Turn signal switch debate - which one

[burner31]

I'm pulling the trigger on installing turn signals, going to use a 3rd brake light/turn signal in the back window along with the two mounted in the rear bumpers and converting the cowl lights for use as turn/driving lights.

My big decision is what type of switch to use:
The big unit with 4-way flashers
The small more classical look
or
The hidden type

What do you use, can you post some pics so I can get an idea of what each would look like installed.

Getting way too many close calls not to do this...not to do something

[msmaron]

Turnswitch.com. Hands down, no question at all, all hidden, independent, no flashers etc... Have used it now on 7 cars and never failed me.!

[Patrick L.]

I use signalstat units because I have them and have used them for everything for decades. They just eventually blend is and become invisible after awhile. On older vehicles I use a woven wire loom just to help them blend in.

I also use the regular lights and now install LEDs. [ after being rear-ended]

But, its your vehicle to do with it as you wish. There is no right or wrong way. [ Well, there can be a wrong way if the lights don't end up working. Hehehehe]

[CarlG]

I opted for the SignalStat 900 as modified by Sacramento Vintage that has the period correct woven wire loom. I use dual filament bulbs in the cowl lights on the front (park & turn), United Pacific full red LED tail/stop/turn lights on the rear with an LED 3rd brake light as well.

I can't see myself while driving, but I have been told by others that I am very well lit up, and that my intentions are very clear.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by msmaron

Turnswitch.com. Hands down, no question at all, all hidden, independent, no flashers etc... Have used it now on 7 cars and never failed me.!

I have been following along on most of the discussions on turn signals and debating to "build my own" but I really am impressed with the Electro-Tech after reading their ad. I like the fact of using a small switch and mounting it under the dash rail instead of mounting a big a$$ switch on the column. Thanks for the link.

[Tacoma Bob]

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I think mine are Logo lites. I really like them EXCEPT! the activate box is "hidden" on the far left just under the dash rail. In my case it's a real drag while finishing my turn and having to fumble my left arm/hand trying to hit the tiny buttons and still keep my eyes on the road.

[1931 flamingo]

I used the one in your top picture, only it's black so it "blends" in, covered the wires with the loom avail from the vendors, everything else is behind the driver's kick panel.
Paul in CT

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Tacoma Bob

In my case it's a real drag while finishing my turn and having to fumble my left arm/hand trying to hit the tiny buttons and still keep my eyes on the road.

That's another reason I like the Electro-Tech system Mark suggested. They self cancel.

[redmodelt]

I have an old Signalstat 600 (no 4 way) on my T, it just there and easy to reach and use right under the steering wheel. I would not use the chrome one only because it just looks over the hill bling for a model A. The same model painted in a matching color would be fine. My OP is you put turn signals on a car why hide the switch where you have to fumble for it. By the 50's turn signal would have been a fairly common up grade. Even my 48 F2 has turn signals, don't know if my great uncle added them or the dealer.
If the one you install is not self canceling, add a buzzer. They are cheep and easy to install.

[ccb360]

On my car I recently installed a Signal-Stat 900 which has a DOT rating. The unit included the cowl light mod which allows retention of the parking light function and adds the directional signaling without modifying the cowl lights (use the brighter 10 cp bulbs). Rear tail light brake lamps (21cp) are switched in similar fashion vice just the small parking lamp. I have been satisfied with operation of the unit mounted on the steering column where the handle is easily cancelled while turning the wheel back to center w/o taking hands off the wheel. The unit’s body is black so it blends in. Wiring instructions with the Signal-Stat are good and easily understood. I also installed the old man option (chime) which is annoying but effective. Discussions with the supplier (Brattons) before the purchase was helpful.

I had earlier bought the one you have pictured with the green lamp on the handle end but it did not have the 4-way flasher feature and did not look substantial so it went back.

Good luck...Charles

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by redmodelt

you put turn signals on a car why hide the switch where you have to fumble for it.

Because the big old switch on the steering column is Fugly???

[Mike V. Florida]

This is like a "best oil" discussion.

There are many commercial units available as well as drawings for the "do it yourself-er".

You need to list what is important to you and in the order of importance. Things like;

Cost
ease of installation and use
"hidden" to keep originality.
Ability to be seen when is use.
Etc.

Once you have these things listed you can look and see what fits or else you are going to see here every single unit that is available and is in use in a Model A and you will get no where.

[Kahuna]

Forever4
Why don't you care for the parking/cowl lamps as turn indicators?
I use them on my 32 and they seem fine.
Just wondering?
Jim

Forever4, that's a fabulous web site. Thanks

[Mike]

In my opinion Bratton's hidden switch unit is a very nice setup, I have installed over 10 units so far and everyone is happy with them.

