08-19-2014, 12:53 PM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ocean Shores WA.
Posts: 20
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motor mount
Finally towed the 1928 leatherback out of the hills and into the garage,the front motor mount is direct to the frame. With the A ,was a book about 1928 A only and it said to change the mount to the new unit have to cut frame .What is best go with standard or float mount how about the back mount?
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08-19-2014, 01:03 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
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Re: motor mount
Get the service bulletins p294 and follow the instruction for the cutting of the cross member. If you are so inclined you can replace the cross member and sell off the e28 members as they are not that common.
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08-19-2014, 01:28 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: California, Maryland
Posts: 1,421
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Re: motor mount
Why are you changing it ? I have the same mount in two of my cars that are just fine.. Just make sure every now & then that all is tight front & rear..
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08-19-2014, 02:36 PM | #4 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fresno, Ca.
Posts: 3,636
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Re: motor mount
Quote:
is your intent with the car? It is more unique with a stock, uncut front cross member. This coming from an early 28 guy, as well as Fred #3 above. Don't cut it! |
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08-19-2014, 03:02 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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Re: motor mount
I would leave it like it is !!! As for replacing the old crossmember with the later style crossmember, the rivet holes are different. Modifing the original would probably require removing the engine. In my opinion, float-A-motor mounts cause more problems than they ever solve.
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08-19-2014, 03:58 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ocean Shores WA.
Posts: 20
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Re: motor mount
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08-19-2014, 04:00 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Re: motor mount
I'm sure glad no one cut my 1928 solid mounts.
I have no problems with vibrations due to the solid mounts. |
08-19-2014, 04:06 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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Re: motor mount
The early front crossmembers are a hot item. I paid over two hundred bucks for a cracked one, over ten years ago and had to repair -weld it before it could be useable.
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08-19-2014, 09:37 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
Posts: 467
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Re: motor mount
We have a solid engine mount front crossmember in our '28 roadster - it runs just as smoothly as the other cars that have the later front engine mount. I agree with the folks above in advocating that you leave the front crossmember alone. And I also agree with Purdy about the rear float-a-motor mounts. I've had both and have gone back to the original mounts in two of the three that are currently going, and our mail truck (still undergoing restoration) is coming back up with the original rear mounts as well.
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08-20-2014, 12:28 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: St Charles , Missouri
Posts: 1,998
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Re: motor mount
I brought a '28 chassis to sell to the MARC Oshkosh meet in 2012 that had solid front mounts. I was amazed how smooth it was.. My since passed mentor and friend Terry Oberer and I drove it around the grounds. We had a blast. Well functioning multidisc clutches and properly installed rear mounts really were pretty good. I would always prefer to preserve the correct features of the period of the car. As Purdy said, changing a crossmember is no small task... and in the end would probably cause more pain than it's worth.
glad your keeping it as is! Happy Model A Motoring! Larry Shepard |
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