Motor stand adapter for Model A engine

[50Trucking]

Are there any good how to designs to make an adapter to hold the model A engine? This is my first tear down of an A engine and it looks like I need to bolt it up twice. Once at the flywheel housing and at the water passage on the side of the block maybe?

[oldspert]

Most of the parts dealers have a ready made engine holder that fits a generic engine stand. Cost is usually around $110 but well worth it. Bolts to the water inlet side and secures at the oil pan rail.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by 50Trucking

Are there any good how to designs to make an adapter to hold the model A engine? This is my first tear down of an A engine and it looks like I need to bolt it up twice. Once at the flywheel housing and at the water passage on the side of the block maybe?

The four adjustable arms that come with your engine stand will work for the flywheel side, but you may need to make some tubular spacers and use longer bolts to get around the crankshaft end once the flywheel housing is removed. As oldspert says, easiest thing for the water inlet side is to use the adapter sold by the vendors, see for example https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8613&cat=41910. Others have come up with their own variations for this using angle iron, do a search on this forum to see what they’ve come up with.

If you use the commercial product you won’t need to grab it at the flywheel end, which takes care of that issue.

[nkaminar]

The threaded holes where the water inlet is are strong enough to hold an engine. Use grade 5 bolts and make sure they bottom out in the holes. Add washers if necessary to make the bolts fit tight.

Use some tack welds to keep the arms that are supplied with the stand from moving. You can grind off the tack welds if you want to use the stand for a modern engine.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

The threaded holes where the water inlet is are strong enough to hold an engine. Use grade 5 bolts and make sure they bottom out in the holes. Add washers if necessary to make the bolts fit tight.

Use some tack welds to keep the arms that are supplied with the stand from moving. You can grind off the tack welds if you want to use the stand for a modern engine.

Looks just about like mine. One wants to be careful when "swinging" the engine around the stand-off. Depending on the configuration at the time it may be off-balance. Have two people available when releasing the pivot.

I always kind of liked the engine stand in Victor Page's Model A book - it has the advantage of a "gear" rotation. But it suffers from "two rails" and impeded access. There is no perfect engine stand.









Joe K

[Gene F]

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Originally Posted by JayJay

The four adjustable arms that come with your engine stand will work for the flywheel side, but you may need to make some tubular spacers and use longer bolts to get around the crankshaft end once the flywheel housing is removed.

How stable is that? I have the stand with 4 wheels.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by oldspert

Most of the parts dealers have a ready made engine holder that fits a generic engine stand. Cost is usually around $110 but well worth it. Bolts to the water inlet side and secures at the oil pan rail.

Closer to $180 these days.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Gene F

How stable is that? I have the stand with 4 wheels.

Quite stable. As long as the engine doesn’t extend its center of mass past the front wheels (which it doesn’t, at least on mine - Harbor Fright 1000 lb) then you are golden. Seems to me that my extensions are about 3-1/2 inches or so, but don’t quote me on that. Those are to bolt to the block without the flywheel housing. And of course, without the flywheel.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by JayJay

Quite stable. As long as the engine doesn’t extend its center of mass past the front wheels (which it doesn’t, at least on mine - Harbor Fright 1000 lb) then you are golden. Seems to me that my extensions are about 3-1/2 inches or so, but don’t quote me on that. Those are to bolt to the block without the flywheel housing. And of course, without the flywheel.

Like some sections of old pipe to sleve the bolts?

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Like some sections of old pipe to sleve the bolts?

Gene - pipe would work. I took some 1” cold rolled and drilled down the center on the lathe. If it’s worth doing, it’s worth overdoing. Don’t have the setup close, but my recollection is that took 7/16” bolts to screw onto the block. I don’t remember whether those are coarse or fine thread.

[Martinbuilt]

I bought one from snyders, although it seemed like a lot to spend.
No regrets, though. It's very solid, and allows you to spin the motor nose down, which makes hanging the flywheel much easier.
Also, there are two pins that engage a couple pan mounting holes in the block. The water neck bolts are strong, but I like having 4 mounting points

[CarlG]

Just a hint: On mine, I drilled and tapped a couple of holes in order to have a place to store the bolts I use to bolt the adapter to the engine, that way I don't have to turn my shop upside down looking for the bolts when I need to use it again.

[California Travieso]

You can use the “search this Forum” tool in the upper right hand corner. Search for “engine stand adapter” and you will find many discussions that include how to make your own adapter.

David Serrano

[Dan McEachern]

Just FYI for you guys on engine stand adapters. The KRW stands have the engine pretty well balanced. The center of rotation on a KRW stand adapter is 7" from the bellhousing surface and about 4 1/4" from the pan rail. If you are going to make one, I'm pretty happy with that balance point.

[katy]

Originally Posted by Joe K

One wants to be careful when "swinging" the engine around the stand-off. Depending on the configuration at the time it may be off-balance. Have two people available when releasing the pivot. Joe K

That's one of the reasons why I put a worm drive reduction gear on my engine stand.

[50Trucking]

They want 185.00 now and i feel i can make one for less. Just wandering what others have done

[California Travieso]

Originally Posted by 50Trucking

They want 185.00 now and i feel i can make one for less. Just wandering what others have done

Use the “search this Forum” tool.

David Serrano