Rear Brake Question

[tennsmith]

I feel pretty stupid asking this question, but I'm also pretty tired and ready to get on with it. I have removed the rear brakes from my A (both sides) to install the Flathead Ted square pins and floating adjustment mechanism. No issue with that...I'm having trouble re-installing the backing plate/emergency shoe plate back on the car. When I removed it, I took the operating lever off the emergency brake toggle mechanism and left everything else in place, rear radius rods, service brake arm, etc. But it would appear, reading the Les Andrews book, that the entire backing plate, service brake shoes/arm and emergency brake plate and toggle arm w/operating lever can be put back on the car as a unit and there is no mention of the rear radius rod or how to navigate through it. I've fought this thing for hours and my nicely painted backing plate and arms look like they've been tied behind the car and dragged for several miles. :-) Here is the question...the interference point is the rear radius rod. I can get the service brake rod through it by toggling backwards, but it's a no go on the emergency brake arm. Is the radius rod supposed to be removed? Is this a safe thing to do? I have both sides off the car and have been using a couple of bolts just to register the radius rod in the axle housing. It appears to be easy enough to remove....if the torque tube is sufficient to keep the rear end from moving. I've got jackstands under the axle, but the body is supported only by the rear spring.

What's the secret? I really really do not want to remove the emergency brake operating lever and try and re-install with the radius rod and everything else in place. Installation is OK, but getting the spring wound up and in place would seem to be next to impossible with everything mounted due to the inaccessibility. Help!! :-)

[loubob]

I am doing the brakes on my car right now.
With jack stands on the frame, remove the radius rods and then install backing plate.
Then reinstall rad. rod on backing plate and insert the longer bolts.
I speak from experience.

[Bruce of MN]

I recently replaced the emergency brake springs and had to remove the arms to put on the new springs. Unfortunately, I didn't save the web site that showed a spring tool made from an old screwdriver, with a notch dremeled in the side of the blade to hook the spring, but that is easy to visualize. I also used a loop of mason's twine to pull the spring over the arm after disconnecting the rod from the arm. The second one was easier than the first!

[tennsmith]

The twine is a great idea....I found I could get the spring wrapped around the shaft and to the point where it needed to be hooked over the arm, but that is where the trouble started. :-) Next time I'll try the twine idea. thanks!!

[harleytoprock]

I installed my completely assembled backing plates( with e-brake lever and spring installed) on to the rear axle with the radius rods off the car and the brake rods disconnected at both ends. I install the rear two backing plate bolts to keep the backing plate in place and then feed in the radius rod. I slide the radius end back and under the levers, install remaining two backing plate bolts and then attach to the torque tube. After all four backing plate bolts are in, I attach the e-brake and service brake rods on the backing plate levers. The front rods ends are attached when I get to the brake adjusting point. I hope this helps.

[larrys40]

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tennsmith,

The backing plate can't be installed with theservice arm and removeable emergency brake lever plate together through the opening with the radius arms installed. Do not remove the radius arms... here's the process .... I have done many..many a brake jobs. they are one of my specialties!

Install the backing plate ( service brakes bench installed if desired ) and force the lever outward against the cam. Install the lever through the opening of the radius hole at the axle housing and while the lever is extended bring the backing plate over the axle and into place. It is a piece of cake.... Then, force the service brake lever back over to it's normal position and install the emergency brake carrier plate, e-brake assembly. I install the drum and then the spring and lever ( key installed ) and then use a wire and special screwdriver to pull the spring around the lever. It's really pretty easy. I prefer this method as opposed to some thinking it is easier to remove the radius assemblies.. There are definitely possible complexities with that and it was not the way Ford intended for service either.

drop me a pm if you need. happy to assist.
Larry Shepard

[harleytoprock]

I should also mention that I have the anti rattle springs on the rods but not attched to the chassis. The rattle springs are attached to the chassis at the end when both rod ends are attached and I check check for spring alignment. Make sure your brake shoes are centered.

[harleytoprock]

Larry, I installed the assembled plates with the radius rods off. Then I installed the radius rods after the plates are in place. Works fine, its a piece of cake

[larrys40]

Harley, not sure if you are taking out the bolt up at the front end, but most of the time you can't get the bolt out ( nut yes, and one side rod ) with the brake cross shaft in place ( at least with mechanical brakes)... are you removing that too?

[harleytoprock]

Larry, Yes, I'm talking the bolt that mounts the radius rods to the torque tube at the front.
The bolt on mine goes in and out with no interference with the mechanical brake cross shaft in place. Why are you saying that the bolt is difficult to remove?

[John Kuhnast]

You can take a bunch of pennys and stick them in the spring until the spring is long enough to hook up. Step on the brake and the pennys fall out. This really does work, John