1930 CC pickup subrail

[CPDSarge]

My pickup cab was apparently hacked together from a tudor cowl and subframe. The subframe is no longer useable. The catalogs say to use a repro tudor subframe for a replacement and cut it off. Does anyone out there have a drawing, photo, blueprint dimensions etc. of at least the rear end of the subrail? Any and all info is appreciated. Would be great to get the last foot or so of an original subrail to use as a pattern. Thanks, JM

[KenBolton]

I just lined mine up with the body and frame holes and cut it. Don’t forget it also has to fit into and bolt to the rear body crossmember. Usually they need to be replaced too.

[larry harding]

i had to do the same with my 31 p u. after some guess work i did the best i could there are two sort of triangle shaped pieces that aren't available either. they tie the frame to thhe cab back if i remember correctly. after two or three attemps i fabricated them good enough to work and they aren't noticeable unless you are looking for them.

[Mikeinnj]

email me at [email protected] I have a friend that has photos and drawings of what you need. He rebuilt my moth eaten subframe perfectly.

[bhurlin]

Mikeinnj do you have dimensions.

[email protected]

[Conaway2]

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Originally Posted by CPDSarge

My pickup cab was apparently hacked together from a tudor cowl and subframe. The subframe is no longer useable. The catalogs say to use a repro tudor subframe for a replacement and cut it off. Does anyone out there have a drawing, photo, blueprint dimensions etc. of at least the rear end of the subrail? Any and all info is appreciated. Would be great to get the last foot or so of an original subrail to use as a pattern. Thanks, JM

I have no idea how badly rusted the subframe on your A is, but you may be able to salvage it.

The rear subframe on my ‘29 coupe was about half rusted away in some places. I was able to fabricate U-channel sections using 16-gauge sheet metal and an 18” metal brake from Harbor Freight and weld these in where needed. I also bolted angle iron braces in using category 8 bolts and tack welded these in also. Most of the reinforcements I added were on the underside of the subrail, so not very visible.

I am not experienced in sheet metal work, but found making these repairs was fairly easy to do.

The coupe body is now pretty sturdy - probably stronger than it was when manufactured.

Good luck !
Jim