TECH: Homemade Head Puller that works!

[Jason in TX]

So you've just got back from the swap meet where you've scored an ultra rare 4 banger speed head that you can't go another minute without giving it a home on your A. You strut around the house with this new prize held high over your head and your family thinking you're insane for buying another piece of car junk.

Just the piece you needed, but the motor you're putting it on hasn't been opened up in quite some time. You know it's going to be a struggle getting that old cast iron head off.




Here is a great home made way to pop the top on that L-Head motor and give it a new look and a faster life!

Step 1: Find some old spark plugs for that head that you don't plan on using anymore. DESTROY THEM! They are evil and stare at your woman too much anyways. Remove the centers and run some 6 inch long bolts up through them, threads on top. Make sure the bolt head doesn't slide through the spark plug, but is also small enough to go into the spark plug hole when you screw the spark plugs in. You might wanna go with some nice quality bolts here if this is a tool you are going to use a few times.

Now screw these into the head.



Step 2: Using the head gasket you are going to put on the motor with your cool new heads (or the one you're replacing that's been blown for a while but knew it would suck to change..) Mark the location of the stud holes on a heavy plate of steel. I would go with at least 1/2 inch thick plate. Also, mark the holes for the SECOND and THIRD Spark plug. If you've got extra time, pinstripe the plate while you're at it for that extra touch of cool. Now, Drill the holes in the plate that line up with the studs and spark plugs.


Step 3: Slip the plate over the bolts sticking out of the hollowed out spark plug bodies. These bolts will have fallen down a little ways into the block, so lift these bolts up, snug to the spark plug and load them up with 8 or nine large flat fender washers. Now put the nut on top and tighten down until the bolt is above the nut a little bit.

Using more 6 inch long bolts that are no larger in diameter than the head studs, (they should be able to go through the head) Place them in the holes in the plate that line up with the studs in the block. Put the nuts under the plate, making "table legs" for the plate above the head.






Step 4: Now, using a box wrench to hold the "table leg" nuts on the bottom of the plate, Use a socket to tighten the bolts on the plate. Make sure that your bolts are staying over the head studs and not slipping off, ruining the threads on the studs in the block. Also be careful not to damage the end threads on your "table leg" bolts, or they will be stuck to your plate, making storage of this new tool a little more awkward. Work around the plate keeping the plate generally level, or parallel with the deck of the block. The head should start moving up and away from the block! Soon this low compression cast iron heap will be out of the way! No longer will your flatty motor be like all the other kids on the block.






Try to get the head as high as possible away from the block. This makes your life easier. I still had to stand over the engine compartment and lift straight up once I removed the plate. But once the head is off, you can inspect the engine, put down a new head gasket, and install that new speed head or blown head gasket and then you will be the envy of all your friends!!







(Credits go out to Joe G. for making this head puller and all the Dallas Model A guys who taught me creative ways to work on this junk!)

[PC/SR]

Cool tool and a good idea. How about using a head nut, half on the stud, half on the "table leg" bolt so they dont slip, and use an wrench on the table leg nut to raise the plate? Looks like a Thomas manifold, what kind of head?

[Dave in MN]

To PC/SR,
That is a Thomas head.
Dave in MN

[JBR]

Looks an awful lot like Rainmaker's head puller.

[Roger V]

Looks an awful lot like Rainmaker's head puller.

If Ron's is the one that Bill Stipe is manufacturing and many of the vendors sell, it looks nothing like it. Our club has that version but is not made out of plate and pulls at an angle due to the spark plugs being off center and not resting on any of the driver-side studs. I like this one as it catches studs on both sides of the block for an even pull. I like Ron's for using to pull an engine out.

[Brentwood Bob]

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Elrod, Thanks, just at the right time. Will take some effort to drill all those holes. Would 3/8, or 1/2 inch plate do the job. I don't have access to a drill press without spending some more money I don't have. Bob

[Jason in TX]

I would think 1/2 inch plate should do the trick since the pressure is distributed over the large surface area.

Also, if you need to find a cheap drill press, may I suggest craigslist. I have bought some great antique and used tools including my 40s drill press for cheap. Then you always have the option to turn around and re-sell it again on craigslist once you are done. No, or little money out of pocket!

[Frank Nemo]

The design of this head puller looks a whole lot like the one Gord. B by the Bay makes and sells. I think I bought mine from Gord 7 or 8 years ago.

[Larry Brumfield]

There's more than one way to skin a cat .....

But assuming that a person with a drill press has to go out and buy the steel plate and hardware plus pay for the gas to get there and back, how much would the total cost be to make this tool?

