03-12-2020, 01:14 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Essex Vermont
Posts: 599
|
Engine oil
What's the opinion here for oil? I have a rebuilt 59ab with break-in oil in it presently, I think it has zink in it. Now ready for first oil change, I want to use full synthetic and ad a zink additive to it. Opinions? Ken
|
03-12-2020, 01:20 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,525
|
Re: Engine oil
Pick up any good engine oil. There is still enough zinc in them for a flathead. I use 10W 30 Valvoline.
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
03-12-2020, 01:30 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Bonita, CA
Posts: 1,374
|
Re: Engine oil
Mobil I 10W 30 would be fine. I use straight 30W here in SoCa. Any good synthetic sold at Walmart. Forget Zinc in a flathead. Very low valve spring pressures.
|
03-12-2020, 01:40 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Granger (Northern) Indiana
Posts: 1,520
|
Re: Engine oil
IMO, if you need to use an additive, you're using the wrong oil. Best to pick an oil that meets all your requirements. Too much ZDDP can cause more damage than not enough.
I agree with jack on using regular Valvoline on all my flat tappet engines, but do use Valvoline VR-1 10W30 non-synthetic on my roadster's flathead because of a pretty radical cam, although probably overkill. |
03-12-2020, 02:08 PM | #5 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 84
|
Re: Engine oil
Agreed with the above statement. Most oils contain enough zinc that ZDDP additive should not be used.
I use SAE straight 40 weight Shell Rotella for my 34’ Roadster. Never an issue. As I have always been told oil passages in these flatheads are large for straight and not to use a synthetic. I’m sure someone can explain why synthetic has disadvantages. That’s what I’ve always been told and sticking with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
03-12-2020, 02:21 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sweden
Posts: 3,045
|
Re: Engine oil
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
If your engine is not completely done with the break-in...synthetic additives doesn´t do you any good... |
03-12-2020, 03:56 PM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 886
|
Re: Engine oil
I agree with flatheadmurre, I go a bout 10k miles and then switch to synthetic, every gas engine I know of that has used Mobil 1 has ran over 200k miles before a rebuild and has shown less wear than any gas engine with the same miles using Dinosaur oil. I also take into account whether the operating conditions are in a clean environment , sometimes oil can be contaminated by dirt or moisture which means more frequent oil changes are necessary, more frequent changes from the economic standpoint makes synthetic less cost effective versus Dinosaur oil. Just my opinion.
|
03-12-2020, 04:36 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 10,302
|
Re: Engine oil
I but anything the local "Dollar General" has on sale for less than $3 a quart as long as it has an "API" seal on it. 10-30. 10-40, whatever; just no non-detergent.
|
03-12-2020, 08:03 PM | #9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Plainview, Texas
Posts: 757
|
Re: Engine oil
10W 30 Valvoline ZR1
|
03-12-2020, 08:50 PM | #10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: (Not far enough...) Outside of DC
Posts: 3,387
|
Re: Engine oil
I've seen local grocery store brands have the API starburst. That works.
__________________
-Jeff H Have you thought about supporting the Early Ford V-8 Foundation Museum? |
03-12-2020, 09:11 PM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: St. Michael, Minnesota
Posts: 1,713
|
Re: Engine oil
Search Bobtheoilman.
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|