Clutch (Still)

[wi0v]

Have been driving the car some (about 6 Miles) and still having problems with the clutch. When driving at about 15 MPH in Second and I engage the clutch and release the throttle, I can feel the engine slowing the car for about one second then I can feel the clutch release and the car coast. After it releases it shifts fine. If I place it in netural and release the clutch It will not go into gear without stoping and placing it in High gear and restarting the engine with the clutch in engaged. AT that time, it will try to move for a split second and the clutch releases and the engine easily starts. I can then easily shift it into any other gear.

It was suggested that the clutch disk was sticking to either the flywheel or the pressure plate or the pilot bearing was frozen. If either is the case, how without tearing down the clutch can I find out which or if either is the problem?

[2manycars]

It is also possible the clutch disk hub is sticking to the transmission input shaft. I cant think of a good way to fix whatever is wrong without removing the transmission and clutch.

[Jim Brierley]

If there is oil on the clutch you might try and spray some brake-clean on it. Do it while the engine is running, and with the clutch disengaged (pedal pressed down).

[Craig Lewis]

There's nothing (I can think of) to make the disc adhere to either flywheel or plate. At least nothing that wouldn't wipe itself clean after several startoff cycles.
I wonder if the disc may be hanging up on the shaft splines from rust? An often neglected step in clutch replacements...is cleaning that spline with a stiff brush and applying a light film of high temp grease.
Given the scenario above, when your clutch is released the disc is pushed forward on the dry rusty spline with considerable force so it moves a smidgeon and locks up against the flywheel.
Engaging the clutch SHOULD allow the disc to slide back off the flywheel and float....except it's locked there by the binding splines.
You could remove the inspection plate and a few carefully places shots of GOOD spray lube on the spline area with a long straw might free them up.
I'd avoid WD40 as it has no staying power. Try and find something that will penetrate with a longlasting lubricant and you might avoid taking it apart for awhile.

If this doesn't help, chances are the pilot bearing in your flywheel is cooked and grabbing the shaft...and I'd get it apart ASAP before the shaft is damaged.

[ford1]

if the pilot bearing is frozen to the main shaft, or the clutch is sticking to the flywheel there is really no way to fix that problem, either one will keep the main shaft turning and not let you shift with out grinding gears, first make sure you have at least 1" of free play on the clutch pedal, and if you have installed a new clutch it may be to thick to release with the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor boards, that has been a problem with the chinesse clutches, your going to have to pull the engine or trans, if the trans is difficult to seperate from the engine suspect the pilot bearing stuck to the main shaft, the clutch should slide on and off the main shaft with no resistence, also if you have an extra clutch send it to a good rebuilder that uses american parts, some one in here will tell you who to send it to

[wi0v]

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I've read all the posts and I think we all agree that it must be the plate or pilot bearing. However, since there is no noise that would indicate a bad or dry bearing I think Craig may be onto something. So will try to find a way to put some lube on the splines. Stay tuned, will let you know what I find.

Thanks for the help

[wi0v]

As you can see from all the previous posts, the clutch has been giving me problems for months. The good news is that I have finally got it working. The clutch plate was stuck on the transmission input shaft and would only release when the engine started or when moving. since I could see a little of the clutch plate hub, through the throwout bearing inspection/lube plate, using a punch about a 10 inches long,, I took a couple of good blows on the punch with a small hammer. Turned the flywheel a forth of a turn and repeated the process untill I went all the way around. Started up the engine and the clutch worked. Today was the day before tearing out the clutch and replacing the whole thing. Sometimes you just finally get lucky.

Because the group gave me so much input, I thought I had better give a little feedback back to the group.

[700rpm]

Thanks for letting us know what worked. Oftentimes we are just taking a guess, not being there to actually see what's happening. It's always good to get the feedback.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Had an "A" once with a gummy goo disc that chattered really bad. Inspection cover off, I had an old carbon tetrachloride fire extinguisher with about a quart of stuff in it, in neutral, running, I squirted it in through the center of the pressure plate while working the clutch up and down many times, really"flushing" that dude out. Used the whole quart of stuff. Propped the clutch down with a 2x4, so it could drain out overnight. Never chattered anymore! Bill W.

[columbiA]

Maybe now that you have it working,you should squirt a small amount of liquid -wrench thru the straw onto the splines.

[Patrick L.]

I didn't see where you tried using anything on the splines to lube and free them up.. I too think it would be worth a try to squirt or somehow get some ATF or some such oil on the shaft and drive it for awhile longer.. That is what seems to me the problem is from your description.. You didn't mention anything about chatter[or I missed it] so personally I wouldn't want to remove it just yet.. How much free-play do you have?? Removing a clutch on one of these monsters is a considerable job, either the rear end or engine has to come out..

[wi0v]

I forgot to mention that I had squirted some oil on the splines with a small tube. Although that didn't free it up, I'm sure it didn't hurt anything. It was stuck because it had been parked in a garage for over 40 years. Now that it's has been freeded up, don't think that will ever be a problem again. Now I can move on to the next fun part of being a Model A owner. I'm sure there will be plenty of things to work on.