[Jason in TX]

I don't know the cost of gas in your part of the US, or how many miles to the gallon your vehicle gets, or the distance from a hardware store to your driveway, or the price of steel at your favorite metal supplier, or if you own the drill bits yet, or if you are running the drill press on Co-Op power, wind, solar or diesel generator, so you neglected to give me enough information to give you the total cost to make this tool, so I just did my best.

[Thom IV]

Dumb Question:

While the head puller is efficient and works. Wouldn't loosening the nuts on the head bolts, and starting the engine, loosen the head enough to remove it? Or am I just showing my ignorance?

[Jason in TX]

Not a dumb question at all. I would think the same thing.

Just thinking out loud, there are the engines that haven't been run in 50 years. You may not be able to first get it running to pop that head.

On a running vehicle, there is the "breaking the seal" factor of starting the car to pop it loose, but they still are a bear to get up past all the studs, so this tool (or a myriad of other possible head pulling devices) may assist with the rest of the job.

[Ryan]

Very nicely thought out Elrod.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

As mentioned above, it looks similar to Gord B's puller. But with the exception that it pulls across the entire width of the head in all stud rows. In the case of a really badly stuck head, pulling from both sides and the center is no doubt a better design. When pulling from the center and one side, the really bad heads need some assistance from the drivers side, usually with a wedge of some sort. I think this design will work well on easy heads as well as the most difficult. I wonder if a cut out over the fwd end of the water riser would allow one to lift the head a touch higher before manhandling it the rest of the way off? Thank you for going to the effort to post photos with an easy to understand narrative.

[Afordman31]

Elrod, I like threads like this, pictures and explanations to how it works or will work. Thanks for posting, now I have to see if I have steel to make one. Also figured I could lay out all the holes from another Model A head that is laying around. Thanks again.

[marc hildebrant]

Elrod,

Thanks for the information.

Marc

[Larry Seemann]

Elrod, thanks for sharing the info. I have one like that that we made many years ago(didn't keep track of the cost) that has made pulling several heads pretty easy. It does seem to me that I originally got the plans from Rainmaker Ron - if it was someone else I apologize. Anyway, every time the subject comes up I think about sharing the info as you did, but I just have never taken the trouble to do it. Glad you did!

[hardtimes]

Elrod,
THANKS for sharing your wonderful creativity! Do you think that with a little variation, that your puller will also work with V8 flatheads?

[TK in LA]

As a side note, if you don't have a drill press you could use an old head clamped to the plate and use the head as a drill guide to keep the drill straight and in the right location. Just a cheap thought.

[5window]

Originally Posted by Larry Brumfield

There's more than one way to skin a cat .....

But assuming that a person with a drill press has to go out and buy the steel plate and hardware plus pay for the gas to get there and back, how much would the total cost be to make this tool?

A nice technical post,well illustrated and explained. Thanks,Elrod.

Here in Central PA, gas is $2.71/gallon. A three minute Google search turned up about $15 for a 1/2" titanium drill bit, new Sears 1/2" drill press for $367 and a new 1'x2' 1/2" steel plate for $52 + shipping. Scrap steel is, I believe, about 15 cents a pound but the scrap yard would charge you what=$5 for the piece you need? #2 bolts/nuts in bulk are $1.99/lb at Tractor Supply. Good ice cream cone is $1.75 on the way.

Lowes.Sears and TSC are on my way to work. I am 6 miles from the scrap yard, I have a drill press and a 1/2" drill,too. Hours spent trying to get the old head off at $40/hr would more than pay for the tool-even for a 1x use.

So, maybe $10-15 for the tool? $40 if you buy the drill bit? $400 if you buy the drill press? And who really counts gas money when we're going to a JUNKYARD?!

[Jason in TX]

Hardtimes - I would say that in theory it would work just the same, but the fact that the heads are on a slant, the "table legs" or bolts would have a hard time staying aligned and you might damage a head stud. If you were able to remove the engine and put it on an engine stand to level the head, or if you made some kind of guide that mounted to the exhaust ports to hold the head puller in place, that could possibly help you. If you decide to try it, share your results!

To TK in LA, I think that is a GREAT thought. Excellent idea on using a head as a hand drill guide. Some might think it crude, but sounds like some great backyard engineering to me! Thanks for posting the suggestion!

Remember that this IS just an amateur head puller built by hobbyists in the DMAFC and suggestions for improvements and adjustments are always welcome! Thanks to everyone for your feedback!

