Tie Rod End Trouble

[California Charlie]

Guys,
My Model A restoration project is really testing my backyard mechanic skills. I've now stumbled upon another issue.

I managed to pound in the driver's side tie rod end successfully, but for the life of me I can't get the passenger tie rod end in. I've lubed it, tried different springs, etc, etc.

Is there a trick to this that I'm missing??? Is this just a pound it until it hopefully seats down on the ball? There must be an easier way than this.

Thanks to all that offer me some help with this matter.

[redmodelt]

Best to be done with the backing plates off and end plugs out. Sounds like you are trying to install with the plugs installed and backing plates on.

[California Charlie]

Originally Posted by redmodelt

Best to be done with the backing plates off and end plugs out. Sounds like you are trying to install with the plugs installed and backing plates on.

Backing plate off and end plug out.

[California Charlie]

I guess I should mention I'm using the Teflon inserts. Does anything not look right with the way I am installing them in my photo?

[redmodelt]

Make sure there isn't and old seat behind the spring in the rod. I am not a fan of the Teflon inserts but that is neater here nor there. How are the balls on the arms? If they are not round or very close to round this will be a wast of time. A lot of them are worn and look like an Australian rules football! (the ball is less pointed then American)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australian_rules_football

[larrys40]

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Charlie
I would NOT remove the backing plates and brakes. It is best to service the tie rod assembly off the car on the bench. You can loosen the two steering arm nuts and dislodge them from the spindle. You can also remove the steering arm on the steering box and then remove the entire assembly for service on the bench in the vise. You can then feel each one for tightness and service with new teflin ends, steering caps and rubbers very easily.
Install in reverse.
I do these all the time and for the life of me can't figure out why some try and do it the hard way.
In removing it you can bead blast the ends, replace steering arms if need be and dress them if needed very easily
Larry Shepard

[fixitphil]

Charlie,
I had the same problem yesterday while rebuilding my tie rod and drag link. I finally found that Snyders tie rod/drag link rebuild kit had seats that were too thick in comparison to the originals. Of course mine were steel, not Teflon, but maybe the same problem is facing you.
Fixitphil

[Will N]

C- Clamp to squeezed the thing in?

[ursus]

Originally Posted by fixitphil

Charlie,
I had the same problem yesterday while rebuilding my tie rod and drag link. I finally found that Snyders tie rod/drag link rebuild kit had seats that were too thick in comparison to the originals. Of course mine were steel, not Teflon, but maybe the same problem is facing you.
Fixitphil

I had the same experience, but can't remember what vendor I bought the kit from. I finally settled on a combination of new seats and old springs and that worked for me.

[larrys40]

Charlie
If you are using the Snyder steer Eze kit it should do fine. Use them all the time. Use a small dead blow or soft face hammer to seat the arm if you need to.
Sometimes you have to dress the steel caps to seat around the steering arm boss. Brattons caps fit better than Snyders but I like snyders steer eze kit better than Brattons.


When tightened properly the end caps should be about flush with the end of the tie rod ends but should move freely and be good and snug. Make sure you assemble with good chassis grease. I like the red stuff.
Larry Shepard