Engine Oil

[PC/SR]

I use older Chevron Delo 15-40 for diesels with high zddp and a filter and the engine is really clean, but as noted about anything these day will be better than the original. Since it comes in 5 gal containers, I also am now using it in my modern which oil and filter I change at 5000 miles and has 180 k on it. Also use it on the Wife's car that is 10 yrs old and 30k miles, she only drives 3-5 miles a day, really tough service. Kinda funny in a way, but the A gets more consideration and attention than the other cars.

[MrTube]

Originally Posted by PC/SR

I use older Chevron Delo 15-40 for diesels with high zddp and a filter and the engine is really clean, but as noted about anything these day will be better than the original. Since it comes in 5 gal containers, I also am now using it in my modern which oil and filter I change at 5000 miles and has 180 k on it. Also use it on the Wife's car that is 10 yrs old and 30k miles, she only drives 3-5 miles a day, really tough service. Kinda funny in a way, but the A gets more consideration and attention than the other cars.

Hmm.
The thought of 15-40 in any modern engine regardless of miles gives me heartburn.

[Bill Goddard]

I would mix them all together in a 5 gal pail and stir. That way I would have an average of all the opinions. How could I go wrong? Bill G

[Kurt in NJ]

I have used extra doses of detergent (the kind for quieting noisey lifters) on sludged up engines that were having problems with loosing oil pressure due to loosened sludge clogging the pump screen ---this was on cars that had been neglected for many miles, were full of sludge in the valve covers, a short time after addition of the detergent normal oil pressure returned.

It's like using blood thinners to prevent a stroke.

For our short trip low mileage use another important additive to look for is the corrosion inhibiter, something that may not be in non detergent oils.

[Larry Brumfield]

I think the kind used for quieting noisy lifters is more of a solvent than an equivalent to the normal detergent used in oil.

[Earle]

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I think (hope?) ford1 was being "humorous". We semi-purests are proud of our straight-cut gears and mechanical brakes. My roadster's windshield wiper, however, is one of those new-fangled vacuum types. 'Works real swell!

I use Rotella 15W-40 detergent since my recent Schwalm rebuild. I also run a full-flow valve-cover-mounted oil filter. 'Best of all worlds - constant fine filtration, multi-viscosity for weather temperature fluctuations, detergent to carry contaminents to the filter and zinc for the valve train.

Earle

[Old182]

Lots of good stuff here. If you choose to run non-detergent oil, here's what you're giving up: Detergent (duh), dispersant, antiwear agents (low ZDDP, but other additives to replace it), friction modifiers, oxidation inhibitors, corrosion inibitors, and antifoamants. The original detergents were meant to prevent valve sticking, but that technology has changed considerably over the years and now detergents refer to keep-clean agents, not clean-up chemistry. It doesn't make sense for an oil company put something in oil that washes oil off metal - and they don't. Detergents in moderen oils are not Lux liquid, they are mostly acid neutralizers that REALLY help keep your engine clean. You need dispersants to keep products of combustion and other sludge-forming materials in suspension so that the filter can pick them up or they can be drained. Antiwear is self explanitory, although Model A engines don't make enough power to require ZDDP or other extreme pressure additives (our engines were built before it appeared and have survived 80 years, many with NO additives!). Friction modifiers and corrosion inhibitors are also self explanitory. Antioxidants will keep your oil from becoming sludged by preventing the oxidation that occurs from normal operation and is caused by interactions with air, combustion by-products and unburned fuel. Antifoamants obviously prevent foaming - there's no lubrication quality in foam, and the air in the foam promotes oxidation and reduces what little oil pressure our engines develop. Model A engines came with straight weight oils but modern muti-viscosity oils work quite well in these engines - it's really a matter of personal preference. Check out an article in the Model A News a couple of years ago on "Choosing The Right Oil For Your Model A", or email me and I'll send you a copy. Of course, you can always choose to go with good old non-additized, non-detergent (and non-everything else), mineral oil. It's your engine, enjoy it but preserve it.

[ford1]

Earle, i was just jerking a few of the guys chains in fun, but my post was misinterpred, what i was trying to say was, there is no reason to use obsolete technology when there are a lot better alternites, (detergent oil), why use something just because it was used 80 years ago? and i would never give up the low gear whine coming from my A because of the straight cut gears, i love that sound,its part of the lore of old cars, and thanks for the pleasant reply and not wanting to rip my head off, like one of the other guys would love to do, lol

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by ford1

Earle, i was just jerking a few of the guys chains in fun, but my post was misinterpred, what i was trying to say was, there is no reason to use obsolete technology when there are a lot better alternites, (detergent oil), why use something just because it was used 80 years ago? and i would never give up the low gear whine coming from my A because of the straight cut gears, i love that sound,its part of the lore of old cars, and thanks for the pleasant replty and not wanting to rip my head off, like one of the other guys would love to do, lol

lol,lol

[HoarseWhisperer]

The 28' Pickup I just acquired has been running non-detergent oil. I want to switch to detergent.

I realize that things need to be cleaned up before I do, but what exactly is the process and what chemicals are used in the cleaning? Thx!

[MrTube]

Pull the pan and valve cover and clean anything you see that is nasty. Reassemble and enjoy.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by HoarseWhisperer

The 28' Pickup I just acquired has been running non-detergent oil. I want to switch to detergent.

I realize that things need to be cleaned up before I do, but what exactly is the process and what chemicals are used in the cleaning? Thx!

I think you should be careful when doing this. If I were not taking the engine apart I would only clean the pan and pump. The reasoning is, while detergent oil will not cause the sludge to come loose in clumbs, if you scrape the sludge in the valve area you might just leave loose clumps that could block the galleys to the bearings.

[Louis]

I know everyone has a diff. opin. on what oil to use. Here's my story,
I bought my 31 coupe aprox. 3 years ago, it had been on blocks in a garage sence 1972, I was told that the eng. had been rebuilt in 1971, [don,t know for sure].
The guy got it started and I drove it home, The 1st thing was to change the oil, It looked like cream colored goo , I put in 15w40 shell-rottella detergent and changed it every 50-75 miles untill it was clean looking [took about 4-5 times] now I change it when it looks black,300-400 miles.
I did not drop the pan and clean it, I just kept changing the oil untill it was clean looking, So far it's doing great and sounds good to me.
Good luck on what ever you do .

[Greg Jones]

For a car that has sat for many years it would probably be wise to drop the pan and clean it out. You might be surprised to find a jellied, firm mass of oil that aint flowing too well. (Although one time I opened up a Model T engine that had been sitting forever and the oil looked like it had been just put in.) As they say, "YMMV."