1933 stock v8 40 compression test results & advice welcome

[torpedo]

Dear fordbarn members,
I regularly read posts on this forum and I learn a lot thanks to your contributions.
My car is a stock v8 model 40 that was manufactured 1Q 1933. It has a Stromberg 97, stock helmet distributor and still on 6V pos ground.
The engine was fully restored presumably in 1995 and never suffered failures.
I am in the course of replacing the distributor (supplied by Mike @ Thirdgen ).
Needed to sanity check the engine so took compression and results as follows
Cyl 1-> 77 psi
Cyl 2-> 72 psi
Cyl 3-> 74 psi
Cyl 4-> 75 psi
Cyl 5-> 72 psi
Cyl 6-> 72 psi
Cyl 7-> 80 psi
Cyl 8-> 80 psi

Q1: should i be worried about the above numbers ? Any useful comment ?
Q2: Any hint/advice on best way to remove helmet dist. without removing radiator ? A guy on this forum stated it can be done from bottom up after gen-fan assembly is removed and another guy explained it is best removed from underneath. What is the best way to do it ?

Your advice will be very much welcome.
Max

[drolston]

A stock engine with those numbers will run just fine. It is good that the numbers are all fairly consistent.


When doing a compression test it is best to do it on a warm engine. Be sure all plugs are out so you get maximum crank speed. Have a fully charged battery. Block the throttle and choke open so there is no restriction on the intake side.

[Karl]

I think those figures are fine.

For the dizzy remove the generator/Fan and the fan belt
Place a piece of cardboard against the radiator (To Protect your knuckles )
Remove the dizzy/Coil assembly from the top (3 * 1/2 inch bolts ).

When you put the new one in use a couple of carburretor studs loosely screwed into 2 of the 3 the bolt holes . Use grease only on the gasket . Use the carb studs to align the dizzy body then gently turn the rotor until the tang drops into place and the dizzy body snugs up right against the front of the motor . If it doesn't snug up tight the tang may well be 180 degrees out and bolting it up then will crack the body (many of us have the T-Shirt ) If every thing is snug put one bolt in and then remove the carb studs and replace with the bolt one at a time-If Michael rebuilt it it will be great -Karl

[ford38v8]

Front wheels on car ramps.
Remove the lower front splash pan from behind the radiator.
Insert a fitted cardboard up onto the radiator surface for protection.
Remove distributor caps, then remove distributor.
When replacing, use longer studs in 2 of the 3 mounting holes to locate the distributor correctly. Do not tighten mounting bolts until seated firmly and correctly on the block.

[torpedo]

Thank you all for very useful replies.
Karl and ford38v8 have different approaches but I will decide which after further inspection.
as recommended on this forum I have made three studs to facilitate fitting and adjustment of the dist.
Apart from grease on gasket, any other "dressing" needed on the dist before it goes in the car ?


Thanks guys you're great

[Terry,OH]

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There will be a small oil hole in the rear of the distributor just above the input shaft. Oil cup in the front of the distributor. Lubricate both with clean engine oil about 3 drops into the cup and 5 drops at the rear. Once installed the rear oil hole will be lubricated by the engine pumping oil, so it needs no other attention.
If you can get Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) add the correct amount to the engine oil,it may help with compression. Both with valve movement and piston rings. Compression may also increase after driving the car more.

[Bill OH]

Another method for removal: Disconnect coil wire and vacuum line from left side and remove 5/16ths cap screw from left side - you will need to remove left distributor cap. Now go to the right side, remove distributor cap and unbolt loom from intake manifold. Remove belt from generator and pumps, then remove the two remaining 5/16s cap screw and the distributor can be removed from the right side (this is facilitated by removal of the right side spark plug wire loom. You can put a card board shield on the radiator - I never have.

Reinstalling the distributor, take a look at the slot on the end of the cam and determine its orientation and aline the distributor tang to correspond. The gasket will stay on the distributor without grease. Set the distributor on the engine and it should slide into place very easy - may have to turn the rotor, but DO NOT FORCE IT INTO PLACE. IF YOU FORCE IT YOU WILL CAUSE DAMAGE.##$%#@. Continue the job by replacing everything in reverse order.

I have had the condenser ground strap break on two different occasions - I soldered a ground wire on the end of the condenser and grounded it under a coil mounting screw. I have also connected a pig tail to the coil-condenser terminal and zip tied it to the spark plug wire loom with a ball of solder on the opposite end to facilitate connecting a dwell tach.

[Planojc]

For me it's been easier to remove and install from the bottom.