Fan Belt Tension Adjuster....

[1936 ford pickup]

Hello to ALL....

I have a '36 Ford pickup with an alternator and wanted to replace the Fan Belt with new. I utilized a 7/8" x 1 1/4" long Coupling Nut (with 1/2-13 NC internal thread) and a 1/2-13 NC x 1 1/4" long Hex Head Bolt. I used round cardboard cut-outs under the Coupling Nut and above the Hex Head Bolt to make sure I did not scratch the paint on the intake manifold and bottom of the Alternator.
Slowly turning the Hex Head Bolt counter-clockwise put tension on the Fan Belt.
Worked perfect so I wanted to share and hope it may help someone else out there. Just curious as to what others out there do for Fan Belt tensioning.

Bruce in Ca.

[Jack E/NJ]

Broom handle. 8^) Jack E/NJ

[51 MERC-CT]

double post

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by 1936 ford pickup

Hello to ALL....

I have a '36 Ford pickup with an alternator and wanted to replace the Fan Belt with new. I utilized a 7/8" x 1 1/4" long Coupling Nut (with 1/2-13 NC internal thread) and a 1/2-13 NC x 1 1/4" long Hex Head Bolt. I used round cardboard cut-outs under the Coupling Nut and above the Hex Head Bolt to make sure I did not scratch the paint on the intake manifold and bottom of the Alternator.
Slowly turning the Hex Head Bolt counter-clockwise put tension on the Fan Belt.
Worked perfect so I wanted to share and hope it may help someone else out there. Just curious as to what others out there do for Fan Belt tensioning.

Bruce in Ca.

Same thing over 50 years ago.( Necessity is the mother of invention )

[GB SISSON]

I use a 2x4 with a long diagonal cut on one end. I really like this coupling nut thing and can't wait to copy it. Thank you Bruce!

[Jeff/Illinois]

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Good idea. It is tricky to tighten the fan belt on these motors, at least I always thought so.

We have a '36 PU too, anxious to see yours when done please post pics

[38bill]

Just don't get them so tight that they screw up the generator.

[Jeff/Illinois]

38Bill...

I was in the garage today and my fan belt on the '36 PU had about 1 and 1/8th inch deflection at the half way point of the belt.

I snugged it up, knowing about not being too tight, and now it has just shy of an inch maybe 7/8ths inch.

It seemed before that my ammeter was bouncing just a wee bit at idle and I was concerned the belt was slipping a tad bit.

I was brought up to make sure they were about 1 inch of deflection.

Is this too tight now??

[VeryTangled]

Where the heck is that thread about cool tools that people made or use?

It's from years ago from what I remember. A V-8'er had grafted a wrench to a prying point to help lift that stubborn genny with a lever applied to it. JM35's super engineered steering and rear hub pullers were in there too!

I love your idea because adjusting that belt without getting a little medieval is a challenge.

Just recall your deflection at midpoint. That belt don't have to be TIGHT to spin the pumps and power maker. But too tight will jack their shafts up eventually.

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I use a big bar but, I like this better. Thanks for posting.

[Ross F-1]

This is the most elegant tool I've seen, I have it saved as being "1950FordF1"s. (from FTE I suspect) I tried to make one like it but was not successful.

Vergil on here posted the "fulcrum" that bolts onto the WP bolt. Works well but really needs another bolt to keep it from rotating.

[tubman]

Here are a couple of pictures of "Vergil's Tool" :

[19Fordy]

Mr. tubman, Any chance of reposting those photos to make them larger?
Thanks.

I found it:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...n-belt.971007/

[19Fordy]

Mr. tubman, Any chance of reposting those photos to make them larger?
Thanks.

Sorry for the double post.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Mr. tubman, Any chance of reposting those photos to make them larger?
Thanks.

I did blow them up, but wasn't satisfied with the resolution. Here is what I have. I hope it's satisfactory. (Click the "thumbnails.)

