frame welt how to install

[kwisor]

hello all
i just orded the frame welt from snyders today do i need to glue it down if so what do i use i am getting ready to test fit the fenders and running boards
kevin
1930 model a tudor
1923 model t roadester p/u

[BashawT]

I think people use some glue so It doesn't move around on you when fitting the fenders, body, etc. I'm not sure what people use for glue but I'm sure some people will chime in and say what they've used in the past. I'm guessing just anything that will keep the welt in place and not affect the paint on the chassis.

[Mitch//pa]

i dont use any adhesive as some others do as i dont want the mess on the frame. i lay it out and punch the holes for any bolts then assemble. thats just my method

[wrndln]

I do use glue to keep it from moving. I lay it out on the frame and mark the places for the holes body block bolts and other places that need holes. Then I lay the welting on the end of a short 2x4 or 2x6. I then take a sharpened cast iron pipe of the right size 3/8" or 1/2" and with a hammer hit the pipe over the mark. The pipe make a nice clean hole. The end grain of the "2by" lets the pipe go in a little where as the side of the wood is not soft enough to make it into the wood far enough to cut the welting cleanly. After I have one side done, I flip it over and mark the other side and repeat the same procedure on the second strip of welting. After making both strips, I glue them on with contact cement or 3M spray adhesive. Hope this helps.
Rusty Nelson

[kwisor]

hello
thanks for the replays
kevin
1930 model a tudor
1923 model t roadster p/u

[ford3]

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aftter you punch the holes put a bolt in one of the fender holes in the frame seing the fender goes on after the body and then strech it out, remember its the webbing, then the splash aprons, then rubber spacers, then body blocks , then the body , the blocks go on in a certain place, make sure you get them right, the rubbber spacers are used for shims to get the doors adjused, cut a slot from the out side of shim to the bolt hole wide enough to let the body block slip past, that way you dont have to remove the bolt every time you add or remove a shim

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

The proper way I guess is to do it as original done. Bolt the fender to the apron, and glue the welting to the bottomside of the fender and apron. Then install the fender & apron simultaniously.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I lay the welting on the frame and tape the two ends, then let it set for a day or two, and then mark and punch the holes. I don't glue it. When I did a 1930 AA I layed it down and punched the holes right away. After a day or two the welting seems to have shrunk, and I had to pull it tight to get the bolts through the holes.

[George Miller]

I do it a little different. Glue the welting to the frame with trim cement. Then heat a bolt a little smaller than the hole and burn a hole through the welting. Move it around tell it touches the hole in the frame. Works real good and leaves a nice clean hole.

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

The proper way I guess is to do it as original done. Bolt the fender to the apron, and glue the welting to the bottomside of the fender and apron. Then install the fender & apron simultaniously.

Any documentation on this procedure? I seem to recall a thread a while ago in which Marco specifically stated that this was likely not done (?).

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

Any documentation on this procedure? I seem to recall a thread a while ago in which Marco specifically stated that this was likely not done (?).

If you don't mind, please show me where Marco said that. There are archive pictures showing the fenders on the distribution line with the anti-squeak already attached on the fender & apron. Also, can you show me a picture of a chassis on the assembly line with the anti-squeak glued to the frame rails?

.

[wrndln]

It sure seems difficult to glue the welting to the fender and apron - very hard for a restorer. Brent, is that the way your shop does it? Maybe Ford had a system that did it this way, but for a restorer, gluing the welting to the frame first, installing the apron second and then the fenders seems a much easier way to do it. When it is all finished no one would know the difference either way.
Rusty Nelson

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

If you don't mind, please show me where Marco said that. There are archive pictures showing the fenders on the distribution line with the anti-squeak already attached on the fender & apron. Also, can you show me a picture of a chassis on the assembly line with the anti-squeak glued to the frame rails?

.

Here's the link the thread I was referring to:

https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76025



Within this thread Marco states:

"Also, the anti-squeak webbing was not "stuck" to the fender and apron although they usually do after decades of being on a car".

and:

"No. That would be far to difficult and time consuming. To do so they would have manufactured the webbing with some sort of "stick-um" on one side which they didn't. Also, try aligning them on the bottom of your fenders and shields and you will find it's not as easy as it sounds as there are only a few reference points for alignment.

Why go to all that trouble when you have gravity on your side and simply setting it down on the frame is simple. They weren't trying to slide the shields under the body as is commonly done during a restoration. They were lowering the entire fender and shield assembly straight down from above. If they were going to "stick" the webbing to anything it would have been the frame where alignment is obvious".



If you have or know of pictures with the welt attached as you have stated above, now would be a good time to set the record straight once and for all.

[d.j. moordigian]

"All years the front fender, running board, and running board shield were all assembled together on a padded bench. As the chassis approached the station on the assembly line where the fender and running board assembly was to be installed, the webbing was laid down on the frame rail." __________________
http://www.abarnyard.com/

[59mgaguy]

After laying out and marking and cutting out my holes. I stitch large loops at the bottom of my webbing about every 2 1/2 to 3 inches. With the webbing in place and the bolts loose I pull down on 2 of the bottom loop of the thread between the bolt to pull the top part of the webbing in place. Then I snug up the bolt then go onto the next bolt. When the webbing is in the correct position I tighten the bolts all the way if not I go back to where the trouble is and redo.

