What is next step adjusting A-Brakes

[Netclassics]

Hi I have just checked the old Model A 1931 that has been in storage for more than 40 years. Obviosly the former owner had started to work with the brakes as it was a mess.
I have changed all brake rods to rods that not is welded or made shorter.
The rods are now set so that I have no slack at all. The brake pedal feels just perfect.
Can I use the wood stick method now or shall I start with taking off the rods and adjust them after the brakes are adjusted tight to the drum?

I hope I can go on from the point I´m at now but please advise me. The car shall go in for official test in just a week.

Br Lars Hedstrom Sweden

[1931 flamingo]

My guy said to adj each wheel, then go to the rods, then the board and then test. When adjusting, put it up on jack stands located under the AXLES. Others will chime in I'm sure.
Paul in CT

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Forget the "BOARD" thing! Boards are just for "BUILDING" things. That's just "OLD TIME" woo-woo stuff! Bill W.

[ctlikon0712]

In this thread:
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...hlight=barrett
Bogiediver posted a PDF of the Barrett Brake manual I purchased. It has all you want to know about how to adjust the brakes the way it was done in the 30's and 40's. You want a centering tool and one can be made cheaply like this.

[P.S.]

I have no idea what Bill is talking about.

Here's how I do it (and I'm a newbie):

Put the car on stands, locate the stands under the axle as close to the wheels as practical.

Undo the 4 brake rods at the adjustment ends. This means remove cotter pins and the clevis pins.

Spin each wheel and adjust the square adjustment until they just start to rub, then back off 1 click so they spin freely again. Do NOT touch these adjustments again (until you need to adjust for wear later on).

Re-connect brake rods but do not put cotter pins yet. You need to adjust each one so they are about equal. Put brake board in and set to the first notch. Adjust the brake rods until all 4 wheels have a little drag in them, and they are equal. The amount of drag isn't as important as that the drag is equal.

Put the brake board to the second notch. You should notice all brakes have heavy drag. Adjust as necessary. Remember- They all need to be equal.

Remove brake board and make sure all the wheels still spin freely without the brake pedal pushed in. If not, go back to step 1.

Put brake board in and set to third notch. Brakes should be pretty much locked up. If so, you're done! If not, then go back 1 step.

After this, install cotter pins in all the clevis pins and take her for a spin! Should stop very well now. Some people like to do the "Skid on a gravel road" test. However, if you adjust as above, all should be well without having to skid your car on a gravel road.

[Purdy Swoft]

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I'm with Bill I don't use a board .

[P.S.]

You can also use a piece of tape on the brake pedal arm and just draw lines on it and use a helper to push the pedal down as needed.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Everyone just do it your way, it's a FREE country!
Ol' Bill here,
This is MY PERSONAL way:
1-Disconnect all 4 brake rods at the wheels.
2-Grip the side of the tire, next to the tread, with your thumb & forefinger & adjust the square goodie 'til you just CAN'T turn the wheel.
3-Rap on the backing plate with a rubber hammer to "center" the shoes.
4-Re-check above adjustment, (It may take a knotch or two more to "lock" up.
5-Back up adjuster 3 or 4 knotches.
6-Push back the slack on the front operating arms with 1 finger to make sure they are angled forward, like about 12:30 or 1:00 o'clock position.
7-While gently pulling forward on the rod to take up any slack & pushing back gently on the lever, adjust the clevis until the pin just goes in. Don't hook up ANY rod until you've adjusted all the others.
8-Now, don't forget to do the OTHER front one!
9-Now to the rears, same thing, except you'll be pushing the brake lever, gently FORWARD, and pulling each brake rod, gently BACKWARD.
10-Hook up ALL the brake rods & DON'T forget the cotter keys/pins!! And be sure to bend them correctly, so the Purist Folks don't LAUGH at you!
Sounds like a lot of work, but it ain't, in the future, you'll only ever have to quickly adjust up your brakes with the square goody.
Took me longer to type it than the actual job would have taken! (WHEW!)
If after doing this, IF you get a slight front pull, whichever way it pulls, just back OFF that one adjuster a notch or two.

By the way, I'm going to make a front & a rear centering guage by torching away almost all the drum from 2 junk hub & drum assemblys, leaving only about 2" of the braking surface. I can even hang my dial indicator with a magnetic base on it, so's it can look "HIGH-TONED! Bill Goldberg

[Del in NE Ohio]

Don't ignore the cross shaft! IF it is not stable, everything you do "downstream" is compromised!

[Marklambert61]

Do a search in Youtube there is a great video showing step by step instructions for brake adjustment.

Mark

[Purdy Swoft]

Buy the Victor Duncan video, How to stop on a dime. This video is offered by Snyders, Brattons and many others. This video shows the brake work being done by LLoyd Kerr and is worth every penny.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Del in NE Ohio

Don't ignore the cross shaft! IF it is not stable, everything you do "downstream" is compromised!

Right on! Del,
I have, in my hot hand, 2 pair of A-2477-BS split bronze cross shaft bushings from Snyders! On the car, just split the old ones with a cut off wheel, pry them open & they're out! Grease the new ones & pop them in. Fortunately my shaft was in PRIMO condition. Bill W.

[V4F]

if set correctly , mechanical brakes are great . i do like the floater kit . really smoked the tires with it in !!!!!!!!!!!