Replacing front oil seal

[tackle51]

I need to replace the "modern" one-piece front oil seal with a new rope seal as it is leaking badly. Since the front motor mount (yoke) fastens through the timing gear cover, will the engine need to be supported when this cover is removed? I assume the radiator should also be removed to facilitate this entire process? Thanks for any advice.

[Purdy Swoft]

I would use my engine crane to support the engine, as the timing cover, oil pan and crankshaft pulley will have to be removed. The hood will also need to be removed. It will be easier with the radiator out of the way. The modern seals can cause lots of work when they fail.

[columbiA]

The so-called modern seal is a real PITA to replace when it fails.At least 5 million A,s got along just fine with the rope type seal.Just one more instance where "modern " isn't always better.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi 51,

Never, ever, had a front of engine original rope seal leak.

Also, never soaked the rope seal in oil as recommended by Model A parts vendors to make it "swell" so it can later "shrink" when the excess oil "evaporates" & dries out later.

Always installed rope seals totally "dry", with a heavy coat of axle grease on contacting surfaces, & install with non-hardening "Permatex" No. 2 between the metal surface & bottom of the rope.

After installing the rope while "dry", the rope begins to "swell" when the engine oil wicks in after start-up, thus forming a uniformly "tight" seal.

The grease coating helps to lubricate, seal, & shape the rope seal only on initial start up.

Cannot imagine why so many Model A owners have so many recurring front seal leaks.

Agree with Mr. columbiaA -- would never try anything other than an original type rope seal.

[tackle51]

Mr. Purdy,

Thanks for the advice - just as I had suspected - a lot of work! I didn't think I would have to take the pulley off as well. Is that really necessary or is that just for convenience so I don't have to work around behind it? Thanks again.

[Dave in MN]

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Pulley will not need to be removed.
Good Day!

[tackle51]

Mr. Chauvin,

Thank you and others for the help. Just so I am perfectly clear with your directions, when and where does the grease get applied to the ropes? After they have been inserted and only on the exposed surfaces making contact with the turning crankshaft? Also, is the Permetex #2 used to "bed' the dry rope in the grove of the cover and pan? Thanks again.

[RHD]

The original rope seal works fine. If the bearing surface on the front pulley is damaged or worn it will let oil through.
I too, have never soaked the seals before use with no problems at all in 48 years. I never trim to length and they 'squash' to a really good seal. I was advised by an old Model 'A' mechanic never to cut the front seal or the rear main cork strip over the top of the bearing. I have done this with no problems.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi 51,

After rope is set in Permatex No. 2, & before rope is placed adjacent to crankshaft, apply grease on top of top & bottom rope -- cannot hurt to put a little grease on crankshaft surface that will contact rope.

Thanks for asking!

None of us were born with this vintage knowledge of how to work on vintage cars -- we all learned from others and/or our own mistakes.

Many very simple question on this Forum are asked by highly intelligent individuals who should be respected because in asking, they are only showing a desire to become better informed.

Answering questions only shows we all come from different backgrounds & hence sometimes offer different answers.

Good luck with your project -- one day soon, you will be answering questions.