[19Fordy]

Did more searching. Can anyone post a photo or explain how the tool shown in Post #41 works?
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...t=55015&page=3

[19Fordy]

Thanks tubman, After I posted , I did a little more searching and found larger version of your follow up.
Thanks for responding.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Now that fulcrum point looks like a good idea too.

Thanks.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 1936 ford pickup

Hello to ALL....

I have a '36 Ford pickup with an alternator and wanted to replace the Fan Belt with new. I utilized a 7/8" x 1 1/4" long Coupling Nut (with 1/2-13 NC internal thread) and a 1/2-13 NC x 1 1/4" long Hex Head Bolt. I used round cardboard cut-outs under the Coupling Nut and above the Hex Head Bolt to make sure I did not scratch the paint on the intake manifold and bottom of the Alternator.
Slowly turning the Hex Head Bolt counter-clockwise put tension on the Fan Belt.
Worked perfect so I wanted to share and hope it may help someone else out there. Just curious as to what others out there do for Fan Belt tensioning.

Bruce in Ca.

I had made a scissors type tool where I am able to place the non-adjustable ends between the generator and valve chamber cover. The adjustable end of my tool is a simple thumb screw. Turning it lifts the generator. I pretty much copied the basic concept from an old brake caliper piston retracting tool.

It appears your fan belt is not correct - too long. Factory fitment had a much smaller "open space" between the generator and chamber cover.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Kube I think you are right, as I'm almost out of adjustment the gennie sits kind of high.

This is the belt that was on the truck when I bought it, never gave it much thought. I'll check into it. All I ever did was look for splitting on the 'V' showing time to replace.

[1948F-1Pickup]

I have one of those "fan belt fulcrums' on my truck..... takes about 50% of
the fool-around out of setting the belt tension.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Did more searching. Can anyone post a photo or explain how the tool shown in Post #41 works?
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...t=55015&page=3

Maybe a little enlightenment.

[19Fordy]

Thanks 51 Merc- CT for posting that excellent photo. Just curious, that black flathead has some unusual pulleys, mounts and oil pan. Where was that engine used?

[Russ/40]

19Fordy, the tool to which you refer in post 41, the link to older tool posts is actually my tool. Surely the most complex of the tool suggested, but no more difficult to use. Sets up in seconds and gives easy adjustment control.
The tool anchors on the bolt mounting stud for the generator through the top with a deep socket. It then clamps the generator mount foot. By simply cranking the nut on the bottom you are raising the generator effortlessly.

So you put the tool on, loosen the stud bolt and crank the bottom nut. When the desired tension is reached, you tighten the generator mount nut, pull the socket out of the top and remove the tool.

more photos below: For Helmit style distributors, you need to remove the coil. For crabs you do not need to remove the coil.

[19Fordy]

Russ, That is a very slick tool. It has that KR WILSON persona. Well done.
I would like to make one.
What did you use to make the U shaped channel bottom piece? Was it adapted from another piece of material?

[51 MERC-CT]

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Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Thanks 51 Merc- CT for posting that excellent photo. Just curious, that black flathead has some unusual pulleys, mounts and oil pan. Where was that engine used?

It's a French flathead either military or commercial with water pumps that are unusual with something mounted to the pump on the drivers side (maybe gen/alternator?)
Also the timing cover has a built in distributor lock down screw and cam end play adjusting screw.

[Russ/40]

It was one of those days when you ask yourself what am I going to do today. There had been a bit of talk about how difficult it can be bending over forward and trying to pull up the gen and get things buttoned down securely. I decided I had only one purpose that day, and it was to think through an elegant but simple way to do the job. It was really fun as I worked my way through ideas, and solving obsticals.

The bottom clamp for the generator mount is made from part of a piece of angle iron. The "V" like piece is shaped to give max height lift to the gen and the tab in the middle of the V is to engage the slot the mount has to allow adjustment. The two pins help stabilize the bottom bracket limiting any side movement. This is what makes it so easy to get the tool properly seated eliminating a lot of fidgeting in the process. The lower foot behind the pins also adds to the stability of the tool. With experience you could actually do the job with the tool and use one hand.

