Swap to ‘47 rear hubs on ‘35?

[AnthonyG]

In process of converting to Hydraulic brakes on my ‘35. I have a set of ‘47 rear hubs, my question is do the ‘47 hubs attach using same hardware, seal, bearings etc. as the ‘35?

[Brian]

Yes, even same 5.5 on on 5 stud pattern, however the original 35 wires don't mount correctly on the later drums.
Your [existing?] 35 drums will fit right up to the 47 backing plates

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Brian

Yes, even same 5.5 on on 5 stud pattern, however the original 35 wires don't mount correctly on the later drums.
Your [existing?] 35 drums will fit right up to the 47 backing plates

Even Dick Spadaro (RIP) said the '35s will work! DD


DICK SPADARO
Senior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Altamont, NY
Posts: 1,004

Default Re: 1935 brake drums for hydraulic conversion?

The 35 drum will work correctly. The only issue is with the wheel mounting. If you intend to use the stock 35 wires its a bolt on. If you intend to use aftermarket wheels or 40-48 style steel wheels, the wire wheel support nubs on the 35 drum must be ground off so the late model wheels fit flush to the hub. Most important is that the drums should not be turned more that .080 oversize.

[AnthonyG]

Thx Brian & Coop. Dick Spadaro tip on using ‘35 drums w or w/o the stock ‘35 wires is great to! I will be using my ‘35 wire wheels so will leave nubs on rear stocks if ID is OK! What’s the actual OD correct size as a ref. For what more than .080 over is

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Thx Brian & Coop. Dick Spadaro tip on using ‘35 drums w or w/o the stock ‘35 wires is great to! I will be using my ‘35 wire wheels so will leave nubs on rear stocks if ID is OK! What’s the actual OD correct size as a ref. For what more than .080 over is

Stock, they are 12"

[AnthonyG]

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Thx Tim!

[AnthonyG]

I remember in a thread on using stock 40-47 hubs on Juice Brake conversion replacing the studs requires special attention when removing stock originals which are s wedged in place. Concern over just pressing out of bending plate where studs are mounted. Anyone have the correct method not to bend?

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

I remember in a thread on using stock 40-47 hubs on Juice Brake conversion replacing the studs requires special attention when removing stock originals which are s wedged in place. Concern over just pressing out of bending plate where studs are mounted. Anyone have the correct method not to bend?

Here's the link to that thread: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ht=wheel+studs

Here's my post from that thread:

You'll need a good 5/8 hole saw bit, cutting fluid, a good bright light and a strong drill.

The gist is you slide the hole saw down over the studs and slowly turn it with the drill. While watching, you'll see the swedge break loose from the hub. This is why the good, bright light is important. Stop drilling at that point. Go on to the next one.

Once all five are cut free, time to knock them out. I like to use a 10 lb. hand held mason's sledge. I also like to place an old piece of rail road track under the hub flange while driving the old ones out. Helps to keep a ham handed mechanic from bending the hub flange.

Use the studs Boling Bros. recommends on their site. Get the studs from Rock Auto. Best prices I've found. Just type in the Dorman part # in their search box.

You will need to ream out the stud holes on the hubs slightly. Once the hub is reamed (I forget how much larger, but go slow) To install the new, ridged studs, either buy a stud installer tool from a place from Rock Auto or use a large grade 8 washer placed over the stud. Run a lug nut down and tighten it with an impact. The gun will pull the stud into place and the ridges will "lock" it in.

It seems complicated and I was nervous the first time I did it. One you do one, it will make perfect sense and the job is fairly simple.

[AnthonyG]

Tim Thx again, that’s it & thx for your advice from that thread & memory refresher required as I get older , been a long time & finally starting project after neck surgery recovery!

[rotorwrench]

Spacers are available to allow use of the later hydraulic brake drums with the welded spoke Ford wire wheels. The early drums are getting harder to come by.

[AnthonyG]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Spacers are available to allow use of the later hydraulic brake drums with the welded spoke Ford wire wheels. The early drums are getting harder to come by.

Thx, I’ll be using them on the fronts with the Bendix hydraulic conversion.

