The Ford Barn

sunshine · 09-28-2016, 11:14 AM

I use sediment bowl filters with no fuel problems , but there are 2 different bowls 1. Is thicker then the other , taking 2 different filters ,one requires a spring to hold it up to th e top of bowl

jagnweiner · 09-28-2016, 11:16 AM

Thanks, Sunshine. Helpful input. I'll have to check that.

Seth Swoboda · 09-28-2016, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery

This is NOT a good idea!!!

Bob sells two fuel lines. One is the original style with no check valve and the other has the check valve. I have the one with out the check valve. I also run an electric fuel pump in line with a switch hidden under the dash to prime the system if it sits for a long period. Thus I opted to go with out the valve.

rotorwrench · 09-28-2016, 01:14 PM

Many of the old cars suffer from a shellac build up in the fuel tank. A lot of them I've pulled have near 1/2 inch of the crud stuck to the bottom. This comes from years of inactivity. Fuel evaporates but also leaves some residue behind. After 50 to 60 years or more, it gets pretty thick.

Since you have been running the car, some of the crap can start coming loose and getting drawn into the line and pump. I make it a matter of practice to pull the tank and have a look inside. If you can't see the bottom of the tank then it's time for a good clean out. It's not as easy to find the lye crystals (sodium hydroxide) like we used to get in a can of Drano and other products back in the day but I mix up some in a small wash tub like the kind that will easily drop into the kitchen sink basin. I only mix up a few inches of the water lye mix at a time so I can work with it without spilling it on everything. You have to be careful not to get it on your skin or it will burn and eye protection is not a bad idea. Using a funnel, pour some in to the bottom of the tank and let it set over night. You will be able to pour the crud out the next day unless you have a larger amount of crud in there. This doesn't do all that much for corrosion but it will clean it down to the metal substrate so you can see if any thing else is going on in there. Rod the pick up tube out with an old section of speedometer cable and it might be good to go. If it is corroded badly, it may need to be sealed with one of Bill Hirsch's sealer kits or others that will withstand the modern ethanol mix fuels. The kit comes with a phosphoric acid to be used to remove the corrosion & convert whats left to iron phosphate.

Sometimes you can get by with out sealing the tank but it's rare in my part of the world. The bits of corrosion will just keep clogging up the filters.

Scott H in Wheaton · 09-28-2016, 03:37 PM

On an older system I would use an ethanol-resistant fuel hose without the anti-siphon valve, but on a new system ( NEW tank, NEW sender, NEW fuel line) I think the anti-siphon version is a good option.

Cecil/WV · 09-29-2016, 07:35 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Bob Shewman--610 933 [email protected]

I just got a non back flow hose for my '50 Ford.

jagnweiner · 09-29-2016, 07:22 PM

Thanks, Cecil.

Rustedjunk · 09-30-2016, 12:46 AM

I recommend running a new fuel line also from the tank to the firewall. It's not that expensive, not hard to bend to shape, and was pretty fun to do. My 47 had original rusty line, poorly clamped rubber hose, and brake line from the tank to the firewall before I replaced it all. This way you will know it's done right, it'll save you future headaches, and give you piece of mind while cruisin.

09-28-2016, 11:14 AM	#21
sunshine Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: SUNSHINE MD. Posts: 318	Re: Stranded Already! I use sediment bowl filters with no fuel problems , but there are 2 different bowls 1. Is thicker then the other , taking 2 different filters ,one requires a spring to hold it up to th e top of bowl

09-28-2016, 11:16 AM	#22
jagnweiner Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Geneseo, IL Posts: 290	Re: Stranded Already! Thanks, Sunshine. Helpful input. I'll have to check that. __________________ Regards, Scott '47 Mercury Convertible '25 Dodge Bros. Touring Car '63 MG Midget

09-28-2016, 01:14 PM	#24
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,436	Re: Stranded Already! Many of the old cars suffer from a shellac build up in the fuel tank. A lot of them I've pulled have near 1/2 inch of the crud stuck to the bottom. This comes from years of inactivity. Fuel evaporates but also leaves some residue behind. After 50 to 60 years or more, it gets pretty thick. Since you have been running the car, some of the crap can start coming loose and getting drawn into the line and pump. I make it a matter of practice to pull the tank and have a look inside. If you can't see the bottom of the tank then it's time for a good clean out. It's not as easy to find the lye crystals (sodium hydroxide) like we used to get in a can of Drano and other products back in the day but I mix up some in a small wash tub like the kind that will easily drop into the kitchen sink basin. I only mix up a few inches of the water lye mix at a time so I can work with it without spilling it on everything. You have to be careful not to get it on your skin or it will burn and eye protection is not a bad idea. Using a funnel, pour some in to the bottom of the tank and let it set over night. You will be able to pour the crud out the next day unless you have a larger amount of crud in there. This doesn't do all that much for corrosion but it will clean it down to the metal substrate so you can see if any thing else is going on in there. Rod the pick up tube out with an old section of speedometer cable and it might be good to go. If it is corroded badly, it may need to be sealed with one of Bill Hirsch's sealer kits or others that will withstand the modern ethanol mix fuels. The kit comes with a phosphoric acid to be used to remove the corrosion & convert whats left to iron phosphate. Sometimes you can get by with out sealing the tank but it's rare in my part of the world. The bits of corrosion will just keep clogging up the filters. Last edited by rotorwrench; 09-28-2016 at 01:43 PM.

09-28-2016, 03:37 PM	#25
Scott H in Wheaton Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Wheaton, IL near Chicago Posts: 861	Re: Stranded Already! On an older system I would use an ethanol-resistant fuel hose without the anti-siphon valve, but on a new system ( NEW tank, NEW sender, NEW fuel line) I think the anti-siphon version is a good option.

09-29-2016, 07:35 AM	#26
Cecil/WV Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gerrardstown, WV Posts: 2,266	Re: Stranded Already! Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Bob Shewman--610 933 [email protected] I just got a non back flow hose for my '50 Ford.

09-29-2016, 07:22 PM	#27
jagnweiner Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Geneseo, IL Posts: 290	Re: Stranded Already! Thanks, Cecil. __________________ Regards, Scott '47 Mercury Convertible '25 Dodge Bros. Touring Car '63 MG Midget

09-30-2016, 12:46 AM	#28
Rustedjunk Senior Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: St. Paul, MN Posts: 302	Re: Stranded Already! I recommend running a new fuel line also from the tank to the firewall. It's not that expensive, not hard to bend to shape, and was pretty fun to do. My 47 had original rusty line, poorly clamped rubber hose, and brake line from the tank to the firewall before I replaced it all. This way you will know it's done right, it'll save you future headaches, and give you piece of mind while cruisin.