1933 radius rod bolt alignment

[Ricosan]

I recently had work done on my 1933 rear end. When I got my car back I noticed unusual noise coming from under the car. Upon examination I found that the bolt that secures the rear radius rods to the torque tube only halfway through the hole with no nut on the other side. I was able to get the bolt pushed through to the other side but it will not go through th radius rod hole on the passenger side.
My mechanic suggested I use a 5/16” bolt in place of the 1/2” bolt to secure the 2 rods.
Will this cause any problems?
Richard

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Ricosan

I recently had work done on my 1933 rear end. When I got my car back I noticed unusual noise coming from under the car. Upon examination I found that the bolt that secures the rear radius rods to the torque tube only halfway through the hole with no nut on the other side. I was able to get the bolt pushed through to the other side but it will not go through th radius rod hole on the passenger side.
My mechanic suggested I use a 5/16” bolt in place of the 1/2” bolt to secure the 2 rods.
Will this cause any problems?
Richard

[Tim Ayers]

You'll need someone to pull back on the right rear (passenger side) wheel/axle tube to get the mounting holes back in alignment. The spring is putting pressure on it and driving that side forward a bit.

If doing this job solo, stick a drift in the side that is aligned and get the other side back into place. I believe the correct nut & bolt is set up for a castle nut & cotter pin to prevent this from happening.

You want to use the original mounting design to keep everything triangulated while also being able to flex/twist somewhat slightly.

[alchemy]

You need a new mechanic. Never use an undersized bolt in place of the intended size.

[Ricosan]

Good morning Tim.
Here’s what I’ve tried.
I jacked the car up and put ramps on each wheel facing opposite directions and rocked the car up and down. Rod didn’t move.
Wrapped a strap around the passenger side axel and attached it to truck trailer hitch and pulled. No movement.
Is this what I need to get the axel to twist? Will I need to loosen the axel bolt?

[Seth Swoboda]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Why don't you go online and place an order with Third Gen for the proper bolt, nut and cotter key. It's a pretty easy solution.

Why do you need to twist the axle? Push the end of the radius rod up so that it lines up with the mount on the torque tube, slide bolt through, tighten and be done?

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

Why don't you go online and place an order with Third Gen for the proper bolt, nut and cotter key. It's a pretty easy solution.

Why do you need to twist the axle? Push the end of the radius rod up so that it lines up with the mount on the torque tube, slide bolt through, tighten and be done?

That would be ideal if that's all he has to do. Pushing the axle back, especially using the wheel, is easier with a helper so he can be under the car to slide the bolt in place.

Reading his post, I read it that the "loose" radius rod is not lining up with the hole. Looking closely at the picture, it does seem to appear that the one rod is pushed forward past the hole.

If pulling the axle back didn't bring the rod back into alignment, something else is wrong and more than likely bent when the bolt came out.


Edit: Now I'm second guessing what I suggested. Ricosan: Does the radius rod line up with the hole or just about?

[Mart]

Loosen the nuts and bolts at the axle end of both radius rods. When everything is slack you should be able to persuade the correct 1/2" bolt through the front end of the rods and torque tube bracket. Once in place, progressively tighten all the bolts.
If it really does not line up something is seriously bent and needs to be investigated. Hopefully what I have suggested will work ok and all will be well.
Don't fit an undersize bolt.
Get a new mechanic. He should not have suggested that.
Mart.

[34fordy]

Get a new mechanic. He should not have suggested that.
Mart.[/QUOTE]

With respect: That fellow is NOT a mechanic !

[Kube]

Originally Posted by alchemy

You need a new mechanic. Never use an undersized bolt in place of the intended size.

You said it first!
My gosh, get away from that clown NOW!

If those bolts need to be forced in with much more than a tap, something, typically the rod(s) are bent. Even a slight bend will throw the alignment off.

[Seth Swoboda]

Hey fellas, there are a few details missing. This car has a columbia rearend. I've seen the car and it is not entirley stock. It was suggested using a 7/16 in bolt becuase of the non-stock rearend.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

Hey fellas, there are a few details missing. This car has a columbia rearend. I've seen the car and it is not entirley stock. It was suggested using a 7/16 in bolt becuase of the non-stock rearend.

Seth, a Columbia won't affect the alignment of the radius rods.
I feel strongly that one or both rods are bent. Not an unusual occurrence as many uninformed folks use these to raise the car.

Does anyone really believe that Ford forced the bolts in when the vehicle was rolling along on the assembly line?

I can't imagine forcing this assembly and expecting the rear chassis to be properly aligned.

[rockfla]

Kube


For the "uninformed" who have never dealt with this issue before and for the radius rod that "could" bent but not enough to see with the naked eye, how would one go about checking just how straight (or bent) the rod is???? OR how would you check the one in question in this post???? Bolt center to bolt center???

[Seth Swoboda]

I don't remember the exact issue with the rear but it has some kind of modification. It's not a stock chassis entirely.

[Ricosan]

Tim the passenger side rod is about 1/4” forward of the hole. Needs to slide back.
Mart I will try that.
Seth, I have the 1/2” bolt, it just won’t line up to go through the passenger side radius rod. I will need a castle nut.
Richard

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Ricosan

Tim the passenger side rod is about 1/4” forward of the hole. Needs to slide back.
Mart I will try that.
Seth, I have the 1/2” bolt, it just won’t line up to go through the passenger side radius rod. I will need a castle nut.
Richard

I have one I can send you!!!! Let me have your address. NC- National Course thread OR NF National Fine thread????

[Seth Swoboda]

Ricosan,

What is the issue with the rearend? I can't remember exactly but there is something different about it.

[Tim Ayers]

Seems like we need a little more information. If it was driven unbolted like that, more than likely that radius rod is bent.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Kube

Seth, a Columbia won't affect the alignment of the radius rods.
I feel strongly that one or both rods are bent. Not an unusual occurrence as many uninformed folks use these to raise the car.

Does anyone really believe that Ford forced the bolts in when the vehicle was rolling along on the assembly line?

I can't imagine forcing this assembly and expecting the rear chassis to be properly aligned.

Ford wouldn't force it for sure, but without better pictures it's hard to say what is going on or what the mechanic did.

If the rear was removed from the car or the rod is bent, then there are number of potential reasons that could cause the issue.

[rich b]

Do what Mart said in post #8.

Put the torque tube bolt in first, then put a drift in one of the rear bolt holes and use it to align and install the other once the first bolt is thru the hole the second should go in without to much trouble.

If it fights you; use the drift to hold the hole in alignment and tighten the first bolt at which point the second hole should stay in alignment when the drift is removed.

Then tighten all the rest of the bolts.