Rear window wood, 30 Town sedan

[Terry, NJ]

OK, I can't get the hang of posting pics, so I'll have to give a good discription. Close your eyes and imagine the rear window of a T.S. and the wood that surrounds it. We won't concern ourselves with the top, but the bottom (Belt Rail?) and sides. The sides are two upright pieces about the height of the window (tenoned) + the "Riser" piece that goes directly over the "Belt rail" and the bottom of the window. It is this "Riser" that I'm working on. I made it the length of the original pc, (23 1/2") long, but fitted between the uprights, leaves about 1/4" gap at each end. Can this be correct? The two pcs match perfectly, but I can't believe they aren't supposed to fit snugly between the uprights. I'll remake the damn thing if that's what it calls for but I really don't want to.
T.I.A. Terry

[tuneman]

It just might be caused by shrinkage ? The original part is now dried out from being 80 years old !

[Terry, NJ]

Originally Posted by tuneman

It just might be caused by shrinkage ? The original part is now dried out from being 80 years old !

I considereds that briefly, until I thought of just how much shrinkage there was 1/2" in 23", also this would have been the only part to shrink . All the other wooden parts have held their size relative to the inside of the body. In other words, The whole wooden frame would have shrunk away from the body if shrinkage were an issue. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Terry

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Hey Terry, they actually are supposed to fit tightly.

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[Terry, NJ]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Hey Terry, they actually are supposed to fit tightly.

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Thanks for the pic, Brent! But I see some differences right off. The "Belt rail" ? is different (much thicker) and mine has no wood piece in the center, just a metal strap from floor to the Belt rail (If that's what it's called) Because I have no experience with these wood kits, I'm duplicating the original wood pieces as closely as possible. I will make a change in this case though and remake the piece to fit snugly in between the window uprights, even though the original didn't. Thanks again!
Terry

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[Rusty Homestead Fl]

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Hey Terry. I did as you and reproduced the rear window wood using the old framing as a pattern. If I can get my better half to help I'll send you some pic's tomorrow. Mine is a 31 Murray TS if that matters. Everything on mine fits pretty snug so hopefully my pics will help. Rusty

[Rusty Homestead Fl]

Terry. I pm'd you.

[29FordGuy]

Terry,
Here are a couple of pics of my '29 Briggs TS rear window. I am sure that Briggs and Murray were the same dimensions. As I remember I had about a 1/8" gap which was probably due to shrinkage. I assume there is no way your vertical pieces moved any? I do not remember how the verticals were attached to the cross members. It seems that the length of the spacer should be equal to the outside width of the window metal (23-1/2"?) because the metal is flush with the inside of the vertical pieces. Mine is now uphostered so I can not measure it. Hope this helps some.

[Terry, NJ]

Thanks for the pics and info. I was away and couldn't post. I Have the pics, just need to be able to. The uprights along the side of the window are mortise and tenon type joints. The belt and top rails are mortised and the uprights have the tenons. Then they are locked in place with 4 #12 wood screws. Reason tells me that this is true, that the riser/spacer should be the same length as the window frame, However.... It ain't even close! As I said 1/4 " at each end and it didn't shrink that much! No matter, I made a new one that fits snugly. Thanks again!
Terry

Originally Posted by 29FordGuy

Terry,
Here are a couple of pics of my '29 Briggs TS rear window. I am sure that Briggs and Murray were the same dimensions. As I remember I had about a 1/8" gap which was probably due to shrinkage. I assume there is no way your vertical pieces moved any? I do not remember how the verticals were attached to the cross members. It seems that the length of the spacer should be equal to the outside width of the window metal (23-1/2"?) because the metal is flush with the inside of the vertical pieces. Mine is now uphostered so I can not measure it. Hope this helps some.

[Gerard]

I have just finished the same job on my Murray, and I wonder how is the glas held inplace . With some kind of hooks just like a tudor ? Or is the garnish used to hold glas and rubber in place. The same for the rear quarter windows ?

Terry : if you need some extra pictures ? I have send you a private email ( while a go )

Thanks,

Gerard

[Terry, NJ]

Gerard, This is my first time posting pics (assuming thay post) Nahhh, you need a URL and mine are in my pic folders that came with the Kodak software. I suppose it's possible, but it's beyond me. I can post pics in a program that calls for you to "browse", but mot one that calls for a URL.
Gee, I hope Ryan reads this!
Terry

Originally Posted by Gerard

I have just finished the same job on my Murray, and I wonder how is the glas held inplace . With some kind of hooks just like a tudor ? Or is the garnish used to hold glas and rubber in place. The same for the rear quarter windows ?

Terry : if you need some extra pictures ? I have send you a private email ( while a go )

Thanks,

Gerard

[Gerard]

Originally Posted by Don Turley

Stationary rear window glass and quarter window glass in all closed vehicles is held in place by the window molding clamping against the rubber window channel to the body. I don't understand what "hooks" you mean on a Tudor.

Don Turley
www.donturley.com

Don , I have restored several tudors in my live and remember that the rear window glass was held in place with a kind of clip ( 2 ) But have to say that those cars were assembled at the Ford plant in Rotterdam in the Netherlands. I have seen those clips also in the Snyders catalogue or Brattons,


regards,

Gerard