[Tman]

Ha! I already made the sparkplug/bolt thing, as an engine lifter. Now I gotta make the next part for a tru double duty tool!

[Terry, NJ]

As an aside, Why do I think this model and year have more clearance (from the cowl) than my 1930 Fordor Town Sedan. Am I missing some or does the clearance vary?
Terry

[Terry, NJ]

I was wondering why you didn't use an old head for a Jig plate, There's no better way to spot the holes. Also, why not thread the holes or weld nuts onto tyhe plate and work off the heads of the bolts. A reminder, Most steel companies have a minimun charge. This plate is no where near in value to the minimum. For small steel pcs, I have a local fabrication shop that I buy small pcs from for a minimal charge. Just a couple of thoughts.
Terry

Originally Posted by Elrod

Hardtimes - I would say that in theory it would work just the same, but the fact that the heads are on a slant, the "table legs" or bolts would have a hard time staying aligned and you might damage a head stud. If you were able to remove the engine and put it on an engine stand to level the head, or if you made some kind of guide that mounted to the exhaust ports to hold the head puller in place, that could possibly help you. If you decide to try it, share your results!

To TK in LA, I think that is a GREAT thought. Excellent idea on using a head as a hand drill guide. Some might think it crude, but sounds like some great backyard engineering to me! Thanks for posting the suggestion!

Remember that this IS just an amateur head puller built by hobbyists in the DMAFC and suggestions for improvements and adjustments are always welcome! Thanks to everyone for your feedback!

[Reggie]

Neat tool! Can I borrow?? :-)

[charles=fla]

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any way you could use a old head insted of the steel plate..i dont know???

[TK in LA]

I'm thinking that using another head would be very award do to the weight and that you would need to elevate it very high to get around the water neck boss. If you shaved the head it probably wouldn't be strong enough and probably crack. My 3¢. (inflation)

[Bob Johnson]

I would suggest that in the beginning that you thread the nuts on the head studs such that the top of the stud is below the top of the nut. Then turn the "table legs" upside down with the hex head against the top of the head nut. Once the head is broken free then remove the head nuts and flip the "table legs". This would lessen the chance of messing up the head studs.

Bob

[Jason in TX]

Love all the positive comments and great suggestions for improvement!! Thanks for the suggestions. Nuts could be welded to the plate. It would require more build time, but result in a nice improvement.

I also agree that using another head would require longer bolts due to it's thickness, it would have to clear the water neck and the firewall and may not be as strong as plate steel.

[SamIyam]

Clark taught me one when he was over here from England.

Just leave the spark plugs in, take the nuts off... pull the distributor... and crank the motor over.

Pops the head right off.

...and it saved you time, and money.

Sam

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by SamIyam

Clark taught me one when he was over here from England.

Just leave the spark plugs in, take the nuts off... pull the distributor... and crank the motor over.

Pops the head right off.

...and it saved you time, and money.

Sam

I wish I could find it now but there was a guy that did just that and the engine ran, I think on one cylinder, then the gasket burned through and he lost compression and the head was still stuck.

[SamIyam]

I saw Clark do it with the distributor out... works real nice.

Sam

[UtahRocketManJohn]

I'm new to this discussion and very late.... but I have an A with a very stuck head. It's using water and I'm sure it needs a gasket. Anyway, I'm about to build this sweet puller as I've tried everything else and more. What really baffles me is that more folks don't have extreme trouble pulling a head. My engine was last apart in 1972 and the studs (especially those 2 up front) are a rusty mess. I've run the engine without the nuts in place and although that sounds like it might work, the engine runs fine with no nuts... I'm sure I could drive it to Cleveland and back with no nuts (on the head studs) if the engine didn't consume so much water.
So, I'm really writing to see if anyone has any newer tips or thoughts on building this tool. Has anyone used a spare head to do the job instead of building a tool?
Thanks, John

[John Kuhnast]

If you had an old head you would not need to drill any holes or not even a plate just use the head.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I know of lots of stuck head problems, because I have to fight most that I remove. I made my own head puller, but it's like the ones you can buy already made from the Model A parts houses. I wouldn't be without it.