Hope I you understand what I wrote.

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

If you don't mind, please show me where Marco said that. There are archive pictures showing the fenders on the distribution line with the anti-squeak already attached on the fender & apron. Also, can you show me a picture of a chassis on the assembly line with the anti-squeak glued to the frame rails?

.

So we've clearly shown you where Marco "said that", and everyone is still left hanging. Can you post or tell us where to access the archive pictures showing the procedure you've described?

[d.j. moordigian]

Morning Brent,

I sure had to think about what you wrote for a day or two before looking
up the thread( man...I just couldn't remember), I remember it was 1 or 2
pieces, depending on what month in 28 or style of apron...but that was it.

.....Body to frame welting... ( 1 2 view all)....

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by james.heider

Sound of silence----

So we've clearly shown you where Marco "said that", and everyone is still left hanging. Can you post or tell us where to access the archive pictures showing the procedure you've described?

Sometimes the PROS don't like to be challenged?

Look.....were here for an exchange of knowledge!

Brent...and some others, that don't participate here on the Barn, are friends
of mine,...because of the bs !

[roundvalley]

I have laid it on and cut the bolt holes. Then take a hot glue gun and tack it down every 6".

[kwisor]

hello all
want to thank everyone for there replies i found a 9 peace hole punch set at harber fright for 7.00 i let the webbing lay on the frame for a few days then i took my thumb and made a inpressin of the hole used a 2x4 solft end and punched the holes worked great it is rainning today so i will glue down when it gets sunny again
kevin
1930 model a tudor
1923 model t roadster p/u

[zzlegend]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

Here's the link the thread I was referring to:

https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76025



Within this thread Marco states:

"Also, the anti-squeak webbing was not "stuck" to the fender and apron although they usually do after decades of being on a car".

and:

"No. That would be far to difficult and time consuming. To do so they would have manufactured the webbing with some sort of "stick-um" on one side which they didn't. Also, try aligning them on the bottom of your fenders and shields and you will find it's not as easy as it sounds as there are only a few reference points for alignment.

Why go to all that trouble when you have gravity on your side and simply setting it down on the frame is simple. They weren't trying to slide the shields under the body as is commonly done during a restoration. They were lowering the entire fender and shield assembly straight down from above. If they were going to "stick" the webbing to anything it would have been the frame where alignment is obvious".



If you have or know of pictures with the welt attached as you have stated above, now would be a good time to set the record straight once and for all.

Thanks for posting Randy. Since no one has replied to this, i will say that
i have a friend that is getting ready to do this on his restoration next week. I will pass Marco's info on to him, as that appears to be the correct way to install. I directed him to Marco's website in the past as he post a lot of good info that helps the basic model a owner. Mark.

[kwisor]

hello
after punching the holes in my welt i see no reason to glue it down i due have the body and fenders off i due not see a problem becouse i will not be sliding the aprions and fenders on
kevin
1930 model a tudor
1923 model t roadster p/u

[ericr]

does anyone know if the original fender gimp had to have slots cut into it to fit easier as we do, or were they using some contemporary product that worked better?

[lake_harley]

Sorry to bring up such an old thread, but I'll soon be reinstalling the body, fenders and running boards on my '30 Model A Coupe. I was searching for an answer on the frame to body webbing material but really haven't found an answer. At least this thread was on the topic....somewhat.

My question is how far back does the webbing get installed. I think I've found out that it starts partially wrapped around the front frame horns but does it then stop just beyond (3/4") the back of the splash apron, or does it extend all the way to the rear of the frame? I'm thinking just beyond the splash apron.

Also, is the assembly order frame, welt, fender and splash apron.....and then do the rubber shims/pads go on next, then the blocks, then the body? Or...do the wood blocks go directly on top of the splash apron and the rubber shims between the blocks and the body subrails?

I know....these are simple uninformed and unfamiliar questions from a Model A noobie, but I want to at least get things assembled correctly and in the right order.

Thanks, in advance!

Lynn

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by lake_harley

Sorry to bring up such an old thread, but I'll soon be reinstalling the body, fenders and running boards on my '30 Model A Coupe. I was searching for an answer on the frame to body webbing material but really haven't found an answer. At least this thread was on the topic....somewhat.

My question is how far back does the webbing get installed. I think I've found out that it starts partially wrapped around the front frame horns but does it then stop just beyond (3/4") the back of the splash apron, or does it extend all the way to the rear of the frame? I'm thinking just beyond the splash apron.

Also, is the assembly order frame, welt, fender and splash apron.....and then do the rubber shims/pads go on next, then the blocks, then the body? Or...do the wood blocks go directly on top of the splash apron and the rubber shims between the blocks and the body subrails?

I know....these are simple uninformed and unfamiliar questions from a Model A noobie, but I want to at least get things assembled correctly and in the right order.

Thanks, in advance!

Lynn

Lynn,

I did a research article on the anti-squeek webbing material a few years ago.

You may find this interesting...or not!

http://www.plucks329s.org/pdf/studie...EAKARTICLE.pdf

Pluck