Short Pitman Arm on 7 tooth '28, '29 Steering Box.

[Fullraceflathead]

How well does the Aftermarket Short Steering Arm work on the early 7 tooth 1928 and 1929 Steering Boxes? I have a 1928 Roadster Pick up.
My Original Pitman Arm ball is worn over .200 from the original size of 1.000.
I know it can be cut off and replaced but I would like to try the short Pitman Arm.
I thought I read on here, someone posted that it prevented them from being able to turn the wheels all the way, lock to lock. Is this true? I don't think I want to give up my turning radius but could there have been something just not adjusted right?
I would appreciate all input on using the short Pitman Arm good or bad on the early style, 7 tooth Steering Box.
Thanks!

[Fred K-OR]

I put one on my 29 7 tooth huckster and it works great. It is almost like "power steering" in an A. I have not checked to see if the turning is less . Purchased it from Bert's.

[Brian T]

You will find that you will lose full lock to the left and the right tire may rub the brake rod, to over come this an adjustable drag link will cure this, I have one in the making, if you would like pictures PM me your e-mail,
you will need a 5/8x18 left hand dye and a right hand dye same size.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

For those who are anal about this yet do not like the looks of an adjustable drag-link, two drag links can be sectioned and properly welded together to make an almost undetectable link.

[Richard in NC]

The 7 tooth box must have less built in degrees of rotation because the shortened arm works great with a 2 tooth 1931 box and no loss of turning radius.

[Richard in NC]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

You can easily measure what a shortened arm will do. Jack up the car. Disconnect the drag link at the pitman arm and measure the linear movement of it wheels lock to lock. Then make a soapstone or chalk mark on the pitman arm where the new ball will be. Lock to lock strike a vertical line on the frame where the new ball would come to. This is the linear distance the drag link will move. The only other thing is the length of the drag link to center the steering wheel.

[RUNNERBUN]

A search of the forum for this topic will show that it has been covered many times before and I think you will be hard pressed to find anyone who was disappointed after fitting the shortened arm. My only regret was not fitting it sooner. Has not been any noticeable difference in turning circle
My wife really enjoys driving it now.

[31 RPU]

I cut one in two and lengthened it 5/8 inch. I haven't tried it yet though.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I thought when the shorter pitman arm is installed the drag link needed to be shortened to keep the steering wheel centered. My 1928 seven tooth picture would seem to indicate that is the case.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I thought when the shorter pitman arm is installed the drag link needed to be shortened to keep the steering wheel centered. My 1928 seven tooth picture would seem to indicate that is the case.

That's what I was thinking... The orientation of my steering wheel indicates that also.

[Brian T]

The drag link needs to be made longer, it maybe only a 1/4 inch or so, there are 2 ways to make a drag link adjustable see the picture added, which is the way I am doing it.

The other way is to use a tie rod cut to length and use 2 tie rod ends, this way you will only need the right hand dye to cut the threads.

Myself using a adjustable sleeve in the center of the link is less noticeable, and easier to fabricate than welding 2 together, you would be very lucky to get the wheel centered doing this,(that's if it was before adding the shortened arm), or maybe bending the steering arm.

What I see with the 7 tooth is the sector is being stopped in the steering box case before the spindle hits the stop, about 1/8 of an inch.

Looking at Toms picture his link appears to be higher at the front, if I remember the link is normally level , maybe the picture is distorted?, moving the link upward will move the link end away from the ball as it travels thru an upward arc.

[Y-Blockhead]

I have my old bent tie rod, I could probably cut it to length and use two tie rod ends. That would eliminate the coupling in the middle.

Now who do I know that has a 5/8X18 die.

But back to the length. I have a two tooth, my steering wheel is off to the left. For the life of me I still think DL should be shorter.

Doesn't really matter since it will be adjustable. Now I have a headache...

[Brian T]

Before you decide to use the tie rod ends remember that there is not much clearance at the front connection above the axle, Sacremento Vintage did sell them that way and also as I pictured, but no longer have them, at one time a club member of ours supplied them.

The way I see it even with the 2 tooth it may move the steering box off center a little, maybe will not be a problem, you may want to check adjustments before you do any thing.

I have only seen the 5/8 dye in 1-1/2 inch, you will also need the handle for it, hoping to find these myself at a good price as they will only be used once.

[Fullraceflathead]

One place that I have used in the past for larger more expensive Dies and Taps is Enco.
They carry Name brands and Cheap brands. If it's a one time deal or very little use deal I buy the cheaper ones. Every once in awhile you can score name brands on Ebay.
I think I'll make an adjustable Drag Link from my old Tie Rod. I was thinking of using Tie Rod ends as I do have an extra set but if clearance is tight in the front, maybe cutting and adding the threaded sleeve is a better way to go.
Thanks for everyone's input.

[Fullraceflathead]

It kinda sounds like the person that originally designed the 1 1/2" shorter Pitman Arms didn't test them on the early 7 tooth Steering Boxes. I'd be willing to bet a 1" shorter Pitman Arm would have been perfect.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Brian T

Before you decide to use the tie rod ends remember that there is not much clearance at the front connection above the axle, Sacremento Vintage did sell them that way and also as I pictured, but no longer have them, at one time a club member of ours supplied them.

The way I see it even with the 2 tooth it may move the steering box off center a little, maybe will not be a problem, you may want to check adjustments before you do any thing.

I have only seen the 5/8 dye in 1-1/2 inch, you will also need the handle for it, hoping to find these myself at a good price as they will only be used once.

Brian, you are right. It's not really off that much and I'm not going to concern myself with it. Thanks for the info tho, maybe it will help someone else.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If the drag link needs to be 1/4" or so longer, couldn't you slot the hole for the ball and shim the bushings out a 1/4"? You might have to trim the slotted end plug.

[Fullraceflathead]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If the drag link needs to be 1/4" or so longer, couldn't you slot the hole for the ball and shim the bushings out a 1/4"? You might have to trim the slotted end plug.

That sounds like a Great Idea Tom!
It would be very hard to tell that it's been modified. Sneaky!
Mine had more than a 1/4 inch play in it before I removed it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I went back out this morning to study my pitman arm again. It sure looks like a shorter pitman arm would go right on my 7 tooth box without having to change the length of the drag link. I also took a picture of the front axle, so you can judge for yourself how much spring sag I may have. The camera lens is resting against the bottom edge of the front bumper. It looks to me like I might have about an inch of spring sag. What do you think? But, even if the body sat an inch or two higher, I still don't think I'd have to add to the drag link when installing a shorter pitman arm.

[Brian T]

Hello Tom,
This subject as intrigued me for some time and not until I did a total recondition of my front suspension and steering and installing the short pitman arm I could see why some have a problem and others do not.
I found that it is only a small change in drag link length not to achieve full turn to the left (7 tooth) and have the wheel straight.
I had found a drag link at a swap meet last year that had a little less wear than my original, - when fitted the steering wheel spokes were at the X position and the left spindle nearly a 1/4 inch from the stop, I refitted the original link the wheel now was at the 1-7 clock position, with the stock pitman arm it went back to 12-6 and hit the stop.
I still believe your picture is a camera illusion, in searching I did find a post that refers to a change in drag link lengh,-- 1/4 inch difference, SB Feb 1930, it was to do with the lowering of the steering column ( a Marco post ).
The shortened arm was factory fitted in 32 along with many other changes to the steering, so adding one to the early As requires some grunting and groaning to get it right.