Voltage Regulator

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Ok I got it now takes awhile with a froze brain, all the wires horn-lights-hot go on the front terminal of the cut out and nothing goes on the rear terminal, now it was mentioned my light switch is on wrong???

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Bob C, Thanks for the cutaway generator pic, it helps showa LOT of stuff!

Jmeckel, You mentioned the cut out hot wire goes to the starter switch cable. REMEMBER, that wire first goes to the junction box, then makes a loop up through the ammeter, back to the other junction box terminal, THEN down to the starter switch cable. Bill W.

I stole the cutaway picture somebody else posted earlier, maybe Tom W?

Bob

[Purdy Swoft]

Yo brother Bill, You are right. There is a yellow wire that goes from the post on the starter switch and connects to the passenger side post in the terminal box. Then a yellow wire runs from the passenger side post in the terminal box to the passenger side post off the ammeter. A yellow wire with a black tracer runs from the drivers side post of the ammeter out to the drivers side post of the terminal box. Originally there would have been a yellow with black tracer wire that run from the drivers side post of the terminal box to the front terminal of the cutout and this was a hot wire. Running a wire from the cutout to the post on the starter would have the same effect as the yellow with black tracer wire from the drivers side post of the terminal box would if it was still present. this would put the generator in the circuit. If it worked he could just forget the regulator on the firewall. If I was hooking up a three coil box regulator to a model A type generator I would do this. I would connect the ground wire from the field coils to the field terminal on the regulator. I would run a wire from the post on the generator to the arm terminal of the regulator. I would then run a wire from the Bat terminal of the regulator down to the post on the starter switch and that would work. I don't have any experience with a setup like jimmy has pictured. If the generator will motor when a hot wire is touched to the generator post, the easiest thing to do would be to install a good cutout or a can style regulator and forget the other regulator.

[Bob C]

It may be the picture but it looks like the switch needs to be turned
90° to the right.

Bob

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Here is what I think you are trying to explain to me, do I have this right? Also if I ground the test light to the body and with the light switch on and I touch the chrome on the light bucket the test light will come on is this OK?

[Wisconsinjimmy]

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Originally Posted by Bob C

It may be the picture but it looks like the switch needs to be turned
90° to the right.

Bob

Let me ask you this, on the steering column is the light switch all the way up for off?

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Wisconsinjimmy

Darn hope it is not to large, but does this make sense, the screw or terminal on the front of the cutout is where the 6 volts comes in and the back terminal (stud) is where the lights and horn connect? If I use a jumper from the front terminal to the rear terminal I get nothing is this a sign of no good cutout?

The way you have it pictured is correct. The headlamp and horn wires should connect to the front of the cutout. You can either run a wire from the drivers side post in the terminal box to the front of the cutout or a wire from the post on the starter switch to the front of the cutout and it will give the same function.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Wisconsinjimmy

Let me ask you this, on the steering column is the light switch all the way up for off?

The lever should point straight down when the headlamps are off. One click to the left will be on for the park or cowl lamps.You should have two clicks to the right for bright and dim for the headlamps.

[Bob C]

Also if I ground the test light to the body and with the light switch on and I touch the chrome on the light bucket the test light will come on is this OK?

No, sound like the headlight is not grounded properly.

Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Wisconsinjimmy

Here is what I think you are trying to explain to me, do I have this right? Also if I ground the test light to the body and with the light switch on and I touch the chrome on the light bucket the test light will come on is this OK?

NO. it means the headlamps aren't getting a good ground, You probably need to remove the lamp and clean the pivot pockets for each lamp. It may also be a poor ground inside the bucket.

