Engine Oil

[Oldgearz]

Hate to start WWIII, but is PennGrade SAE 40 high zinc and phosphorus used by Aers very much?

[redmodelt]

Not by me. 10-30 or 10-40 depending on what time of year. Zinc is not needed in a Model A engine.

[Conaway2]

My engine rebuilder recommended Valvoline VR-1 high zinc racing oil, 10W-30. Given what I spent on the rebuild, I follow his recommendations.

[McMimmcs]

Originally Posted by redmodelt

Not by me. 10-30 or 10-40 depending on what time of year. Zinc is not needed in a Model A engine.

Well stated, the perfect answer !

[GeneBob]

The guys at the shop that rebuilt my engine specifically suggested higher zinc level oil. I use the Lucas "Hot Rod & Classic Oil". Good price and no concern about the high pressure sliding surfaces on tappets and gears. Maybe the Model A does not have high pressures on the tappets? I do not know but I wonder how good the cam profiles were 90 years ago. Today's modern oils actually limit the zinc to very low levels and today's engines are made for that.

[J Franklin]

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use a 10-30 or 10-40 that is all you need unless the engine is worn out. Zinc won't hurt anything.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by GeneBob

I use the Lucas "Hot Rod & Classic Oil".

[Ted Duke]

use motor oil

[California Travieso]

Ted,

Did you mean “used” motor oil, like in the old days! ��

David Serrano

[Jack Shaft]

My father ran "drain oil" in his coupe..he would buy it for a penny a quart, oil drained out of the cars the local gas station serviced..

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by Jack Shaft

My father ran "drain oil" in his coupe..he would buy it for a penny a quart, oil drained out of the cars the local gas station serviced..

Most stations used a service where the old oil was re-refined and re-sold as reclaimed oil. I doubt he ran dirty oil, there would be no good doing so.

[Jack Shaft]

Thats nice,you doubt a story told to me by my father..take a minute,think about that..

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by Jack Shaft

Thats nice,you doubt a story told to me by my father..take a minute,think about that..

I just think he was buying reclaimed oil (drain oil that is re-refined) and called it what he did. Think about it. Why change oil if you are just putting dirty oil back in?

[McMimmcs]

Originally Posted by Jack Shaft

Thats nice,you doubt a story told to me by my father..take a minute,think about that..

Your story is very authentic and was repeated over and over. My father owned a service station and was part of that process.

[McMimmcs]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

I just think he was buying reclaimed oil (drain oil that is re-refined) and called it what he did. Think about it. Why change oil if you are just putting dirty oil back in?

They were not changing oil, they were adding a quart to stop the engine from seizing up. Times were tough, think about it !

[Bob Bidonde]

Many moons ago when I pumped gasoline, the station owner had a 275 gallon oil tank in a back room. It contained the residual oil that dripped from every can of oil used at the station. The oil from that tank was sold as "bottle oil" at a lower price than the canned oil. This practice was common place back in the 1950s and 1960s. In my garage these days, I continue this practice of draining residual oil from containers.

[runewilliam_merc]

There is a product called oil saver:

Rune from Norway

Sent fra min S52 via Tapatalk

[1929]

Originally Posted by Conaway2

My engine rebuilder recommended Valvoline VR-1 high zinc racing oil, 10W-30. Given what I spent on the rebuild, I follow his recommendations.

My builder recommended Valvoline Racing oil 20W-50.

[katy]

Back, before they put detergents in the oil, a lot of people put used oil aside and let it sit for a few weeks. All or most of the contaminants would settle out and "clean" oil could be scooped out for re-use.

Bindar Dundat

[redmodelt]

The guy I worked with does somewhat the same thing. He drains the oil from each container into his oil cans. When adding fresh oil to an engine, I let each one drain for a while before adding the next one.

[duke36]

Originally Posted by Oldgearz

Hate to start WWIII, but is PennGrade SAE 40 high zinc and phosphorus used by Aers very much?

See the "Microlon" thread. The use of zinc has been debated but found to be beneficial in classic and horiz. opposed cylinder engines. Shell Rotella used to have higher levels of zinc but the levels supposedly have been reduced and possibly due to the adverse effects on modern catalytic convertors. Suggest reading up on adding ethanol stabilizers to the modern fuels, another subject of debate affecting engine performance..

[Flyboy1st]

I have always had old air cooled Harleys(1936-80), old cars and I am an A&P aircraft mech. The best is Mobil One, any synthetic grade that is 30WT like 5W30. The old Harleys always produce a lot of sludge, using Mobil One eliminated built up sludge and always kept inside of engines clean, I like using a oil filter also. Mobil One is pretty slippery stuff and is really the gold standard in affordable engine oil.

[Ted Duke]

Originally Posted by California Travieso

Ted,

Did you mean “used” motor oil, like in the old days! ��

David Serrano

NOT unless it is need of an overhaul. But, IMHO, any oil in 2021 is better than any oil in 1928-1931. Over talked. Fill it drive it, change it.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by Ted Duke

NOT unless it is need of an overhaul. But, IMHO, any oil in 2021 is better than any oil in 1928-1931. Over talked. Fill it drive it, change it.

I was told some time back that WalMart brand motor oil was recycled oil from Mobil.

I don't use it myself but a buddy does and has for a number of years with good results in his everyday Pontiac driver. Car has about 200,000 miles he bought it new and it runs fine

[Ak Sourdough]

My dad's 29 was (is) in need of rings and leaks profusely. I drove it several times a summer for the past 15 years. A 30 mile round trip to town would require a half gallon of oil to top it back up. Didn't smoke visibly, but lots of crankcase vapor aroma inside especially on a hill until I made a road draft tube that went down beside the transmission to carry it away.

