The Ford Barn

Bob from Northport · 12-06-2015, 10:00 AM

We have a 28 Roadster truck in the shop with Model B engine and Schofield OHV engine. Twin carburetors on a Riley intake. This truck runs so fast (80mph+) it is scary. It turns such high RPM's that the radiator can't keep up with the water flow, and spits it out the overflow. There is a new Miller water pump now on the engine, even further increasing the flow. The radiator is clean with no restrictions. Any suggestions on how to stop the overflow?? It reaches a level in the radiator about 2 1/2 Qts. low where it handles the coolant flow in the system. An infrared heat gun indicates it is not overheating. 180 to 190 all over the radiator and engine.

Royce P · 12-06-2015, 10:06 AM

You are over filling the radiator. Let it spit out and then don't add any more water.

burner31 · 12-06-2015, 10:13 AM

1. You may think about installing a temp gauge

2. Stop driving so damn fast

katy · 12-06-2015, 10:21 AM

Does it have a thermostat installed? If not, a thermostat may flow the slow.
Another option would be to cut down and/or drill holes in the impellers on the water pump.

daveymc29 · 12-06-2015, 10:28 AM

I bought a radiator neck and cap that a guy made up to mount down by the radiator overflow tube. It was pressurized to 2 1/2 lbs. Another fellow bought one at the same time as his car wouldn't retain water. Both of us drove from Barstow to Dallas and didn't lose a drop in mid June. They were made by Denny Specker, he's South Jordan, Utah 801 282 8005. He may still be making them'

colin1928 · 12-07-2015, 04:26 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Bob I also use the miller/cragar water pump on my overhead the easiest way to stop over flow is using Bill Stripes undersize crank pulley

Bob from Northport · 12-07-2015, 08:52 AM

We considered the smaller crank pulley. Thermostat is also a good idea.

Thanks!!!

mngreen · 12-07-2015, 04:42 PM

I run a B engine with Cragar OHV together with Miller water pump. After I replaced the radiator with a new Brassworks 10-fin, no more overheating or problems with coolant blowing out the overflow tube. No need for different pulley. I always leave the coolant level below the baffle.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 12-07-2015, 04:58 PM

Why not a COOLANT RECOVERY TANK?
Bill Cool

mngreen · 12-07-2015, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Why not a COOLANT RECOVERY TANK?
Bill Cool

How 'bout the 'ole roofing nail trick??

Tom Endy · 12-07-2015, 06:30 PM

You might check that the radiator has a baffle in it at the top of the tank. Modern radiator shops don't know about Model A baffles and often leave them out.

The baffle should have a hole in it that the overflow tube sticks up through.

Tom Endy

Bob from Northport · 12-07-2015, 11:39 PM

Yes, there is a baffle with a hole, and I tried the nail trick first thing. Snyders has a Riley pulley that they say cuts water pump output by 30%. Anyone use one of these??

12-06-2015, 10:00 AM	#1
Bob from Northport Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: 215 E. 6th Street Northport, Michigan 49670 Posts: 941	Radiator/cooling question We have a 28 Roadster truck in the shop with Model B engine and Schofield OHV engine. Twin carburetors on a Riley intake. This truck runs so fast (80mph+) it is scary. It turns such high RPM's that the radiator can't keep up with the water flow, and spits it out the overflow. There is a new Miller water pump now on the engine, even further increasing the flow. The radiator is clean with no restrictions. Any suggestions on how to stop the overflow?? It reaches a level in the radiator about 2 1/2 Qts. low where it handles the coolant flow in the system. An infrared heat gun indicates it is not overheating. 180 to 190 all over the radiator and engine. __________________ Bob from Northport Northport, Michigan

12-06-2015, 10:06 AM	#2
Royce P Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tulsa OK Posts: 476	Re: Radiator/cooling question You are over filling the radiator. Let it spit out and then don't add any more water. __________________ 1910 Touring 1914 Touring 1915 Touring 1917 Torpedo Runabout

12-06-2015, 10:13 AM	#3
burner31 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Shawnee, Ok Posts: 3,471	Re: Radiator/cooling question 1. You may think about installing a temp gauge 2. Stop driving so damn fast __________________ Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B

12-06-2015, 10:21 AM	#4
katy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 5,046	Re: Radiator/cooling question Does it have a thermostat installed? If not, a thermostat may flow the slow. Another option would be to cut down and/or drill holes in the impellers on the water pump. __________________ If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn!

12-06-2015, 10:28 AM	#5
daveymc29 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Danville, CA Posts: 1,554	Re: Radiator/cooling question I bought a radiator neck and cap that a guy made up to mount down by the radiator overflow tube. It was pressurized to 2 1/2 lbs. Another fellow bought one at the same time as his car wouldn't retain water. Both of us drove from Barstow to Dallas and didn't lose a drop in mid June. They were made by Denny Specker, he's South Jordan, Utah 801 282 8005. He may still be making them'

12-07-2015, 04:26 AM	#6
colin1928 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Australa Melbourne Posts: 878	Re: Radiator/cooling question Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Bob I also use the miller/cragar water pump on my overhead the easiest way to stop over flow is using Bill Stripes undersize crank pulley

12-07-2015, 08:52 AM	#7
Bob from Northport Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: 215 E. 6th Street Northport, Michigan 49670 Posts: 941	Re: Radiator/cooling question We considered the smaller crank pulley. Thermostat is also a good idea. Thanks!!! __________________ Bob from Northport Northport, Michigan

12-07-2015, 04:42 PM	#8
mngreen Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA Posts: 155	Re: Radiator/cooling question I run a B engine with Cragar OHV together with Miller water pump. After I replaced the radiator with a new Brassworks 10-fin, no more overheating or problems with coolant blowing out the overflow tube. No need for different pulley. I always leave the coolant level below the baffle.

12-07-2015, 04:58 PM	#9
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Radiator/cooling question Why not a COOLANT RECOVERY TANK? Bill Cool __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

12-07-2015, 06:30 PM	#11
Tom Endy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,131	Re: Radiator/cooling question You might check that the radiator has a baffle in it at the top of the tank. Modern radiator shops don't know about Model A baffles and often leave them out. The baffle should have a hole in it that the overflow tube sticks up through. Tom Endy

12-07-2015, 11:39 PM	#12
Bob from Northport Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: 215 E. 6th Street Northport, Michigan 49670 Posts: 941	Re: Radiator/cooling question Yes, there is a baffle with a hole, and I tried the nail trick first thing. Snyders has a Riley pulley that they say cuts water pump output by 30%. Anyone use one of these?? __________________ Bob from Northport Northport, Michigan