Starter Switch Alignment Problem

[Aok]

I installed a new starter switch (vintique USA) and it did not seem to line up with the starter rod. I reinstalled old switch no problems ; old switch was ok I was installing a rebuild starter and figured I would put in a new switch. When comparing it to 2 old switches the new ones rod tube looked to be at a slightly different angle then the old one. No a problem as I put the old switch back and will send new back for refund.
Just wondering if anyone else had a similar problem.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Aok,

Yes, had exact same problem.

Hi tech answer:

1. Get one (1) pencil & one (1) piece of cardboard, about minimum 6" long x minimum 4-1/2" high.

2. Install old working switch w/starter rod screwed in.

3. Place cardboard on top of starter case on the engine side of the old switch, & with a pencil, "carefully" draw the outline of the profile of your old working switch & switch rod, being "extra" careful to get correct angle between the starter rod & the top of the starter.

4. Place cardboard diagram on a short 2x4 or a flat surface, to compare new starter switch's starter rod angle to angle drawn on diagram.

5. With small cylinder grinder in a Dremel tool, remove metal from the new switch until new switch rod is at the correct angle on the diagram.

6. Smooth out new angular elliptical metal opening in new switch with fine sandpaper so starter rod does not bind on sharp edges.

7, Re-install new starter switch & try again -- re-work opening if necessary.

Did mine as such -- hope this helps

[Aok]

Thanks for the advise also good to know it was not me.

[Willie Krash]

If you have an operational Ford switch I would keep it. Not directed at any supplier but copper isn't just copper. The really good stuff is quickly disappearing.
On very large starters I used to buy chrome-Moly copper posts and even copper with silver inlay. Those days are long gone.
Like steel copper comes in many forms. It's all pretty generic these days.

[700rpm]

As with a lot of repro stuff, I gave up on those and found a good used original. I have since bought a couple extras because you CAN NOT get that special bolt and nut that holds the cable on from any modern hardware store or bolt specialty shop. At least not in Portland.

[Will N]

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I think I remember reading somewhere that the contact in an original starter switch wasn't copper (as we have in the repros). It was some kind of alloy like bronze or brass, which is more springy than pure copper.

[Aok]

While the copper may be another problem ; the problem I had was the switch's rod tube was not at the correct angle to properly line up with starter rod.
See the 2nd post how H. L. Chauvin solved the problem. My old switch was good so i just sent new one back for a refund

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Aok,

Humble opinion:

In comparing the very latest Vintage repro starter switches to an original starter switch:

A. The interior copper spring bands appear to have the same springy tension, thickness, & width.

B. The exterior steel bodies appear to be the same thickness & hardness, with a very correct profile in plan, section, & (4) elevations.

C. The battery cable connector through bolt has a new additional rectangular washer under the head of this non-ferrous bolt which appears to add better protection to the moving interior spring.

D. While both the originals & earlier Vintage repro starter switches had a hidden interior "cardboard fiber" insert at the lower interior end of the switch's rod tube, (which gets beat up over time), the very latest Vintage repro switches have what appears to be a better designed & seemingly more durable & more substantial looking Delrin or synthetic type of cylindrical device to replace this cardboard fiber item. (With everything else appearing as durable as originals, this one interior end of rod tube item appeared to be a hidden late model Vintage repro starter switch "upgrade").

E. It appears that "if" Vintage would consider a very minor re-design, & manufacture the rear top of starter switch's body with a very slight elliptical opening, the rear, upper end of the switch rod tube could move up & down slightly to accommodate different angles of the different starter rod angles coming out of the floor board area, thus not only producing better starter switches, but reducing numbers of new starter switches that are returned to vendors.

F. Having Model A owners rework the Vintage starter switch rod tube may sound easy; but it is not as easy as one may think, & it is very time consuming to get it "correct" where the starter switch rod tube does not stick & allows the starter to continue rotating.

G. One time after starting with a new Vintage starter switch, the starter continued to rotate "after" the engine was running & I could not hear the starter rotating.

H. Most responsible vendors & parts manufacturers would very much appreciate getting feedback like this -- it is non-productive & very costly for them to receive, unwrap, check, & re-shelve "returned" merchandise.

I. Let us continue to try to be compassionate & try to help "everybody" -- today, "all" of us have problems & need help with problems -- LOL.

J. In summary, with the exception of the "design" problem in paragraph E. above, appears Vintage repro starter switches would receive an A+ for design & durability.