Swage Or Not To Swage?

[Fred A]

Interesting reasoning. In the meantime we know less while Little Howard knows... You got us LH, many of us are just compulsively curious. Can not dismiss the value of checking the drum's balance drum for some builds. I have seen drums that have removed or modified counterbalance lugs. May have been for wheel fitting. Fred A

[Flathead Fever]

I have a pair of Boling Brothers drums and hubs here going on my '34 pickup and they are absolutely beautiful. The fit between the hub and drums is perfect. No play at all between the studs and the drums. I was going to use some old hubs to save money, but you need to ream the holes to .600 for the Boling Brothers studs. The reamer (that I would only ever one time) was expensive, I just decide to buy the new hubs and I'm glad I did. You won't have balance problems with these since the outside has been machined; it's exactly the same thickness everywhere and perfectly concentric on the outside. I bet if you balanced them, they would already be perfect.

I like using period correct hot rod parts and I don't usually buy new stuff, but these brakes are the exception. I highly recommend Boling Brothers. Too bad everything is not made like this. That have always been really nice and quickly answered any email questions. They ship fast too; unlike one company I'm waiting on right now.

I don't think a "little" play between the studs and drum will hurt anything. Lots of cars came that way, even big air brake drums. The studs do not center the drum it's the "pilot hole" in the middle, so even if the drum shifted a little because of the stud clearance it would still remain centered. Ideally you don't want any play because of the potential to shear the bolts or wear away at them. At work we had a bunch of new F-350s that were shearing the ring gear bolts. At the factory somebody used the wrong bolts without the built-in shoulder that fit tightly the ring gear. Without that shoulder there was probably a 1/8'" of clearance on each side of the bolts. It did not take long for the ring gear to start moving back and forth and shearing the bolts. I must have done a dozen of those rear-ends. We got them in as quick as possible before the ring gear grenaded the rear end. We could have sent them in under warranty, but it took longer to drop them off and pick them up than it did to pull the rear cover and replace the bolts.

[Tim Ayers]

Flathead Fever,

Good point about the hole in the center locating the drum. My post did not adequately state that and your point is spot on.

Tim

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Fred A

"one additional thing" is a welcome point. That little howard is welcomed into the mix on this site, is a good sign that Ford Barn is truly open to great ideas and experiences.
To clarify, the front hubs came to me with the lugs already swaged, but the drums not attached. Film at Eleven! Fred A
P.S. I still disadvantaged by not being "unskilled" at picture posting.

Fred A

My apologies to Fred for being late, but here are the pics that he wanted to post. Coop

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

My apologies to Fred for being late, but here are the pics that he wanted to post. Coop

Looking that is pict, it looks like its a '40 style front hub that has a flat spot cast in. Most have these have it, but I've also seen a few that don't. Not sure why they all don't have that flat spot cast in.

If your hub has that flat spot and the studs don't have a flat face, simply grind or file a flat and that will keep the stud from turning. No need for swedging.

Also, you have repop drums of some sort which are the slip on type.

Seems like you are good to go!

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Looking that is pict, it looks like its a '40 style rear hub that has a flat cast in.
Also, you have repop drums of some sort which are the slip on type.

Tim (Fred too) ....You must have meant FRONT HUB, as I'm sure that YOU know the difference. Boling Brothers' REAR hub BELOW! I will say that their drums have increased in price recently. They were $135 until just a short time ago. Don't forget that Gary (Krylon32) is a dealer and offers a 10% discount.


Anyway, those "slip-on" drums that Fred has pictured are the Boling Brothers drums, also known as "MT CAR PRODUCTS" as can be seen under what looks like some sort of protective goop. Fred has some GOOD stuff there! I'd run those parts in a heartbeat. Coop

.

[Tim Ayers]

Ah, yes. My oversight. I've been busier that a one legged man in a butt kicking contest lately, so I didn't proof read my post.

I believe both OE '40 front and rear hubs have those same flat stops cast into the back side of the hub. I have a few loose one that I'll go check when a have minute.

Thanks for the correction, DD

[Fred A]

Actually, the pictures show that the MT drums are really intended for the repop Lincoln backing plates and do not fit the grooves on the Bendix made Zephyrs. They look good on most of the currently available brakes. Take a closer look at the exposed groove that only exists where there is the outer ring of the originals. MTs are now out and whatever I had before, is back "in the groove". The hubs are new of unknown origin. Mix and no match has been haunting me lately. Formerly I have sold the Zephyr front hubs to Richard Lacy. They work with some new drums.
Thanks DD for the picture help. If I could get some shop time with my friend that sent the pictures, we could sort more of this out. Still trying to get the parking brake cable issues defeated. In my hot rod years little of this would be worthy of mention. I would be ashamed of how we abused the old Fords. Good Luck: Fred A