fordomatic fluid

[GLAmes]

The type A I bought from NAPA is made by Pure Guard part #P024 Made in the USA.

[KULTULZ]

Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Transmission Fluid

Multi-vehicle transmission fluids are becoming more and more popular in the marketplace. Oil marketers design these fluids for a wide range of automatic transmission types. While they are not licensed by any specific auto manufacturer, they are designed to provide superior performance and protection. They are formulated with the latest additive technology and their performance is typically supported by extensive field testing. Most multi-vehicle transmission fluids utilize synthetic base oils.

SOURCE - https://team.valvoline.com/diy/how/s...f-your-vehicle

INSERT -

TYPE F Transmission Fluid

This fluid meets old Ford specification and is not commonly recommended for today’s transmissions. This may be the fluid of choice of older Ford classic cars, racing or hydraulic applications.

SOURCE - https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united...ses-types.html

There is no FORD SPECIFIED FA ATF. It is an aftermarket term.

Unless the fluid container displays the manufacturers license no. (FORD-GM-MOPAR) (to show blending compliance) , it is not factory approved, period.

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And the CAPT. AHAB - MOBY DICK SYNDROME has to be forgotten as whale oil was (is) not compatible with modern (1967- ) transmissions.

DESCRIPTIVE ARTICLE CONCERNING WHALE OIL USAGE -

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/725.cfm

[Gene F]

Kultulz, what EXACTLY do you use, and where do you get it?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Kultulz, what EXACTLY do you use, and where do you get it?

I personally only use MOTORCRAFT AT FLUIDS. It is readily available on AMAZON and such. I usually go to a MOTORCRAFT DISTRIBUTOR to buy.

[LOWRIDER]

Originally Posted by 5851a

I just use the type F and green antifreeze in my pre 80's cars. Ford already has changed the color and content of coolant twice in my 2012 and 2005, orange, pink, gold. What did they do, hire someone from Sherwin Williams?

My sister was a chemist at a small oil company that supplied different type lubricants to shops and manufacturers in the metro Detroit area. She received a call one time that a cutting oil they supplied didn't work like it should. When she talked to the foreman he said "this new stuff is blue and doesn't work like the old red stuff". No problem. She had a batch made up the same way and just added a dye to make it red. Guy called back and said it works great now.

[Gene F]

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My grandfather brother pull a stent driving a tanker truck. For premium they used to get up on top of the tanker with a gallon jug of red dye and a ladel before they left on the delivery. Hard to tell if there were additives in there or not. This was like a zillion years ago.

[KULTULZ]

It was most likely EXXON (ESSO) as if you used it the red dye would spit out of the bowl vents and make the top of the carb red.

And then there were the tiger hairs ...

[KULTULZ]

The oil companies are happy to prolong the myth that oil "wears out" when it fact it never wears out. Contaminates are what makes oil unusable and proper filtration captures those contaminates.

How does one renew the detergent/dispersant packages ...

Using bypass filtration there are 18 wheelers that go over 300,000 miles between oil drains.

True, but ...

They are subject to frequent oil analysis, filter changes and make-up oil keeps the detergent/dispersant packages good.

To me, it is a lot cheaper to frequent quality oil/filter changes (especially today's engines) rather that pay repair/replacement costs.

[GLAmes]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

How does one renew the detergent/dispersant packages ...



True, but ...

They are subject to frequent oil analysis, filter changes and make-up oil keeps the detergent/dispersant packages good.

To me, it is a lot cheaper to frequent quality oil/filter changes (especially today's engines) rather that pay repair/replacement costs.

My sample analysis tells me when the additive package is low. It never is, mainly because at a bit over 500,000 miles this engine burns and leaks about a qt ever 2500 miles so the makeup oil, as you stated, renews it. Filter and analysis for me is in the $50 range. I change the filter and do analysis at 15,000 mile intervals. Oil filter and new oil is about $115 and I don't have the advantage in knowing the health of my engine or if there are contaminates present. Without analysis you are more likely to encounter repair/replacement costs. Therefore it is not cheaper to just frequently change the oil.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by GLAmes

Without analysis you are more likely to encounter repair/replacement costs.

True.

Therefore it is not cheaper to just frequently change the oil.

Well, that is a matter of opinion and I don't see an IMO in your statement.

What was being described in the discussion above was HEAVY DIESEL and fleets use that method to save $$$. If an engine or two fails, it is absorbed into operating costs.

Is your vehicle gas or light diesel?

BTW - Good thought on filter change with extended drain intervals ...

[GLAmes]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Well, that is a matter of opinion and I don't see an IMO in your statement.

OK. IMO spending $50 every 15,000 miles costs less than spending $115 every 5000 to 6000 miles.

[GLAmes]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

What was being described in the discussion above was HEAVY DIESEL and fleets use that method to save $$$. If an engine or two fails, it is absorbed into operating costs.

Is your vehicle gas or light diesel?

Actually that method is used by small fleet owner/operators many of whom only have one truck. Large fleets like Swift or Wal-Mart don't do analysis. They just buy new trucks when the old ones get to 600,000 miles or so.

Mine is a medium duty diesel, 5.9 Cummins.

[rotorwrench]

Most modern motor oil has the microscopic polymer plastic added to it so that is will have more viscosity hot that it will when cold. That stuff wears out withing about 3000 miles. Comparing motor lubricants to ATF is not a good idea. Motors make combustion byproducts and transmissions don't.

Transmissions rely on clutch plates and bands to hold against torque so the fluid is made to aid in achieving that goal as well as lubricate bearing surfaces and valves. Clutch plates have evolved a lot over the years. Ford started out with bronze on steel for friction and slowly evolved to composite linings on steel. Most ATF products have friction modifiers to ease the lock up of friction surfaces and make the shift softer and less harsh. Ford Type F has no friction modifiers to speak of and makes for harder and possibly more harsh friction lock up. Ford wanted to make sure that there older designs than still used metal on metal friction lock up would not slip much. Slippage ruins these types of friction plates fairly quick. Racers like fast and hard shifts so type F is still used for that purpose as well.

[Gene F]

Rotorwrench makes a good point. If I may add... In the ATF world I always heard that the Type-F formula was more gripppy, and the new formulas were more slippery BY FAR.

I have been told that when selecting lubricants you should go in this order:
1 select a formula (when in doubt ask the MFG)
2 viscosity
3 a brand you trust
4 consider price

It seems that most people work this list backwards. I know my Dad always did! LOL LOL LOL