I could CNC them in quantity but they would probably have to go for $50.

[19Fordy]

Thank you Russ for the reply. There might be a few folks willing to pay the $50 but not enough to justify the manufacturing cost. Manufacturing is expensive.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Thank you Russ for the reply. There might be a few folks willing to pay the $50 but not enough to justify the manufacturing cost. Manufacturing is expensive.

I was going to suggest that Russ make some up and sell them thru the parts vendors like Joe's in Massachusetts! This is slick, well done man!

[tubman]

I will tell you from experience that making things for these old engines has to be a labor of love. You will not make any money doing it. That being said, I would do it again in a heartbeat.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

19Fordy, the tool to which you refer in post 41, the link to older tool posts is actually my tool. Surely the most complex of the tool suggested

still pretty cool and probably the most precise method/tool I've seen for belt adjustment.


Old thread for stuff like this. Lot of great ideas from inventive people.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56112




.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Old thread for stuff like this. Lot of great ideas from inventive people. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56112.

[19Fordy]

Here is another method.
Cover the blade of a long screwdriver (to protect the paint) and place the point of the screwdriver in the little valley behind the distributor and block and aligned so that the screwdriver blade is under the appropriate bracket. Then pull up on the screwdriver handle and snug up the bolts.

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Tinker

still pretty cool and probably the most precise method/tool I've seen for belt adjustment.

.

True! You never need to hold any tension anywhere while you check the belt tension. Probably the best feature for us "older gents".

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

True! You never need to hold any tension anywhere while you check the belt tension. Probably the best feature for us "older gents".

Well said and our backs will thank us for it!!

[Terry,OH]

Russ: Great idea for a tool!

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

19Fordy, the tool to which you refer in post 41, the link to older tool posts is actually my tool.

I like it.

[oldford2]

Any pics of tensioners/fulcrums for the 59 block where the wire looms are in the way? Thanks
John

[3twinridges]

We had good luck using an engine hoist and a strap to set the tension on the generator and fan belt. I think I picked that up over on FTE.

JB

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by 3twinridges

We had good luck using an engine hoist and a strap to set the tension on the generator and fan belt. I think I picked that up over on FTE.

JB

This brought a smile to my face, okay I chuckled!

This thread has gone all over the place, but not in a bad way.

But we've gone from a couple of pieces of cardboard, a bolt and a coupling, to an engine hoist.

[oldford2]

Most of the belt tensioners tools were for an 8ba. The 59 engine wire looms don't allow their use. Here is one I made that provides a fulcrum point a bar or piece of wood. uses a front manifold bolt to attach. John


fulcrum.jpg

[oldford2]

sorry, double post

[35ragtop]

Good idea John,
we also have the problem on a 59 engine with adjusting the smaller fan belt. It is a real fiddly job to get it tight enough and the bracket square to the generator bracket. The only place to lever off is the distributor vacuum piston bolt which I dont like doing.
Any suggestions?
Dave

[Tinker]

We are still talking about adjusting a belt right???


I believe the stock tension is 3/4" tension play in the belt no matter how you get there. Meaning after its tight you can push the belt in 1/2 to 3/4'.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by 3twinridges

We had good luck using an engine hoist and a strap to set the tension on the generator and fan belt. I think I picked that up over on FTE.

JB

I have to agree here. As long as you have a cherry-picker style engine hoist readily available, it's very simple to roll it over to the vehicle, put a strap ( I use an old piece of ratchet-strap) around the generator. It's very simple to very precisely add belt tension. The only bending over needed is to loosen/tighten the mounting nut. It may sound like over-kill to use a hoist, but I didn't have to fabricate anything, it doesn't scratch anything, and my back doesn't hurt when I'm done.