My 1930 Model A

[lucky_stripe_garage]

So if I leave these radius rods what cross shaft do I need to find? My e-brake handle mounts to the passenger side of the transmission.


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[Tom Wesenberg]

I'd be looking for the correct parts for your 1930, then restore the rear end and brakes so you can do a quick easy swap. You can then sell your other rear end. I'd also consider using a 3.27 ring and pinion during the rebuild.

[lucky_stripe_garage]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I'd be looking for the correct parts for your 1930, then restore the rear end and brakes so you can do a quick easy swap. You can then sell your other rear end. I'd also consider using a 3.27 ring and pinion during the rebuild.

I know I got part of an extra rear end (mostly all internals) when I purchased the car. How would I know what gears he has installed and what is on the extra piece? Also what would be a reasonable price to pay for a complete rear end that needs to be rebuilt?

Thanks everyone for all of the help.


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[Tom Wesenberg]

I've seen complete rear ends with drums anywhere from free to about $150 most times. My spare rear end was given to me for helping a club member move some of his just purchased parts. It came from a 1930 Coupe being rodded, so I'm hoping it will be pretty good inside.

[lucky_stripe_garage]

I hope to be going to the next meeting for the Dallas club in November. This will be the first time I've been off on a Sunday in several years.


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[lucky_stripe_garage]

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To start I hope everyone had a great holiday with their families and that 2017 is starting off well.

I found a great set of rear radius rods in the classified section of the barn. Thanks Lloyd. Going to get them sanded down and painted before installing, but I'll have to wait for temps to get a little warmer for the paint part.



So I went back to troubleshooting my starter problem/rebuild. I was finally able to remove the field coils. I went over to a buddies shop and he got out his torches. Got the screws nice and red and they backed right out. I sandblasted the case and have it in primer now, again waiting on a warm day to paint.


When I went to solder on the brushes I noticed that the coils were pre bent, and both sets done the same way. Are these easy to re-curve the opposite direction? Any tips on how to do this without causing damage?






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[Tom Wesenberg]

Your field new coils are fine. Don't mess with them.
If you paint the inside of the case, I wouldn't give it more than a very thin coat of paint, because the air gap for the armature to pole shoes is very small, and you want the shoes in close contact to the case.

[lucky_stripe_garage]

I don't think I explained my issue well in my last post. I did a dry install to show my problem. The parts that get soldered to the contact button ends up on the opposite side of the case after installation. And yes I'll be removing the paint from the inside of the case before I actually get everything installed.




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[Tom Wesenberg]

It looks like you were sent the wrong coils, at least one of them is wrong. I'd let the seller know and return them for a correct set to match your old ones. Don't even think about recurving them.

[lucky_stripe_garage]

I emailed Berts today with this picture attached. Hopefully they'll get it first thing Tuesday.


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[jm29henry]

Congratulations enjoy

[d.]

lucky stripe,
looks like a nice car. You would profit greatly in your Model A experience if you purchase the 2 Les Andrews mechanic guides...available from either of the Model A clubs, and most vendors.
These manuals are full of clear drawings and explanations for almost any issue you might come across as you learn about your Model A. They are absolutely worth the money spent. Do yourself a favor and get these manuals for your reference.

[lucky_stripe_garage]

Sorry it's been a little bit since I've updated anything. I've spent the day cleaning the engine compartment and replacing all of the cracked/leaking gaskets. When I pulled the valve cover and got it cleaned up I noticed these two extra holes. Any ideas why they'd be there?


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[lucky_stripe_garage]

Got her running a little better. Adjusted the carb some. It will now idle with the throttle lever all the way up. Before it would have to be at least 1/3 of the way down. Still sounds rough to me.

https://youtu.be/cijEQJ8OesQ


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[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by lucky_stripe_garage

I emailed Berts today with this picture attached. Hopefully they'll get it first thing Tuesday.

So what was the outcome with the issue with the field coils?

[lucky_stripe_garage]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

So what was the outcome with the issue with the field coils?

They sent me a new set of field coils. They were here within a couple of days after getting a response from Steve. They really are great to work with there.


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[Gunmetal blue2]

When I got my engine restored in 1971 the engine was so teit that the poor starter and me trying to hand crank was not good. don't try and do both at the same time. If you try and turn the engine over make sure the plugs are out of it. Welcome and enjoy ya'll have fun. I put my 1929 Town Sedan together and was only 15. I got the car all in pieces.

[lucky_stripe_garage]

So I've had to do some work since the last time I updated. I was making sure the head bolts were torqued correctly since I was having issues with the coolant bubbling over at 35-40mph, but it wasn't overheating. Read on here that it could be a leaky head gasket. Tried to ensure the head was torqued down properly. Started at 35lbs and snapped one of the last studs. This prompted a head gasket change and decided to change all of the studs while I had the head off so I wouldn't snap anymore.

Went through 3 different stud removers, snapped a total of 4 studs, realized that the first cylinder exhaust valve was bent, not bad but just enough that it wouldn't move smoothly.

Straightened the valve, drilled out the broken studs and replaced them all and got everything back installed. She started up and idled smoother than she ever has since I picked her up. Drove around down (10-15 miles) pulling back into my apartment complex and she died within 20 yards of my garage. I traced everything down, with the help of Jim Cannon, to the distributor cam screw was backing out so it was out of timing. Got it retimed and now the NEW starter that was installed isn't working. I'm able to hand crank the engine and it runs ok, but now I have to pull the starter again to figure out why it's not working.

[jdupay]

Wow, this has been a great thread to read through. Really great progress and looks like a great car. I can say after getting our A (My wife's grandfathers car) about 5 years ago, there are times when it seems like "it is always something", but keep at it. Take a break now and then and step away, but looks like you are doing awesome, keep up the great work at keeping that great car on the road. Read early on your daughter said she wanted to drive it when she had her license. Teach her sooner then that. My boys both knew how to drive the A well before they were driving age. Good luck with that starter. Not sure how you decided the starter was bad, but maybe it is somewhere else in the system. You were have to mess with the distributor for the cam screw, maybe something in the ignition system is not reconnected properly. If you haven't checked all that first, I would before I tear the starter out again. You seem to be a much better mechanic than I am, so maybe it is no bid deal, but for me, less is always more when it comes to taking stuff apart on my A. Good luck.

[lindy williams]

Regarding the valve chamber cover extra holes. They are probably someone's attempt to vent moisture and crankcase fumes out of that area. In 1931 Ford milled a flat on the distributor shanks to allow fumes to exit.