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Old 07-17-2023, 03:37 PM   #21
1930artdeco
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Default Re: New to A's...

I have found these three electrical things will kill/or make it really hard to start/run:
-bad ground
-dead/dying condenser
-point not adjusted correctly.

This is all assuming the fuel system is clean runs freely. If it sat, clean the tank and install a pencil filter. For safety, make sure you replace the original steel 2 blade fan-they have a bad habit of taking off your head, radiator, hood without warning. Enjoy the car and please post some pictures.

Mike
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Old 07-17-2023, 07:31 PM   #22
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I don't think the forum will let me post pics yet.Let me try..

This morning, using the directions given she fired off and had no issues. I drove it about 4 miles, to the local 1890s General store and down a dirt road to a local lake.
The more I drive it the more the old girl seems to like it...being set up in a barn or shed must've been like jail.
Told my wife, as today was my day off, I had to take my vitamins, vitamin "A" in particular, before I could do any honey do's today.
This car might be the death of me yet 😂
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Old 07-17-2023, 09:22 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by five-oh View Post
I don't think the forum will let me post pics yet.Let me try..

This morning, using the directions given she fired off and had no issues. I drove it about 4 miles, to the local 1890s General store and down a dirt road to a local lake.
The more I drive it the more the old girl seems to like it...being set up in a barn or shed must've been like jail.
Told my wife, as today was my day off, I had to take my vitamins, vitamin "A" in particular, before I could do any honey do's today.
This car might be the death of me yet 😂
The bug has bitten!
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Old 07-17-2023, 10:07 PM   #24
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five-oh: I've owned three Model As in the last five years, and every one of them sat for extended periods of time (years) before I acquired them. All three are now smoothly running, but it was a challenge. Here's a synopsis of what I did to all of them to get them that way:

1. Drain all the old fuel out (take the fuel line loose at the carburetor, attach a 1/4" plastic hose, then drain into a gas can parked between the front bumper brackets). Put a couple of gallons of fresh fuel in. Pour old fuel in another car with a large gas tank to dilute it.

2. Drain the coolant. Flush the engine and radiator with hose water if the coolant comes out in chunks. In one case I had to pull the radiator and have it rodded out. Replace the radiator hoses and clamps with new.

3. Drain the oil, tranny fluid and differential fluid. Replace.

4. Pull the distributor, check for proper continuities, file and if needed replace the points. Reset the gap to 0.020".

5. Pull the plugs, clean them and replace if necessary. Gap to 0.035". Verify that you get spark at the points when the engine rotates (you may need to diddle around with condenser, coil and battery at this point - be sure the battery is charged up and all connections are good.)

6. Buff up the contact points on the rotor and distributor body. Verify 0.025" gap between the rotor and the body, adjust if necessary.

7. Reset the timing. Verify that you get spark at the distributor body, you may need to get a clear distributor cap to see the spark.

8. Drop the bottom bowl on the carburetor and check for excessive crud in the bowl. If everything looks dirty, pull the carburetor, clean everything and reset float bowl shutoff. If you rebuild, use the existing jets if possible as there is quite a bit of question about the repop jets currently available, and you can likely assume that your car ran with the existing jets before.

9. Check the vacuum line to be sure it isn't leaking. You can temporarily install a plug in the manifold if needed.

10. Fill the tires with air.

11. Start it up, drive it and verify it doesn't overheat, then drive it some more.

12. Drive it more.

13. Keep driving it.

14. Change the oil again at about 100 miles, then 500 miles.

It will get smoother as you drive it. Keep checking fluid levels to be sure you aren't losing any, and if you are, that will open up other avenues to explore.

15+ HAVE FUN!
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Old 07-17-2023, 10:54 PM   #25
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Default Re: New to A's...

