TECH: Homemade Head Puller that works!

[Jason in TX]

Hardtimes - I would say that in theory it would work just the same, but the fact that the heads are on a slant, the "table legs" or bolts would have a hard time staying aligned and you might damage a head stud. If you were able to remove the engine and put it on an engine stand to level the head, or if you made some kind of guide that mounted to the exhaust ports to hold the head puller in place, that could possibly help you. If you decide to try it, share your results!

To TK in LA, I think that is a GREAT thought. Excellent idea on using a head as a hand drill guide. Some might think it crude, but sounds like some great backyard engineering to me! Thanks for posting the suggestion!

Remember that this IS just an amateur head puller built by hobbyists in the DMAFC and suggestions for improvements and adjustments are always welcome! Thanks to everyone for your feedback!

[Tman]

Ha! I already made the sparkplug/bolt thing, as an engine lifter. Now I gotta make the next part for a tru double duty tool!

[Terry, NJ]

As an aside, Why do I think this model and year have more clearance (from the cowl) than my 1930 Fordor Town Sedan. Am I missing some or does the clearance vary?
Terry

[Terry, NJ]

I was wondering why you didn't use an old head for a Jig plate, There's no better way to spot the holes. Also, why not thread the holes or weld nuts onto tyhe plate and work off the heads of the bolts. A reminder, Most steel companies have a minimun charge. This plate is no where near in value to the minimum. For small steel pcs, I have a local fabrication shop that I buy small pcs from for a minimal charge. Just a couple of thoughts.
Terry

Originally Posted by Elrod

Hardtimes - I would say that in theory it would work just the same, but the fact that the heads are on a slant, the "table legs" or bolts would have a hard time staying aligned and you might damage a head stud. If you were able to remove the engine and put it on an engine stand to level the head, or if you made some kind of guide that mounted to the exhaust ports to hold the head puller in place, that could possibly help you. If you decide to try it, share your results!

To TK in LA, I think that is a GREAT thought. Excellent idea on using a head as a hand drill guide. Some might think it crude, but sounds like some great backyard engineering to me! Thanks for posting the suggestion!

Remember that this IS just an amateur head puller built by hobbyists in the DMAFC and suggestions for improvements and adjustments are always welcome! Thanks to everyone for your feedback!

[Reggie]

Neat tool! Can I borrow?? :-)

[charles=fla]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

any way you could use a old head insted of the steel plate..i dont know???

[TK in LA]

I'm thinking that using another head would be very award do to the weight and that you would need to elevate it very high to get around the water neck boss. If you shaved the head it probably wouldn't be strong enough and probably crack. My 3¢. (inflation)

[Bob Johnson]

I would suggest that in the beginning that you thread the nuts on the head studs such that the top of the stud is below the top of the nut. Then turn the "table legs" upside down with the hex head against the top of the head nut. Once the head is broken free then remove the head nuts and flip the "table legs". This would lessen the chance of messing up the head studs.

Bob

[Jason in TX]

Love all the positive comments and great suggestions for improvement!! Thanks for the suggestions. Nuts could be welded to the plate. It would require more build time, but result in a nice improvement.

I also agree that using another head would require longer bolts due to it's thickness, it would have to clear the water neck and the firewall and may not be as strong as plate steel.

[SamIyam]

Clark taught me one when he was over here from England.

Just leave the spark plugs in, take the nuts off... pull the distributor... and crank the motor over.

Pops the head right off.

...and it saved you time, and money.

Sam

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by SamIyam

Clark taught me one when he was over here from England.

Just leave the spark plugs in, take the nuts off... pull the distributor... and crank the motor over.

Pops the head right off.

...and it saved you time, and money.

Sam

I wish I could find it now but there was a guy that did just that and the engine ran, I think on one cylinder, then the gasket burned through and he lost compression and the head was still stuck.

[SamIyam]

I saw Clark do it with the distributor out... works real nice.

Sam

[UtahRocketManJohn]

I'm new to this discussion and very late.... but I have an A with a very stuck head. It's using water and I'm sure it needs a gasket. Anyway, I'm about to build this sweet puller as I've tried everything else and more. What really baffles me is that more folks don't have extreme trouble pulling a head. My engine was last apart in 1972 and the studs (especially those 2 up front) are a rusty mess. I've run the engine without the nuts in place and although that sounds like it might work, the engine runs fine with no nuts... I'm sure I could drive it to Cleveland and back with no nuts (on the head studs) if the engine didn't consume so much water.
So, I'm really writing to see if anyone has any newer tips or thoughts on building this tool. Has anyone used a spare head to do the job instead of building a tool?
Thanks, John

[John Kuhnast]

If you had an old head you would not need to drill any holes or not even a plate just use the head.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I know of lots of stuck head problems, because I have to fight most that I remove. I made my own head puller, but it's like the ones you can buy already made from the Model A parts houses. I wouldn't be without it.

[silversink]

once the head is up a bit I use falling wedges bought from the local logging supply to aid in lifting the head with out damaging any metal on the head or the eng. They are made of hard plastic and are fairly cheap

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by UtahRocketManJohn

I'm new to this discussion and very late.... but I have an A with a very stuck head. It's using water and I'm sure it needs a gasket. Anyway, I'm about to build this sweet puller as I've tried everything else and more. What really baffles me is that more folks don't have extreme trouble pulling a head. My engine was last apart in 1972 and the studs (especially those 2 up front) are a rusty mess. I've run the engine without the nuts in place and although that sounds like it might work, the engine runs fine with no nuts... I'm sure I could drive it to Cleveland and back with no nuts (on the head studs) if the engine didn't consume so much water.
So, I'm really writing to see if anyone has any newer tips or thoughts on building this tool. Has anyone used a spare head to do the job instead of building a tool?
Thanks, John

Hey John,
Just remember that these (80 some yr old) cast iron A/B heads are VERY BRITTLE. A little uneven pressure and ....snap/pop !
A whole lot depends on how long a head has been established on an engine , where time has taken its toll on the iron/steel head/studs. This cracking is why anyone experienced at taking old heads off, will advise you to never pry up on bottom of head. That's why some ingenious devices are made to remove rust welded on heads.
And, as if it isn't bad enough to overcome the rusted on head situation...the rusted to block studs are equal and / or worse problem !
I'm still watching for the genius who makes taking the weld rusted studs out easy IMO, there's a fortune to be made off of such device. So far, there ain't no such animal........

[katy]

I'm still watching for the genius who makes taking the weld rusted studs out easy

It's called Electrostaic machining.

[1930marie]

Thanks for sharing Elrod, well done. I will be making mine up today. By the way, I love the manifold and head - cool of the cool!!

[garyjohn]

How about the rope trick. I have used it and it works great. You put equal amounts of rope in the number one and four cylinders to fill it up and then turn over the motor and as the pistons come up they push the rope up and push the head up. cost is about $5.00 or less and no machining needed.