Closed Cab pick up roof question

[Bob from Northport]

On a 1928 Closed cab, are there supposed to be rain gutters installed over the doors?? WE are replacing the roof on 28, but there were no gutters on the old rotted roof.

[Lawrie]

Yes
Lawrie

[Joe K]

The rain gutters were not produced for a long while. My truck earlier owner used aluminum gutter extrusion which is held on with aluminum nails every 6 inches or so.

I've always thought to replace that with the repop gutters available now - which are "closer" to the original at my last inspection, but not exact. They involve the gutter which is applied, and then a "cover" is applied and snapped in to cover the nailheads.

I'll see if they're available. Yes, in aluminum and I think the nailing is "reversed" over the steel originals. Still self cover. Better than is what on my truck now.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8331&cat=41817

Perhaps someone who knows their truck gutters are original could comment. It's been 40 years since I've thought about this.

There is "a way" to apply the nail cover across the back of the cab and around the corner pillars to make it like Ford did it. I believe Marco in his most excellent download of truck cab roof replacement pix covers this with examples of the original before removal, and replacement with new.

Joe K

[Bob C]

Here is a picture Marco posted.

[Neil Wilson]

Originally Posted by Bob from Northport

On a 1928 Closed cab, are there supposed to be rain gutters installed over the doors?? WE are replacing the roof on 28, but there were no gutters on the old rotted roof.

Yes, there were rain gutter assemblies originally. The first image is the gutter. The second image is the engineering drawing of the cover for the 150-A Station Wagon. The 82-A closed cab used a shorter cover of the same design.

[wrndln]

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Neil,
The slide in drawing show 97, I assume inches. I believe the pickup slid-in pieces are about 31+". They are virtually impossible to find. I posted an end view of the slide-in piece I got somewhere.
Rusty Nelson

[Joe K]

I have it downloaded somewhere on my computer(s) but does Marco's most excellent photo file of a roof replacement still exist somewhere online?


Just for reference...


Joe K

[Lawrie]

On another issue, my 28ccpu has a lot of wind noise from the visor at anything over 40mph.
Is any one elses the same .
And ideas how to make it quiter.
Lawrie

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

On another issue, my 28ccpu has a lot of wind noise from the visor at anything over 40mph.
Is any one elses the same .
And ideas how to make it quiter.
Lawrie

The original visor was covered over "from both sides" with fabric. There were metal retainers at the left and right edges which I can best describe as being akin to three ring binder retainers, but only 7 or so inches long. (There are two"tangs" that you push through the cover and bend to retain the fabric fold within two pieces and pinch the fabric.)

I see from Snyders that original visor frames have holes punched for the retaining clips. They say that repop visor frames don't include the holes and the original style retaining clips don't seem to be available. Instead they substitute clips with rivets as shown below.

Confirmation on original v. repop frames. I have the remains of an original assembly and it has holes AND the clips - and a bit of fabric left. A repop frame nada.

The original cover is "sewn through" using the metal frame as a pattern. One has to have a sewing machine "long-arm" style to be able to do this. I used my mother's Singer - and broke several needles as the needles hit the frame metal. She was not happy.

Anyway, the "kit" which is sold now "looks" like it is sewn through but it is made more as a "pocket" into which you insert the frame. The fabric is folded & pinched at the top where the open edge of the pocket is. THIS pocket construction may be where your problem is.

Some I have heard use Contact Cement to simulate the sew thru action using the glue to restrain the "flap." This might be a challenge to do in actual life since you technically get one "contact" - or at least a good contact and press hard the second try.

The repop "cover kits" are nice in that they have at least one "bound" edge which is set off nicely with the screws and washers attaching the assembly to the cab front. I'm not sure the assembly was that elaborate in real life - more just "folded appropriately" in the area of the mounting holes. Might be worth looking at some "Ford Pictures" to see more on this. Marco's pix might show this.




Joe K

[Lawrie]

Joe, Thank you for the detailed info.
My sun visor is one from Snyders, it looks nice but is the pocket type like you say.
I may be able to get the local upholsterer guy to sew it around.
I will look tomorrow.
Lawrie

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by wrndln

Neil,
The slide in drawing show 97, I assume inches. I believe the pickup slid-in pieces are about 31+". They are virtually impossible to find. I posted an end view of the slide-in piece I got somewhere.
Rusty Nelson

Rusty, that could be duplicated fairly easily on a Pullmax. With the dimensions you have, a male & female die can be water-jetted out of plate steel. If it were first drawn in SolidWorks, the program will figure the exact width of what the blank would need to be sheared to.

[wrndln]

Brent,
It would be great if someone with a PullMax would make some of them. I don't have a PullMax and wouldn't know how to use it if I did, as I am not a machinist. I know Rock Hill Will Cronkite has a PullMax machine. He stamped in the 3 ribs in a curtain tray pan for my 29 phaeton. The repro pans ribs were way off as far as the stiffening ribs are concerned, so I had Brookville Roadster make me a pan without ribs in it and Will graciously stamped in the ribs for me. Dan Bixby is also looking for rain gutters for his 29 pickup. Unfortunately, the demand for the authentic style rain gutters is pretty low.
Rusty

[Joe K]

You could count me in for two pair of rain gutters - one for the Avatar, the other for the "body on sawhorses."


Joe K