36 Steer column electrical problem

[Bruce in southern OH]

Drove the 36 yesterday evening, have not drove after dark this year and I found that I had a engine stall problem. The motor would start back up but something was just not right. I was showing a man the head lights before I headed home to find out which position was high and low beam and the Horn would sound as I turned the light switch. Left lights on and traveled home, slow down and motor would stop and I would place in gear quickly and start motor and go on. Checked car this morning and no power on the on/off column switch. Checked the shut off switch and it was hot but not the panel under dash. Rotated the light switch and no dash lights. When I checked again I had power and I started engine. I can turn light switch and kill all power/engine. Move light switch back and forth several times and have power back again, anyone have this problem or thoughts about electrical connections at end of column?? thanks Bruce

[koates]

Bruce, I guess by shut off switch you mean a main battery cable isolating switch. Some of those switches are only average quality and not good for the heavier current involved in a six volt system. Check the connections on it for loose or high resistance on the terminals or bypass it for a quick test. Your problem sounds like a bad connection in a main power supply like at the foot starter switch terminal where the main power is connected on the battery cable side or on the fuse terminals under the dash. Also check battery terminals and earth cable to engine/chassis. However there could also be connection problems inside the headlight switch at the bottom of the steering column. It might be over lubricated by a leaking steering box ! The reason I mention a problem with a main power connection is the fact that your engine stops when it goes back to idle speed and the headlight switch should have no effect on that. Of course in answering your questions I am presuming you car has an as built in 1936 electrical system and not modified. Spend some time and check/test all those main power supplies. Regards, Kevin.

[JSeery]

Sounds like something is shorting out. I would start by cleaning out the lighting switch at the base of the steering column. You can inspect the wiring connections at the same time. There is not a direct connection between the lighting circuit and the ignition circuit, so if the lighting circuit is the culprit, it must be drawing enough power to shut down the ignition. It is possible there are multiple problems. But then again if it was a dead short it would (or should) blow the lighting circuit fuse. Also will need to check for voltage all the way along the wiring starting at the main power connection at the fuse panel, then the ignition switch, then the gauges and the ignition resistor. The lighting circuit should be hot all the time.

[Bruce in southern OH]

I will check the connections at bottom of column, Horn button does not work now, Yesterday I could turn the light switch left and right and make horn sound. I started by checking the main battery cable isolation switch. Switch has been on car for decades, it seems fine, think problem is in base of column, no grease, very clean at base of steering column.

[Terry,OH]

Maybe this will help.

[Don]

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Change out horn wire,has a short to ground!!!!!!!!!!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thank you Terry,OH, Don and everyone! The problem seems to be the horn wire at the rod tip. Whom ever tried to fix the rod in past did not assemble the button or wire end correctly. All you can say if you had seen was "Bless their Heart". I have removed several wires that were ran to items that were left in car from the past. ( clean up ) Removed the bale from steering column and found the horn wire end soldered to an aluminum end. This made length to long and turn at a 90 degree angle. When I tried to straighten, found that every time I would, horns were on all the time.
Removed the horse shoe clip and removed rod from steering column.
Located another horn rod I had and drove both down to Don P's garage. We cleaned up both rods and used parts from both to make another working horn rod. I will install in the morning and let you know if this corrected. Thank you Don P., as always he figures a fix!!! Terry, OH., have not talked to you or anyone for months, any new cars/trucks ??

[Bruce in southern OH]

Terry, OH, everyone, have the light switch working and horn blowing now. (no ground)......NEW PROBLEM!! The switch in middle of steering wheel is one position off center??? Off is in the park light position, Park light is at 1:00 position. Straight up and down is head lights and left one position is the other head light (high or low? ) Put the spider back on light rod with it in the 12 and 6 position which matches the switch in middle of steering wheel. Have checked and rechecked with another car, any ideas, thanks Bruce

[koates]

Bruce, The only part that is moveable here is the position of the spider on the four flats on the bottom of the horn rod. Its in the incorrect position so needs moving around on the flat one position. Your description of the positions seems not quite correct. Make sure the Bakelite switch plate is located correctly in the notch of the switch housing, but it only can normally go one way. Regards, Kevin.

[koates]

Bruce, I just reread you post where you said you built up the horn rod using two different rods. Could the top steering wheel part of that rod be fitted out of position in relation to the four flats on the bottom of the rod? Need to compare it to a nice original 1936 horn rod. Good luck, Kevin.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Koates, the two raised parts of the center switch are at the 12 and 6 position. This makes the spider also at 12 and 6 position. I read on a SEARCH article on fordbarn that they made different switch bodies. 28 to 37 that moved in three position and one with 4 positions. Also I do not know if there is a wiring harness change. If some one installed a wiring Harness that had another item that is causing me to be one position off. Look at this thread: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...sition+problem

[koates]

Bruce, You do have four positions (including "off") on the headlight switch don't you ? And all your lights work as they should, correct ? So in that case there is a problem with the positioning of the rod / switch top in the steering column in relation to the actual position of the light switch. The change in the light switch came about in 1938 with the new dipper switch mounted on the floor and the light switch then having only three positions. You could remove the headlight switch intact from the bottom of the steering column and using a pair of pointy pliers into the two switch slots and rotate through all four positions to check for correct operation. If that's all OK then check out further the horn rod and spider for correct operation. Note the newer supplied spiders are now a casting and I don't like them at all. Make sure your spider is a pressed metal type as original. Regards, Kevin.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Koates, I have two positions left, off and one right. Could the wiring harness plastic base with the brass buttons be different??? Did this ever change?? ( they might have used a later wiring harness, is that possible? That would make it off one position, I will look and see if there is three brass, space, three brass, space, three brass buttons, thanks Bruce