Crankshaft in New Rebuilt Model A Engine Won't Turn

[M2M]

So the engine guy didn't put the engine on a test stand and start it to help break it in and to see if everything is okay?

[DD931]

This engine needs to be Plastigaged. You need to know that the clearances are adequate. My guess is that the mains are at zero clearance.

[Charlie Stephens]

I missed the post where you removed the plugs and starter as suggested and tried turning it. That might solve your problem.

Charlie Stephens

[tinkirk]

so when the guy put it together make's me wonder how hard the crank turned over so that he could install the rods,piston or if he was even able to check crank end play
it had to have been able to turn at that time
someone else suggested the flywheel bolts as too long.
pull it back out and start over checking the parts that you installed before taking any part of the motor apart
if you take any part of what he did apart he has reason to tell you no warranty if he offered any in the first place

Terry

[Kahuna]

This makes me absolutely ill & sick that there are still people that have no clue how to assemble an engine and take good money for it.
Railcarmover & Kohnke have it right. Follow their advice before you make it worse.
Jim

[Ed in Maine]

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You didn't mention how long your newly rebuilt engine has been sitting since the rebuild. Several years ago I had an engine rebuilt but I was not ready to mount the engine in the frame. One thing led to another and it sat about 3 years before I got the restoration to where it was time for the motor. Like you, I couldn't budge it with the crank and the 6v starter wouldn't budge it. I was afraid of what may have happened with the cylinders, so I pulled the head and found everything perfect, shiny steel cylinders, etc. Also checked the starter mounting bolts to be sure they were not too long. I re-oiled the cylinders and torqued head back down with a new gasket. I got my 12v battery out of my car and used it only on the starter. The 6v battery was used for the ignition. Still no luck with the 12v. So, I removed all the plugs, and towed the car with my tractor, very slowly, put the car in third gear and very slowly & carefully let the clutch out till I could hear the clutch disc start to rub and then hit the starter and bingo, the motor was turning. I emphasize very slowly, you don't want to shear a rear axle key! I had the hood off and could see the fan turning. I was one happy guy. I towed the car about a mile. The next step was to put the engine back together and using 12v started the car. I've got over 1500 miles on the car and it is perfect. It seems when an engine has sat for a period of time they can get stuck. My engine builder told me it was going to be tight but it was turning in the shop and criticized me for not hand turning it once a month while in storage. Good luck, Ed

[40 Deluxe]

"don't want to shear a rear axle key"?????? If you're worried about shearing an axle key, you better get out to your garage/shop right now and tighten those rear axle nuts! They must be too loose! The matching tapers of the axle shaft and the hub are what handle the load, not the key. With the nut properly torqued, the key is just along for the ride.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

"don't want to shear a rear axle key"?????? If you're worried about shearing an axle key, you better get out to your garage/shop right now and tighten those rear axle nuts! They must be too loose! The matching tapers of the axle shaft and the hub are what handle the load, not the key. With the nut properly torqued, the key is just along for the ride.

Not only should he tighten the nuts but he should make sure the tapers are clean and FREE OF OIL AND GREASE and not galled up. A tight engine might not be his only problem.

[Kurt in NJ]

I was reading in old book--- if it takes one horse to pull it around in gear it's ok, if it takes 2 horses it's too tight

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

I was reading in old book--- if it takes one horse to pull it around in gear it's ok, if it takes 2 horses it's too tight

Did the book specify the size or age of the horse? Can't compare apples to oranges, you know

[eagle]

I hear/see a bunch of knowledgable people jumping to conclusions. First check to make sure nothing external is causing the engine to be locked, THEN if it is too tight to turn bring it back to the rebuilder and have them fix the problem. Getting in there now and messing around will only void any warranty you have. If this is a reputable rebuilder let them defend their reputation. The LAST thing you want to do is get into a dispute needlessly. Anyone can make a mistake, its how you re-address your mistakes that tests your true character.

[100IH]

OMG OP disappeared. Must have been cranking to start in gear and drove through the garage wall.

[Ernie Vitucci]

Just a thought, but I have a couple of times put the bolts in the starter incorrectly and ended up with the upper bolt up against the flywheel and nothing would move. Take the plugs out and take the starter off and if she won't turn over with the crank then do nothing until you can get knowledgeable help. Ernie in Arizona

[Jeff/Illinois]

Sounds to me like that 'engine rebuilder' is yanking your crank. Sorry this happened to you. No doubt there are a lot of other things wrong too, and even if you get the thing going it will probably crap out within 800 miles of use.

This guy didn't know what he was doing from the sounds of it.

[aermotor]

Originally Posted by 100IH

OMG OP disappeared. Must have been cranking to start in gear and drove through the garage wall.

Hope not.

John

[Tom Wesenberg]

You can't install the starter bolts incorrectly, because all 3 are 1" long.


You can install the incorrect bolt however.

[Corley]

Don't you just hate it when you never get to hear the "rest of the story"?

[George D]

I assembled an A engine once using permatex assembly lube on the mains and rods the stuff was so sticky I could not turn the engine over with a 2' breaker bar. Babbitt was new and clearances were correct had two clean the lube out and assemble with light oil then engine turned normally

[Richard Lorenz]

I have a '31 engine rebuilt by a very reputable builder. When new it took much more than 75 foot-pounds to turn it. Most of the drag was in the "asbestos" seals at the ends.

You might put a large pipe wrench on the hand crank with a pipe slipped over the pipe wrench to get more leverage.

My 6-volt start turned it over fast enough to start it when it was new.

[DHZIEMAN]

Originally Posted by some mech 3

I can't time the newly rebuilt model A engine because I can't turn the crankshaft using a hand crank. I called the mechanic who rebuilt the engine and he said, Oh, you'll never be able to turn crank by hand. You have to use the starter. I told him the new battery will not turn the starter. His answer was to hook a 12 Volt battery in line with the 6 Volt. This will turn the engine over but you cannot control the speed of crankshaft in order to have the pin mate with the timing recess. Two people are needed to try to get the timing pin into the timing gear recess: one person pulsates the starter button while the second attempts to feel the recess and insert the pin.
It is strictly hit or miss and nearly impossible to time the engine. I have timed many Model A engines, but never one that couldn't be cranked by hand. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance.
Some mech 3

In reading thru all that has been posted including mine, the wise thing is do the easy stuff first. And that is BRENT in 10-uh-C post! It may be that easy!