LED Turnsignals

[bobbersax]

Is it possible to wire LED replacement tailights (the one piece inserts) to a turn signal unit instead of putting additional lights between the two rear bumpers?

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by bobbersax

Is it possible to wire LED replacement tailights (the one piece inserts) to a turn signal unit instead of putting additional lights between the two rear bumpers?

Yes, but ... you will need to split the brake signal that originally is shared by both taillights into two separate circuits (I did that at the brake light switch), plus depending on the flasher you might need to put a resistor in the flasher circuit to enable the flasher. If the flasher is supposed to enable the stand-alone LED lights it should work OK with the LED taillight inserts.

JayJay

[Patrick L.]

Yep.

Fairly easy conversion. 'A' vendors such as Brattons have the turn switch and LED rear bulbs. The LEDs make a big difference.

There may now be a 6v electronic flasher that actually works, but, I haven't found one.
I use a normal thermal 535 flasher and just install higher candlepower incandescents in the cowls and/or front park lights [as turns] to fire the flasher. [ I'm not one to solder resistors in the rear wires]. I mounted an extra original tail light on the spare tire for a third stop light.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Yep.

Fairly easy conversion. 'A' vendors such as Brattons have the turn switch and LED rear bulbs. The LEDs make a big difference.

There may now be a 6v electronic flasher that actually works, but, I haven't found one.
I use a normal thermal 535 flasher and just install higher candlepower incandescents in the cowls and/or front park lights [as turns] to fire the flasher. [ I'm not one to solder resistors in the rear wires]. I mounted an extra original tail light on the spare tire for a third stop light.

Patrick - did you come up with your own bracket for the third light? Would be interested to see a photo of it. Sounds like a good idea. Thanks.

JayJay

[DRG-ler]

You simply have to exchange the Ba15s socket of the "large" light chamber for a Ba15d socket. You can then use a two-filament light bulb for the stop light and taillight. The turn signal lamp then goes into the small light chamber. That's how the problem was solved for me.

Andy

[Bill G]

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Yes

[nkaminar]

If you are using the same LED bulb for the brake light and the turn indicator then, while braking and indicating a turn, one bulb will stay constantly on while the other will blink. For that to happen, the brake light wire will have to be run through the turn indicator switch. There are instructions that come with the turn indicator switch for how to wire it.

I have tired to use the LED flasher relay but so far have been unsuccessful. I installed the resistors that are sold for this application. However, I researched the flasher relays and found that the LED flasher relay that I bought is wired differently. I am going to use some jumper wires to test the LED flasher relay and it it works then rewire the relay socket.


The little lights in my indicator switch do not flash when the switch is activated. Another thing to figure out and fix.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by JayJay

Patrick - did you come up with your own bracket for the third light? Would be interested to see a photo of it. Sounds like a good idea. Thanks.

JayJay

I don't think I have a photo, I'll have to look. I'm 1300 miles from the car until May.

I just formed a license plate bracket to the spare tire and belted it in place.

The lens even has STOP formed in it.




For the turn switch I usually have Signalstat switches on hand. Some don't like the look of them hanging on the column, but, you get used to it. I still have 3 electronic flashers that were said to work on 6v, they don't, and, are actually listed as 12v. Plus electronic flashers don't seem to get along well with our dirty generator output.

I changed to LED rear lights quite some time ago due to a gal in a 1956 Bel-Air rear ending me. I used the original lite housings and it made a huge difference. Plus I got tired of the soccer moms giving me the middle finger salute and the horn because they don't know about hand signals.

[DRG-ler]

The problem with the flashers for LEDs is that not only the 6V are decisive. You also have to make sure that you use some for positive ground! The modern flasher units for LEDs work electronically, and they have problems if you swap plus and minus.

In the meantime, I had considered converting to LED indicators because they are quite bright. But since my alternator delivers 87 amps of current, I didn't care. But there is an important reason to use LEDs. If you stay in the dark and the engine is no longer running, it makes a very big difference whether the hazard warning lights use 15 amps or just 0.25 amps! At 15 amps, the battery won't last long.

The little lights in my indicator switch do not flash when the switch is activated. Another thing to figure out and fix.

Are there any LEDs installed that cannot cope with the positive ground?

For the turn switch I usually have Signalstat switches on hand. Some don't like the look of them hanging on the column, but, you get used to it.

I also got an old turn signal switch for the steering column. One from Arrow Safety Device from around 1920. Fits the car and makes driving more pleasant for me. I'm so used to modern cars.

[Patrick L.]

Yep, some/most electronic STUFF is polarity sensitive.

I've recently [ last few years] seen 6v positive grd electronic flashers from England. If they work with Lucas stuff then maybe they'll work with ours.

A more time appropriate turn switch would be a nice addition.

[AL in NY]

Folks, here is an electronic flasher that works with LED taillights. I have been using it for over a year with no problems. Just make sure you tie the 3rd wire to a good ground.

[DRG-ler]

Which problems?