[AnthonyG]

Checked early Ford Store & found what they call pair of drums kit ( includes correct studs to use on hubs). Created another question. EFS note on kit says must use 40- 42 hubs, I thought 40 to 48 hubs ok, as long as years where drum is attached to hub is separated & new studs used?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Checked early Ford Store & found what they call pair of drums kit ( includes correct studs to use on hubs). Created another question. EFS note on kit says must use 40- 42 hubs, I thought 40 to 48 hubs ok, as long as years where drum is attached to hub is separated & new studs used?

Anthony ....I believe the full scope of what you are trying to do has just hit me. Are you PLANNING on using 1947 Ford hubs all around (4 corners), separating them from their original drums, and replacing the original FOUR (4) drums with Boling Brothers/MT Lincoln drums?

IF that is (was) your plan, it ain't gonna work. The 1947 HUBS will fit your rear axle and the new spindles you talked about, BUT...the repro drums will NOT fit '42-'48 HUBS! The repro drums fit the hub with the hub FLANGE on the INSIDE of the drum, just like '40 & '41 drum/hubs are configured.

1942 thru '48 hub/drums are assembled with the hub's FLANGE on the OUTSIDE of the drum. The reproduction drums will NOT fit or work with the '42-'48 hubs. Gotta be '40 & '41 ONLY! Below, you'll see the difference between the two, different drum/hub types....'40-'41 on TOP, and '42-'48 on BOTTOM.

As far as the studs to use with the Boling Bros. drums, BB/MT suggests right on their site to use the following:

"These can also be used with original 1940-1941 Ford front and rear hubs by removing the original drum and studs, reaming the stud holes to .600, and installing Dorman 610-234 studs."


1940-1941





1942-1948






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[AnthonyG]

🤔, thx Coop for the Edu.. Are the ‘47 backing plates ok for rear? As I was only using the Ford brakes on rear & I’m getting the correct Bendix Faceplate kit & Drums from Early Ford Store. After seeing the pics I’m not sure which hubs I have as I bought 3-4 years ago & they were removed from drums as bought. As at the time I didn’t know there was a difference in the 40-41 & later drum hub config I made an assumption ( I know “assume makes an ass out of u & me”) in this case just me . As ur pic shows the face of flanges completely rusty on the 42-48 ( makes sense as exposed to elements ). I thought it odd when I got mine they weren’t weathered at all & while had some rust but mostly shiny machined finish as though that surface might have been stuck to inside face of drum. Is there a way to tell which I have? Maybe luckier than smart !

[AnthonyG]

Think I just realized & am lucky. The hubs I have must be 40-41’s as they still have the studs pressed in with the swedge marks above threads Tim talks about.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Think I just realized & am lucky. The hubs I have must be 40-41’s as they still have the studs pressed in with the swedge marks above threads Tim talks about.

OK, these are 1940-'41 front hubs. The flat surface you see in the TOP picture goes against the INSIDE of the drum. The back side (big bearing end) is all 'lumpy' in the BOTTOM picture with stud heads and such, and has the "01A-1106 forged into it.

Yes, you can use the '47 backing plates AND hub/drum on the rear as is. Lots of guys are doing exactly that....running the Bendix on front, along with the Ford Lockheeds on the rear, and braking action is just fine, as the fronts do the majority of the braking anyway! DD






__________________________________________________ ____

'42-'48 hubs always have that square notch somewhere around the circumference. Note the drums have 5 (FIVE) raised areas that fit against the hub's flange.

If you look closely (2nd picture), you can see the FIVE marks on the INSIDE of the flange, where the drum fit-up to the rear side of the flange, as well as that square notch again. DD













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[AnthonyG]

Thx again DD, great pics! Perfect understanding now! Thx a bunch for the help / knowledge. While I am on Vacation & not @ the car location now, as I’ve recently started the conversion process (still very early) I have a vivid memory of the rear hubs in my inventorying. Per your pics they’re definitely the 40-41 type as pictured separated from drums as shown but still have the original studs with swedge marks below the thread!