from the area you could have oiled.

When the Running clearance gets to great, that is what makes the oil run out a bearing.

Thanks, Herm.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

Is spraying babbitt a form of "metallizing"?

Seems to me it would be Ross, just different metal.

Thanks, Herm.

[jrelliott]

Herm, you surely do it the correct way. The work looks excellent. Think I have some rods you did for my engine as Elmer LeBrash in Rochester did the babbiting and someone in Iowa supplied the rods. Byers Machine shop in Rochester did the machining. This was about 8 years ago that engine was rebuilt and it runs great. Remember the class Elmer did on babbiting about using a tool that looked like an ear of corn to work the babbit after it was poured and before it was bored to match the crankshaft for mains and rods.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by jrelliott

Herm, you surely do it the correct way. The work looks excellent. Think I have some rods you did for my engine as Elmer LeBrash in Rochester did the babbiting and someone in Iowa supplied the rods. Byers Machine shop in Rochester did the machining. This was about 8 years ago that engine was rebuilt and it runs great. Remember the class Elmer did on babbiting about using a tool that looked like an ear of corn to work the babbit after it was poured and before it was bored to match the crankshaft for mains and rods.

My problem is I can't remember yesterday. If I seen the rods I would know.

Well maybe if they stay good they are mine, and if they don't I am sure I will have never seen them before. !!

thanks, Herm.