Today’s carnage

[296 V8]

Id forgotten how much I hate early style valves



The reward … one nice 59 block
It doesn’t even have the little deck cracks from bolts to water holes.


Id been putting off tearing this one down because of the PITA valves

[Ken/Alabama]

Do yourself a big favor and remove the block from the engine stand. I have seen those bell housings break off from being hung on that type of engine stand.

[Brian]

Why?? Looks like you gottem out! None of that crap is going back. What is there to hate?

[296 V8]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

Do yourself a big favor and remove the block from the engine stand. I have seen those bell housings break off from being hung on that type of engine stand.

How is it I knew someone would mention that ……. In my 54 years iv never seen it

[Pete]

Originally Posted by 296 V8

How is it I knew someone would mention that ……. In my 54 years iv never seen it

Old wives tale.

[jake197000]

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i agree,if the bolts are correct and properly tightened you wont have a problem.i never have.

[ken ct]

I agree Ken,better his foot or feet than mine. It only takes once. ken ct. Then he can say hes only seen it once in 54 yrs.

[thirt4]

Those exhaust manifold engine stand adapter are such cheap insurance...
As for mine, I hang mine on my KRW side hanging stand.

[296 V8]

It was complete (less heads) w flywheel clutch intake on that stand for the last two years …. Photos or it never happened

[Ol' Ron]

Get an exhaust manafold adapter.

[texas webb]

Well ya got a good sound block

[slobroy]

A relieved block and split valve guides, smell like an original truck engine.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Pete

Old wives tale.

Hmmm....

[G.M.]

I have at least 6 old Fords engines on that type of stand for years and never had a problem. I did have a friend come in the shop in tears about 15 years ago. His 39 Mercury engine fell off the stand and the bell houseing was all bent with long breaks. I welded it up for him and he said not to tell anybody. He passed away so I guess I can let the secret out. The problem was he jambed bolts that were to long in with an air wrench. There wasn't enough threads and the shoulders of the bolts split the threaded holes of the bell housing. G.M.

[Charlie ny]

296,
The bell housing tale is not an old wives tale.....it IS a tale of
woe. Flat head jack and others sell exhaust face mounts for less than
$100. The other great selling point of the exhaust face mount is that
the motor can be built supported by it. KR Wilson was no fool he designed
and built the original exh face mount.
Charlie ny

[Bob G/Spanaway]

I had to use a 1/2" carbide drill to drill the heads off several valves to get them out.
They were rusted in the closed position and I couldn't get them to move.
Worked good once I figured it out.

[Kahuna]

You did great Greg
I never believed the engine stand problem either.
Jim

[Chisel]

Originally Posted by Bob G/Spanaway

I had to use a 1/2" carbide drill to drill the heads off several valves to get them out.
They were rusted in the closed position and I couldn't get them to move.
Worked good once I figured it out.

.
If you hit a closed valve in the center of the head with a ball peen hammer the head and the stem will seperate or break off.

[Capn John]

http://www.stumpysfabworks.zoomshare.com/2.html

look for the engine stand adapter


Ford Flathead engine stand adapters: 85-100hp, 59A/B Ford Flathead Engine Stand Adapter

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by Chisel

.
If you hit a closed valve in the center of the head with a ball peen hammer the head and the stem will seperate or break off.

Only the exhaust valves if they are stock Ford items. The intakes with the recess in the head will just bend.

[Pete]

"The other great selling point of the exhaust face mount is that
the motor can be built supported by it."

Are you inferring it can't be built on a conventional bell housing mount?

[Chisel]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

Only the exhaust valves if they are stock Ford items. The intakes with the recess in the head will just bend.

Get a bigger hammer!!!

[1932 V8]

296 It looks like you cut the valve to pull the engine appart. What did you use?
Thanks, Mike

[Bob G/Spanaway]

I'll try it.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by Chisel

Get a bigger hammer!!!

Won't help, They'll just bend.

[Mart]

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Ok, forgetting the bellhousing strength and hitting the valve debate, well done on getting that lot out of the block.

It's amazing how you can rescue a block from a seemingly scrap motor. It's no easy task getting those out of there, I know, I've done it a couple of times.

Mart.

[Bob G/Spanaway]

1932 V8...To cut the valves and springs up I used an angle grinder and a .040 cutoff wheel.

[296 V8]

Originally Posted by 1932 V8

296 It looks like you cut the valve to pull the engine appart. What did you use?
Thanks, Mike

Since as usual they wouldn’t pull down w the valve guide bar.
I decided to push and pry the valves up one at a time - stick a wedge under the stem to hold it up - cut the heads off w a cut off wheel.
Then pushed um all back down and cut the stems w the torch.
The 5/8 deep socket and a hammer pushed the guides w stem remnant down and out.

Cutting twice is what the hate comments about….takes up half the day

8ba … I simply pry up - pop off the keepers - pull the valve - drive the guides down.

[296 V8]

As for the stand issue
Don’t get me wrong here … im not 100 percent convinced it’s a real problem but believe me I don’t take any chances and lean on it.
I keep a pease of tubing / leg under the nose of it when I am leaning on it.

Additionally
I have all the proper side attachments and stuff and am well aware of most every flathead related tool ever made.
The problem is I have more than one motor on stands right now and I didn’t feel like putting a freshly built and painted one on the ground.
On top of that the picker is stuck in front of a car that dont move right now.

[33cabriolet]

the exhaust valves have to be melted or use a plasma cutter,stock intakes will cut with a torch,helps to clean sludge out too