Anyway, I ran used oil in it for many years. We have what are called transfer sites where residential trash is deposited into dumpsters and the borough comes around to empty them. They also have a place for people to leave their used oil. I'd just open up the gallon jugs one at a time until I found one that had honey colored low mileage used oil in it and take it home for the Model A. That worked fine for me, I never considered buying new oil for a big consumer like that. Sold the car to a family friend that plans to fix the engine.

Also good for chainsaw bar oil. Can't see paying 15 bucks a gallon for saw bar oil that is total loss.


In summary, it is my opinion that for some uses, any oil is fine. In all cases, any oil is better than no oil.

[Jeff/Illinois]

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Originally Posted by Ak Sourdough

M.................. A 30 mile round trip to town would require a half gallon of oil to top it back up.................

Yikes, I'd have had that engine overhauled real quick-like. 15 miles to a quart of oil?? That's pretty bad.

[Ak Sourdough]

A lot of it landed on the highway, maybe not a whole 1/2 gallon to top it off but close. No big deal when the oil is free and time is short. The car is no cream puff show rig, just an old car as it was in the 50's that still runs.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by duke36

See the "Microlon" thread. The use of zinc has been debated but found to be beneficial in classic and horiz. opposed cylinder engines. Shell Rotella used to have higher levels of zinc but the levels supposedly have been reduced and possibly due to the adverse effects on modern catalytic convertors. Suggest reading up on adding ethanol stabilizers to the modern fuels, another subject of debate affecting engine performance..

Used to - that's the key word. I picked up my engine from my rebuilder, and he wants me to use Rotella 30, so that is what I put in it. I try and tell people all the time that Shell was finally asked to change the formula. You know how persuasive the government can be... In any event if it's so great, why did he give me a bottle of ZDP? I just ordered 2 more bottles of it from Snyders because I am going to soon change the oil again, and then once before laying the car up for winter.

[pbishop]

Originally Posted by Oldgearz

Hate to start WWIII, but is PennGrade SAE 40 high zinc and phosphorus used by Aers very much?

Got this from the Top - 20-50 Castrol GTX with 1 qt. Lucas, then an extra quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Damn, you have a concoction of amazing lubricants from top-to-bottom.


My 31 A (with Weber carb) screams down the highway at 65+ mph for 30 miles round trip here in rural Florida. A leak-less water-pump and a four blade fan make the set-up perform at speed and in idle traffic.

[Terry, NJ]

Originally Posted by Ak Sourdough

Also good for chainsaw bar oil. Can't see paying 15 bucks a gallon for saw bar oil that is total loss.
In summary, it is my opinion that for some uses, any oil is fine. In all cases, any oil is better than no oil.

I have read somewhere, that chain bar oil and 2 cycle oil is the cheapest and least refined oil there is. What the hell? I think of that each and every time I see Stihl oil in those cute little six packs! Wow, what a profit center!
Terry

[Terry, NJ]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Used to - that's the key word. I picked up my engine from my rebuilder, and he wants me to use Rotella 30, so that is what I put in it. I try and tell people all the time that Shell was finally asked to change the formula. You know how persuasive the government can be... In any event if it's so great, why did he give me a bottle of ZDP? I just ordered 2 more bottles of it from Snyders because I am going to soon change the oil again, and then once before laying the car up for winter.

At the airport, we had to put a zinc additive into the crankcases of planes we had just changed oil in. This was AeroShell 50 Wt.
Terry

[Aretino]

Shell Rotella T1 SAE 30. Great oil and cheap at Walmart

[Gene F]

Oil chemistry is a big deal.

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

I was told some time back that WalMart brand motor oil was recycled oil from Mobil.

I don't use it myself but a buddy does and has for a number of years with good results in his everyday Pontiac driver. Car has about 200,000 miles he bought it new and it runs fine

Do you walk with a limp? Likely so, because someone was sure pulling your leg! "recycled oil from Mobil"?? WalMart sells a LOT of oil! Where is Mobil getting all this oil to recycle, anyway?

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

I have read somewhere, that chain bar oil and 2 cycle oil is the cheapest and least refined oil there is. What the hell? I think of that each and every time I see Stihl oil in those cute little six packs! Wow, what a profit center!
Terry

Bar oil may be less refined, but 2 stroke oil is highly refined. Back in the day we just used non-detergent 30W at a 16 to 1 ratio and always had serious carbon build up in the exhaust ports (and on the plug!). Now modern 2 stroke oils are refined and with additives to almost eliminate carbon deposits, plus they lubricate just fine 40:1, 50:1 or more gas/oil ratios.

[Aarongriffey]

In 1960 there was a cut rate gas station in St. Paul that sold reclaimed oil for 10 cents a Quart.
I knew of a few people that used it because they had leaky engines.

[Gene F]

About 1980 there was a department store chain in Columbus, Ohio named Harts. They sold re-refined oil for 39 cents a quart.

[Mister Moose]

There are 2 reasons oil needs to be changed: Dirt and thermal stress. Not sure how re-refined oil addresses the thermal changes, but I can't believe it's going to be as good.

On chainsaw bar oil, the real stuff is way more syrupy, stringy than motor oil. It will coat the chain and sprocket for longer and not sling off as readily. Can you use motor oil? Sure. I would expect faster bar wear though.

[BillCook]

You can buy the Zinc additive on line ,I used it in my 52Fd 8ba,every oil change !