The Ford Barn

jim galli · 10-10-2014, 08:09 PM

So I read up on using the capillary tube from a donor gauge, putting it in ice slurry with salt to keep the ether in the bulb, blah blah blah and figured I could accomplish the surgery, but after taking my old gauge out, I don't see any red goo inside the glass tube anymore. This car spent some extremely warm years in a garage in Hemet California. Did the red goop dry up, or escape as vapor? Am I wasting my time on this particular gauge? Good images below.

deuce lover · 10-10-2014, 08:12 PM

Wasting your time.Line has been cut.A NOS one is listed in the for sale section by member, gkgeiger.

jim galli · 10-10-2014, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deuce lover

Wasting your time.Line has been cut.A NOS one is listed in the for sale section by member, gkgeiger.

So on these type, once the line has been cut it's dead? You can't solder on a capillary from another gauge?

deuce lover · 10-10-2014, 08:43 PM

Yes when cut its dead.Williamson's in AR was redoing them and they used to charge $1.75 an inch or something like that so you are better off with a NOS.In recent years the lines that have been repaired and charged - the red dye fades out.That red dye is now outlawed.The repo's sold by the vendors are made in Argentina.The glass tube is slightly smaller in dia and over time the red fades out also.The Temperature Gauge Guy in VT used to redo them but figure at least $250.The Early Ford Store in San Dimas,CA might have a NOS and if so will be over $300.

ford38v8 · 10-11-2014, 01:48 AM

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NOS would be nice, but even that is no guarantee that the gauge is good. NOS is still old and can be dried up also. If the fluid is still fluid, that's the clue that you are on the right track. Don't buy it if you can't verify the fluid. If at a swap meet, the sender bulb in a very hot cup of coffee will verify the integrity of the unit. I'd say hold a match under the sender bulb, but that was the old days when they weren't so valuable. Do that now and the seller would have a heart attack.

10-10-2014, 08:09 PM	#1
jim galli Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Tonopah, NV. Posts: 283	Question about 1938 Temp Gauge So I read up on using the capillary tube from a donor gauge, putting it in ice slurry with salt to keep the ether in the bulb, blah blah blah and figured I could accomplish the surgery, but after taking my old gauge out, I don't see any red goo inside the glass tube anymore. This car spent some extremely warm years in a garage in Hemet California. Did the red goop dry up, or escape as vapor? Am I wasting my time on this particular gauge? Good images below. __________________ He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep, to gain what he cannot lose... Jim Elliott, 1949 http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

10-10-2014, 08:12 PM	#2
deuce lover Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern France Posts: 5,301	Re: Question about 1938 Temp Gauge Wasting your time.Line has been cut.A NOS one is listed in the for sale section by member, gkgeiger. Last edited by deuce lover; 10-10-2014 at 08:18 PM.

10-10-2014, 08:43 PM	#4
deuce lover Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern France Posts: 5,301	Re: Question about 1938 Temp Gauge Yes when cut its dead.Williamson's in AR was redoing them and they used to charge $1.75 an inch or something like that so you are better off with a NOS.In recent years the lines that have been repaired and charged - the red dye fades out.That red dye is now outlawed.The repo's sold by the vendors are made in Argentina.The glass tube is slightly smaller in dia and over time the red fades out also.The Temperature Gauge Guy in VT used to redo them but figure at least $250.The Early Ford Store in San Dimas,CA might have a NOS and if so will be over $300.

10-11-2014, 01:48 AM	#5
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 6,635	Re: Question about 1938 Temp Gauge Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) NOS would be nice, but even that is no guarantee that the gauge is good. NOS is still old and can be dried up also. If the fluid is still fluid, that's the clue that you are on the right track. Don't buy it if you can't verify the fluid. If at a swap meet, the sender bulb in a very hot cup of coffee will verify the integrity of the unit. I'd say hold a match under the sender bulb, but that was the old days when they weren't so valuable. Do that now and the seller would have a heart attack. __________________ Alan