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Ok thanks guys maybe I have a fighting chance with this creature as I need the lights to work to keep the WI State Police happy when they inspect the car for title application. I just hope he does not want to see the frame # as that would will be a major pain.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

Yo brother Bill, You are right. There is a yellow wire that goes from the post on the starter switch and connects to the passenger side post in the terminal box. Then a yellow wire runs from the passenger side post in the terminal box to the passenger side post off the ammeter. A yellow wire with a black tracer runs from the drivers side post of the ammeter out to the drivers side post of the terminal box. Originally there would have been a yellow with black tracer wire that run from the drivers side post of the terminal box to the front terminal of the cutout and this was a hot wire. Running a wire from the cutout to the post on the starter would have the same effect as the yellow with black tracer wire from the drivers side post of the terminal box would if it was still present. this would put the generator in the circuit. If it worked he could just forget the regulator on the firewall. If I was hooking up a three coil box regulator to a model A type generator I would do this. I would connect the ground wire from the field coils to the field terminal on the regulator. I would run a wire from the post on the generator to the arm terminal of the regulator. I would then run a wire from the Bat terminal of the regulator down to the post on the starter switch and that would work. I don't have any experience with a setup like jimmy has pictured. If the generator will motor when a hot wire is touched to the generator post, the easiest thing to do would be to install a good cutout or a can style regulator and forget the other regulator.

Purdy, Buster T. just suggested, since Vermin has a 2 wire generator, if we could find a trick place to "hide" a 3 coil regulator, we could be chargin' SAFELY, without always playing with the 3rd brush or runnin' with the lights on. He also gave me HELL for throwing the chop sticks away when we had Chinese food last week! He said, "Them's Model A tools"!! The Dog's a HOARDER! He also chastised me for using up YOUR coffee cans to pick up his DOOLIES! AND, he said, "You ain't gonna' use those 'DOOLIE tongs' in the kitchen again, ur you?? He's like a NAGGING wife. Bill W.

[jmeckel]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Bob C, Thanks for the cutaway generator pic, it helps showa LOT of stuff!

Jmeckel, You mentioned the cut out hot wire goes to the starter switch cable. REMEMBER, that wire first goes to the junction box, then makes a loop up through the ammeter, back to the other junction box terminal, THEN down to the starter switch cable. Bill W.

Yes that is right, my point was that if the existing wiring was bad that is a quick way to wire it that will work, not the right way but it will work for getting things going.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Bob C

I stole the cutaway picture somebody else posted earlier, maybe Tom W?

Bob

Yes, that was one of several pictures I took of the cutaway chassis at the new Model A museum. Be sure to check it out when you are near Grand Rapid, MI.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Purdy, Buster T. just suggested, since Vermin has a 2 wire generator, if we could find a trick place to "hide" a 3 coil regulator, we could be chargin' SAFELY, without always playing with the 3rd brush or runnin' with the lights on. He also gave me HELL for throwing the chop sticks away when we had Chinese food last week! He said, "Them's Model A tools"!! The Dog's a HOARDER! He also chastised me for using up YOUR coffee cans to pick up his DOOLIES! AND, he said, "You ain't gonna' use those 'DOOLIE tongs' in the kitchen again, ur you?? He's like a NAGGING wife. Bill W.

Bill, Maybe you can hide it on the back side of the firewall or under the package tray. There won't be room under your swivel seats. The Fun projects can style regulator would be the cleanest easiest way to go and require less wire. No worry about the coffee cans, I've still got a right smart of them.

[Wisconsinjimmy]

What about the frame rail?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

Bill, Maybe you can hide it on the back side of the firewall or under the package tray. There won't be room under your swivel seats. The Fun projects can style regulator would be the cleanest easiest way to go and require less wire. No worry about the coffee cans, I've still got a right smart of them.

We could hide a whole PASSEL of "secretive" stuff under the swivel seat panel. The seat panel opens forward with a BRASS piano hinge & it's held open with an adjustable bicycle kick stand! The riser will hold our jack, pump, & ALL our tools & spare parts. (We didn't want all our "stuff" RUMBLING around in the back)
Bill W.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Wisconsinjimmy

What about the frame rail?

Yep, Jimbo, that would work! I "hid" Minerva's electric fuel pump in the R/H frame rail, without drilling a hole to "weaken" the frame, even! Bill W.

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Well time to go out and be a gangster got the lights working, had to run ground wire from gen to the lights. Thank you gentelman