Like most things Model A, this has been for me, the most meaningful site I have come across. That and joining the Local Model A Ford Club of America, and/or the Model A Restorers Club will get you another group of friends and two magazines with a wealth of information in them. I belong to both National Clubs and Mafca local (Livermore, CA ie. Henry's A's. I use this site almost every time I find a shudder or sputter and these guys keep me running smoothly.
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Old 07-18-2023, 12:11 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by five-oh View Post
I don't think the forum will let me post pics yet.Let me try..

This morning, using the directions given she fired off and had no issues. I drove it about 4 miles, to the local 1890s General store and down a dirt road to a local lake.
The more I drive it the more the old girl seems to like it...being set up in a barn or shed must've been like jail.
Told my wife, as today was my day off, I had to take my vitamins, vitamin "A" in particular, before I could do any honey do's today.
This car might be the death of me yet 😂
That car is a beauty! Your wife may be jealous. If you are like me, you can't walk away from the Model "A" without stopping at least once to look back.
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Old 07-18-2023, 01:35 PM   #27
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Default Re: New to A's...

You do not say where you are located. To find a Model A Club Chapter nearest to you, go to MAFCA.COM, on the menu bar click on site index, click on your State, and you will find the nearest chapter.
You will find folks who can help you.
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Old 07-18-2023, 11:34 PM   #28
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I noticed while looking that the radiator hoses are well past their "use by" date and are showing cracks. I was keyed up to order more and, while digging around, lifted the front seat cushion. There lay a brand new, still sealed in a plastic bag set of red lined radiator hoses. So they'll be going on real soon...I have no desire to be on the side of the road with a blown hose.
The horn works about like I do- rarely and when it wants, so I suspect there may be a ground issue with it.
I'm swearing this will not be a project, and indeed cannot let it be until the '52 Chevy truck is finished being painted and some clean up done on another antique, but I can see this can easily become another obsession.....
five-oh,
I was thinking today of you finding the radiator hoses under the seat. Just beware that the thermostat on A's (if yours has a thermostat), is usually in the upper radiator hose. Some people throw away their hose not realizing that there's a thermostat in there. It's up to you whether you run one or not, another multi-page debate you can search on this forum.
By the way, my Dad had a '50 Chevy pickup with a 216 six. I miss that truck. They still used an enclosed propeller shaft like the A has, thought they would have got rid of that by 1950.
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Old 07-19-2023, 10:52 AM   #29
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five-oh,
I was thinking today of you finding the radiator hoses under the seat. Just beware that the thermostat on A's (if yours has a thermostat), is usually in the upper radiator hose. Some people throw away their hose not realizing that there's a thermostat in there. It's up to you whether you run one or not, another multi-page debate you can search on this forum.
By the way, my Dad had a '50 Chevy pickup with a 216 six. I miss that truck. They still used an enclosed propeller shaft like the A has, thought they would have got rid of that by 1950.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. In regards to the truck-I removed that shaft and put a newer model open drive rear end in so I could better keep up with traffic. The '52, along with its stablemate, a '46 Chevy truck street rod, have been practically daily drivers for years.
It sure was difficult to head to work this morning in my work car, with the A sitting there all but begging for a drive. But it will be over 100 degrees today, and I don't wanna get too carried away until the maintenance is done. LOL
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Old 07-20-2023, 04:11 PM   #30
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If I wanted a slightly wider tire I would go with wire wheels from 1935 (second photo) or the aftermarket Kelsey bent spokes (first photo). These will both go onto the stock mechanical brake drums without adapters. Solid rims require adapters if used on the stock mechanical brake drums. In either case I would use the reproduction 1932 4 cylinder hubcaps (third photo) on the wire wheels. Note if you have a side mounted spare you will probably need to let some air out and carry a tire pump.

Charlie Stephens
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Old 07-20-2023, 10:40 PM   #31
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If I wanted a slightly wider tire I would go with wire wheels from 1935 (second photo) or the aftermarket Kelsey bent spokes (first photo). These will both go onto the stock mechanical brake drums without adapters. Solid rims require adapters if used on the stock mechanical brake drums. In either case I would use the reproduction 1932 4 cylinder hubcaps (third photo) on the wire wheels. Note if you have a side mounted spare you will probably need to let some air out and carry a tire pump.