Mike

[Bruce Adams]

I use a knock off Signal Stat 900, available from Gaslight for around $20, using my cowl lamps which are QUITE EFFECTIVE, as noted by the MANY Long Island Drivers waving me to make a left while at a light, day or night. (Front lamps are not used for too much when you think about it) I have a third brake light and LED tail and brake lights, BOTH RED, since, frankly, trying to educate the world to amber and red combinations is tougher than conforming to a both red world. My rear LED combo is a bright as those of a modern car. Turn signals are an absolute necessity to change from left to right lanes an expressways, since NO ONE knows what hand signals are anymore. I also have a "reminder buzzer" on my signals since they do not self correct after turning. A black Signal Stat is Butt Ugly but looks lie an era signal and is, for me, convenient.

[MikeK]

As to whether a cowl lamp is effective as a turn signal has nothing to do with how bright or visible it is when YOU are watching it. DOT regs do not permit signals mounted back from the vehicle face for a reason. It has to do with how the common driver's unconscious brain interprets visual signals. The average driver only responds to visual ques emanating from the front (or rear) of a vehicle. Flashing lights back from the front face may be bright as hexx but the split-second driving mode brain ignores the visual signal.

The same brain training holds true for glancing in the rear view mirrors. Driver brains are unconsciously trained in ignore visual images of anything not as wide or shaped like a car. Prudent motorcyclists are aware of this peril.

[Bob Bidonde]

Here are some considerations for turn signals and additional brake lights:
>Modern cars are low to the ground, so auxiliary brake lights and turn signals need to be positioned at a height so they are very noticeable by to a modern car driver. The rear window of Model "As" is too high;
>Be sure that the turn signal switch is electrically grounded;
>Incandescent bulbs are not bright enough to get the attention of modern drivers, so use LEDs;
>On 1930 & '31 Model "As," the amber light is confusing to modern drivers, so red LED brake lights send a message that is understandable as STOP or SLOW DOWN;
>Use a noisy signal flasher so you remember to turn the signal OFF when appropriate.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

For unobtrusive turn signal lamps in the front of the car, purchase the new correctly-shaped reflectors from Brattons that are for the double lamps ( -vehicles normally without cowl lamps. ). There is a new bulb (the MAFCA tech director Jim Cannon has the part #) available that flashes amber but looks clear when not illuminated. Install that bulb in the top parking lamp socket. Even with the headlamps illuminated, you can see the amber flash at night. During the day they are easily seen also. Many modern vehicles use an amber turn lamp emitting from the headlight. Use the Tickin In Time hidden turn signal unit that BJ & Casey manufacture, and you have a very nice safety item that does not look out of place.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

I have been following along on most of the discussions on turn signals and debating to "build my own" but I really am impressed with the Electro-Tech after reading their ad. I like the fact of using a small switch and mounting it under the dash rail instead of mounting a big a$$ switch on the column. Thanks for the link.

Simple installation and all independent of everything else on the car., Clean, hidden and worth every penny!!

Note: Available with machined aluminum column switch, under dash toggle switch, or no included switch for use with you own style momentary switche(s).

* Operates on all cars - 6 or 12 volts, Positive or Negative Ground.
* Self Cancel feature uses time and lack of brake signal to know when to cancel.
* Timeout user adjustable for 15, 30, 45 or 60 seconds. Factory set for 15 seconds. Turn signal will not time out with the brakes applied.
* Audible beep on turn - user selectible for On/Off.
* Easy installation with included instructions, wiring diagrams and terminal labels on control.
* Fail safes with brake and park lights still functional even with blown turn signal control fuse or no power to the control box.
* Can operate with combined brake and turn lights or seperate brake and turn lamps in rear of car.
* Can share front Park or Fog lights for front turn signals.
* Flash rate independent of lamp load. Will flash LED lamps or incandesent lamps at the same rate.
* 4-way Hazzard function.
* Choice of machined aluminum column switch in brushed natural, black, under dash toggle or user supplied switche(s).
* Controller can use any style momentary switch(es) to access all control functions.
* 10 pin European style screw terminal connector prewired for power, ground and signal switch plug.
* Internal 15 amp turn function fuse and seperate Park and Brake circuit 10 amp fuses.
* Quick disconnect of control box for easy service. Simply unplug the 10 pin connector.

The system comes with this switch on the left which goes under the dash...

HOWEVER you can see in the next pic, we modified it and added 2 tiny LED lights to show when it is on and be able to cancel faster if we choose.

ALSO Be sure to buy the wire kit, it makes things go much faster.

[roccaas]