[silversink]

once the head is up a bit I use falling wedges bought from the local logging supply to aid in lifting the head with out damaging any metal on the head or the eng. They are made of hard plastic and are fairly cheap

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by UtahRocketManJohn

I'm new to this discussion and very late.... but I have an A with a very stuck head. It's using water and I'm sure it needs a gasket. Anyway, I'm about to build this sweet puller as I've tried everything else and more. What really baffles me is that more folks don't have extreme trouble pulling a head. My engine was last apart in 1972 and the studs (especially those 2 up front) are a rusty mess. I've run the engine without the nuts in place and although that sounds like it might work, the engine runs fine with no nuts... I'm sure I could drive it to Cleveland and back with no nuts (on the head studs) if the engine didn't consume so much water.
So, I'm really writing to see if anyone has any newer tips or thoughts on building this tool. Has anyone used a spare head to do the job instead of building a tool?
Thanks, John

Hey John,
Just remember that these (80 some yr old) cast iron A/B heads are VERY BRITTLE. A little uneven pressure and ....snap/pop !
A whole lot depends on how long a head has been established on an engine , where time has taken its toll on the iron/steel head/studs. This cracking is why anyone experienced at taking old heads off, will advise you to never pry up on bottom of head. That's why some ingenious devices are made to remove rust welded on heads.
And, as if it isn't bad enough to overcome the rusted on head situation...the rusted to block studs are equal and / or worse problem !
I'm still watching for the genius who makes taking the weld rusted studs out easy IMO, there's a fortune to be made off of such device. So far, there ain't no such animal........

[katy]

I'm still watching for the genius who makes taking the weld rusted studs out easy

It's called Electrostaic machining.

[1930marie]

Thanks for sharing Elrod, well done. I will be making mine up today. By the way, I love the manifold and head - cool of the cool!!

[garyjohn]

How about the rope trick. I have used it and it works great. You put equal amounts of rope in the number one and four cylinders to fill it up and then turn over the motor and as the pistons come up they push the rope up and push the head up. cost is about $5.00 or less and no machining needed.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Originally Posted by garyjohn

How about the rope trick. I have used it and it works great. You put equal amounts of rope in the number one and four cylinders to fill it up and then turn over the motor and as the pistons come up they push the rope up and push the head up. cost is about $5.00 or less and no machining needed.

That's works fine on heads that aren't really stuck,but if one WAS stuck there's a good chance you'll bend a rod! And if you've ever straightened rods, they bend pretty easy. That being said, has anyone ever seen this happen?

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by 5window

A nice technical post,well illustrated and explained. Thanks,Elrod.

Here in Central PA, gas is $2.71/gallon. A three minute Google search turned up about $15 for a 1/2" titanium drill bit, new Sears 1/2" drill press for $367 and a new 1'x2' 1/2" steel plate for $52 + shipping. Scrap steel is, I believe, about 15 cents a pound but the scrap yard would charge you what=$5 for the piece you need? #2 bolts/nuts in bulk are $1.99/lb at Tractor Supply. Good ice cream cone is $1.75 on the way.

Lowes.Sears and TSC are on my way to work. I am 6 miles from the scrap yard, I have a drill press and a 1/2" drill,too. Hours spent trying to get the old head off at $40/hr would more than pay for the tool-even for a 1x use.

So, maybe $10-15 for the tool? $40 if you buy the drill bit? $400 if you buy the drill press? And who really counts gas money when we're going to a JUNKYARD?!

Is your time working on the car realistically priced st $40 an hour? If so you will never recover your investment! Wayne

[homemadetools]

Nice homemade tool build Jason in TX! Just a note that we featured it in yesterday's HomemadeTools.net newsletter, fully credited to you and FordBarn of course: http://mailchi.mp/buildthreads/lathe...ld-in-progress

We have 17 total homemade tools listed from FordBarn.com so far. Here they all are: http://www.homemadetools.net/sites/fordbarn.com

[harleynut]

I think I would have that new used head checked at a machine shop for flat before I put it on

[davidlee1313]

Could you use a short piece of conduit or pipe with an inside diameter just big enuf to fit over the studs and the bolts through the plate? Wouldn't it keep the bolts over the studs so they wouldn't slip off?

[4port]

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Let's set the record straight. As noted at the bottom of post #1, "Jason in Texas" credits Joe G. aka "4port" on this site for making this head puller. I loaned the puller to Jason and also explained how to use it. The story began about 15 years ago as I was at a Dallas members shop who was struggling to get a head off with the usual screwdrivers, wood and aluminum wedges. He left for an errand and when he returned the head was off. It took me about an hour to build this out of scrap around his shop. Fortunately, he had a Roll-In bandsaw to cut that 3/4" plate. This puller was "lost" for several years as it traveled around north and east Texas as each user would loan it to another in need. Once it was reported to be in Winnsboro, Texas over 100 miles to the east. Finally it turned up in Arlington Texas, about 20 miles from me, after I had made a request for it at a club meeting. It even had my name and phone number on it.

[homemadetools]

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