Charlie Stephens
Thanks! I don't have side mounted spares...I'll keep an eye out for some '35 wires just in case. I've got a set of '52 Ford F1 wheels, but they are at another property and I have not had time to see if the bolt pattern was the same. Sounds like it'd need adaptors at any rate.
I'm afraid if I start with solid rims, I'll find myself wanting to build a period hotrod out of it. As much as I would love that, I think it'd take away alot of the charm for me. There's just something about driving a nearly 100 year old car exactly as it was designed that captivates me. I can't see me wanting to throw that away.
My wife would like me to put in the a/c kit that's been mentioned at somepoint. I might concede to that, just so she will ride with me. It's more fun to share a hobby wiith your best friend and biggest supporter.
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Old 07-21-2023, 10:13 AM   #32
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Thanks all, especially 1955cj5, that attachment is helpful. Showing my ignorance what is "GAV"?
I've used the choke , but didn't realize there was an adjustment on it by turning the knob too...
Sorry for the dumbness, but I'd owned it two minutes before I drove it 15 miles home, and wound up putting about 50-60 miles on it yesterday. Lots of fun, but alot of concentration needed- it makes my mostly stock '52 Chevrolet pickup appear to drive like a new Caddy in comparison. lol
Yep, best of both Worlds, enjoy the new car.
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Old 07-21-2023, 10:29 AM   #33
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I've got a set of '52 Ford F1 wheels, but they are at another property and I have not had time to see if the bolt pattern was the same
They have the same bolt pattern, don't remember if they would be 15" or 16" wheels.
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Old 07-21-2023, 11:28 PM   #34
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They have the same bolt pattern, don't remember if they would be 15" or 16" wheels.
Thanks! I *think* these are 16s. Been a couple of years- I saved them and the rear end and front end when we subframed and street rodded a friend's '52. I had intentions of keeping the Merc flathead from it as well, but someone waved long wheel based tens in front of my friend when I wasn't around and carted it off. I only hope it found a home in a traditional styled rod....
Just as well- if I had it I mighta been tempted.
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Old 07-21-2023, 11:31 PM   #35
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Yep, best of both Worlds, enjoy the new car.
Beautiful A and I love the '57. Always wanted a tri-five, but thus far the right opportunity hasn't presented itself.
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Old 07-22-2023, 08:45 AM   #36
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I've reached out to a couple of guys I know who have model A's and I'm trying to locate a local or semi local club now. Hopefully, there's a chapter or model a specific club around I can join up with and learn a bit.
Absolutely love it so far and hope to get it dependable enough to drive a distance. Running the back roads at 45 is my kind of relaxation, and I'm fortunate to live in an area (north central Arkansas) with a lot of back roads to explore.
five-oh, The obvious enjoyment you're having with your "Model A" shows that these vehicles and caretakers have the power to add smiles to your day! Welcome to the Model A Ford obsession.
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Old 07-22-2023, 09:45 AM   #37
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A momentary choke is better than continuing to choke. Easy to flood the carb. One, or a couple of revolutions, should be adequate on a cold engine. Hunt up the local club, good advice. Wisdom lives at the local club, and your car will benefit.

Very well said. When we first got our car, I had a habit of overchoking it and flooding the carburetor. Now I crank for about a second, pull the choke, release the choke in about a second, and the car catches almost immediately. That was not intuitive to me at all. (It’s embarrassing not to be able to start your toy in front of people. [emoji13])


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Old 07-22-2023, 12:50 PM   #38
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I am also new to Model A's (since last Dec.). I have found that once the right combination is learned on starting the model A, it will start incredibly easy and right away. Which is something people notice about such an old vehicle starting so quickly, and they always comment. "Wow, that starts fast".
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