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08-27-2011, 10:26 AM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 21
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1931 Victoria Wood
I am about to start on the wood in my 1931 Victoria. I worked on it years ago and really didn't know what I was doing. Now I need to go back and get it right. Does anyone have any tips and or pictures of the wood installation?
Thanks, Mike |
08-27-2011, 11:12 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 125
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Re: 1931 Victoria Wood
Mike,
If you send me your direct email address I can send you alot of pictures of my victoria. It is still open and I can photograph all the wood for you. [email protected]
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08-27-2011, 01:36 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
Posts: 3,740
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Re: 1931 Victoria Wood
FWIW, I am doing the complete wood on my TS (Town Sedan) I can only offer these suggestions;
I am using the original type of wood that Henry used, Ash. There's Walnut in there too, but I'm looking past that. Dried ash is pretty light and strong, they make axe handles out of it. Get a Vernier caliper to measure the old wood with and duplicate everything to within .005. Yes, you can do it! Here and there you may miss it now and then, but you'll have a much better job if you try. Watch your angles! Many pieces have very subtle angles on them of 1 or 2 degrees. You may not notice them at first. You will need to measure and duplicate them pretty close. Getting a 12" scale with a protracter head will help immensily. They're usually available in flea markets for a few dollars. Most radii will have to be taken off old pieces or measured directly from the curves in the body. Making wood patterns will be helpful. Dont't drill any bolt holes till you're sure everything fits and in the case of doors, does not exceed the original size. You may need to skim off, say, .030 of a side of a piece. The way I do it is to make a rip fence for my saw out of a 2x4 and position it wher I want it with only .030 of the blade sticking out of the side, This is with the blade depresed below the deck height of the saw. I clamp it into position (The 2x4), start the saw and bring the blade upwards into the 2X4. With a 3/32 or .093 blade. 1/16th or .060 will be in the rip fence and .030 of the blade will be exposed. Just run your piece along the rip fence and viola! It will take .030 of your piece. I hope this helps! You will need at last a 3x18 belt sander which can be gotten in a flea market for $10-$15. A good place for belts is Royce Sales in Canada. Google Royce Sales Terry Last edited by Terry, NJ; 08-27-2011 at 01:58 PM. |
08-27-2011, 03:46 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 125
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Re: 1931 Victoria Wood
Terry,
Didn't you buy a wood kit or are you building from scratch?
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08-27-2011, 06:12 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ridgefield, Ct
Posts: 3,439
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Re: 1931 Victoria Wood
Are joints glued & screwed or just screwed?
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08-28-2011, 01:08 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
Posts: 3,740
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Re: 1931 Victoria Wood
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Terry |
08-28-2011, 01:21 AM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
Posts: 3,740
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Re: 1931 Victoria Wood
I don't know, Haven't got to joining them yet. That question has been on my mind too. I think at least the Mortise and Tenons will be glued and screwed. I don't know what glue to use. Elmers Carpenters glue might stand up but after a while I don't know what rough roads will do to it. Also, How about putting non hardening silicon in behind the wood to "Bed" it against squeaking later? Just a thought!
Terry |
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