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Old Today, 10:29 AM   #1
Magoo2
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Default Frankenengine

I inherited 4 model a engines. All in various stages of disassembly. I have no history on these engines. They are basically taking up space in my shop. I was thinking of taking various pieces off each of the engines and trying to make one running engine as a winter project. My main concern is the crank and Babbitt bearings. What exactly should I be looking for when inspecting them. Iím not looking to having the babbitt repoured and line bored. Am I wasting my time or is this a realistic option?
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Old Today, 10:59 AM   #2
Jack Shaft
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Default Re: Frankenengine

Completely realistic and rewarding if you end up with a runner..it takes study, patience, a certain amount of skill and the ability to use and read measuring tools. Ive found two axioms that help....

1. most engines that come to you partially torn apart were abandoned by the previous mechanic due to damage or cost of repair.

2. about one in every six engines I've torn down are true candidates for re assembly.. the other five end up like the ones you have,half torn apart,waiting shop time or scrap.
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Old Today, 11:19 AM   #3
alexiskai
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Default Re: Frankenengine

If you have the precision measurement tools, you'll be able to assess the crankshaft and bearings decently. The tricky (or at least time-consuming) bit will be detecting cracks in the blocks. Harder without knowing why each one was torn down initially, what the last guy was looking for.
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Old Today, 11:52 AM   #4
Jack Shaft
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Pressure testing is important. vital on V8's..I took the time to run up some block plates..
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Old Today, 04:28 PM   #5
Synchro909
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Default Re: Frankenengine

Lucky you, Magoo 2. 4 engines! I have been looking for a while for a fairly complete engine to rebuild.
As has been said, if you can get a running engine out of what you have, you will get a great sense of achievement. It will take a fair amount of measuring and analysing to get there but you could end up with a decent motor for minimal cost.
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Old Today, 07:34 PM   #6
Jack Shaft
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Babbit flakes and cracks..babbit is tinned to the bearing caps but pinned to the block,dont be alarmed if the babbit is 'loose' on the block side.
The hydrodynamic principle applies,.001 inch clearance per inch of journal, so an oil clearance of .0015 is optimal, though .002 to .0025 will work. Shims can be used if the bearing is tight, main caps can be sanded (evenly) if the bearing is loose. Plastigage is easy to use to check the clearance. When fitting mismatched bearings is important to use prussian blue or impression fluid to determine high spots across the bearings, and scrape them to true..

Fitting bearings is an art, not a science.. don't ship a bound crank, keep check and fitting till it turns free.by the same token, dont ship a crank thats too loose,if its above .003 it needs sanding at the minimum, repoured at the worst..mains poured by a reputable shop price varies,out here in the peoples republic of california it cost 750 the last time I had it done.

I have 6 a engines, 1 b and 2 diamond b's..the diamonds stay,the rest can go..
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