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10-07-2013, 07:59 PM | #21 |
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Re: Babbitting service
I see in one of the catalogs rods are available with new Babbitt what needs to be done to get them ready to put on a crankshaft?
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10-07-2013, 08:03 PM | #22 |
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Re: Babbitting service
My post got lost in cyber land, the pic of the caps has a shadow cast over them if you look close you can see the bearing edge.
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10-07-2013, 08:15 PM | #23 |
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Re: Babbitting service
The crankshaft rod journals need to be ground first and then the proper babbitt rods ordered to fit. If you are going to go with inserts for the mains, both the main journals and the rod journals are ground at the same time.
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10-07-2013, 08:30 PM | #24 |
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Re: Babbitting service
The oil grooves are too deep, but that is not fatal. See Kohnke's pics for how they should be done.
I wonder about the little missing chips in the lower pic if that is not the start of a crack/separation, but maybe not. The shims are between the rod and cap in Kohnke's pics. They are shown in the lower left corner of his last pic. New rods, whether from a catalog, or anywhere else, have to fit the crankshaft. You need to measure the journals, and get rods that fit. Clearance is .015". Since you have already talked to a babbitt guy, I would show him your rods and talk to him some more. How do the mains look? |
10-07-2013, 08:44 PM | #25 |
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Re: Babbitting service
What is the spray method of babbitting? What are it's asvantages? Can it be used to build up worn babbitt and save stripping the old babbitt out?
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10-07-2013, 08:52 PM | #26 |
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Re: Babbitting service
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10-08-2013, 02:12 AM | #27 | |
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Re: Babbitting service
Quote:
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10-08-2013, 09:24 AM | #28 |
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Re: Babbitting service
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10-08-2013, 09:40 AM | #29 |
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Re: Babbitting service
After some serious thought and discussion with my bride we are going to sell the car, this model a thing is just way over my check book. Again I thank all of you for your help.
Jim |
10-08-2013, 10:27 AM | #30 |
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Re: Babbitting service
"Clearance is .0015"
Colin--Thank You. I was wonderin' what that noise was. |
10-08-2013, 10:52 AM | #31 |
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Re: Babbitting service
When the OP said babbiting my little mind whet directly to inserts, as I've been in discussion about making some new bearings for White engines, and Rod had said he was now spraying babbit on the shells, I know nothing other than he says its been working real well.
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10-08-2013, 12:34 PM | #32 |
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Re: Babbitting service
Well, what a coincidence Giles, Happy Motoring. Herm.
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10-08-2013, 12:45 PM | #33 |
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Re: Babbitting service
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10-08-2013, 01:24 PM | #34 |
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Re: Babbitting service
sure is beautiful workmanship, Herm...
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10-08-2013, 01:55 PM | #35 |
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Re: Babbitting service
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10-08-2013, 03:10 PM | #36 |
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Re: Babbitting service
Are you suppose to take the notch in the babbit all the way to the edge of the babbit ?
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10-08-2013, 03:42 PM | #37 |
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Re: Babbitting service
Is spraying babbitt a form of "metallizing"?
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10-08-2013, 04:58 PM | #38 |
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Re: Babbitting service
"Are you suppose to take the notch in the babbit all the way to the edge of the babbit ?"
I don't think so, else the oil will not stay in the bearing space, it will just leak out; but I wish Herm would address this.
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10-08-2013, 05:11 PM | #39 | |
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Re: Babbitting service
Quote:
The oil well which is the oil gully, is on the part line, and the diagonal groove is the oil spreader groove. That groove is fed from the oil wells and should be on the far ends of each oil well, and no the oil wells do not go clear to the ends of the bearings and yes the oil would run out. They should stop about a 1/4, to 3/8's from both ends. If you don't have the oil groove out to the ends of the oil wells, the two ends of the crank bearing does not get wiped with oil like having a cap or block with No oil grooves in that area. These two Diagrams I hope show where the oil would wipe, and where it would not. The first one is right, the second one is wrong. The X's are where you would not get a continuous oil wipe. Thanks Herm. Last edited by Kohnke Rebabbitting; 10-08-2013 at 06:10 PM. |
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10-08-2013, 05:52 PM | #40 | |
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Re: Babbitting service
Quote:
The first one is the model "A" , worn, but you can plainly see the oil well, and spreader groove. Notice where they are laided. Now the second cap a Ford Factory Model "B" cap, with the oil wells and oil spreader groove showen where they were put. the short groove that is in the middle is not factory, as somebody really thought they were going to cause that rear main to stop leaking. That kind of stuff never works. So when you any time move the ends of the oil spreader groove in, you are taking oil away from the area you could have oiled. When the Running clearance gets to great, that is what makes the oil run out a bearing. Thanks, Herm. |
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