Removing Yoke

[Franchise_24]

I'm trying to remove the yoke or front engine support off the Leatherback. Seems whoever had the car before me stuck some extra washers between it and the frame, and the crank holes don't line up properly if I would ever need to crank the engine, and the hood doesn't sit right. It doesn't appear you can remove the yoke without taking the front crank pulley off that is on the front of the engine. I have a socket to go on the ratchet nut, but my question is what is the trick to getting it off since it wants to turn like you are trying to crank the engine?

Thanks,
Neal

[31Abone]

Remove toe board ,remove gas pedal assy from back of bell housing ,take off at least one motor mount bolt each side and loosen the other,jack up motor use 3x4 under front of pan..maybe top hose also..have fun.

[Russell in Tulsa]

Do as mentioned then put the transmission in first or reverse and set the parking brake. Use a light hammer blow on the ratchet handle to shock it to help free it. You may find a wollered out hole that someone used extra washers to cover the gap in the crossmember.
Keep us posted.

[Joe K]

Mebbe try "holding" the engine in place? This could be done by leaving it in gear, or possibly removing the starter and putting a long bolt in to jamb the flywheel in place.

Someone sells a tool which can substitute for the starter and either "holds" - or can be used with a ratchet wrench to turn the engine over (like for timing, etc.)

Once you get the ratchet nut (technical term) removed, then you find out if you have a one piece or a two piece pulley. If one piece, you have to pull pulley and hub away from the seal - be careful as the hub spokes are wont to break easily. Use the BFH and a screwdriver - or a formal "puller" - at the "base" of those spokes - don't pry on the hub. You should be able to pull directly forward and remove the one piece pulley.

If two piece, the front portion of the hub should come off and you should be clear to work next on the yoke. Two bolts on the engine front and the below-crossmember nut and you have it.

You may not like what you see below the yoke - expect rust damage and a need to rebuild/restore this area - which can be done by experienced welders. There used to be a "shim piece" which worked similarly to your washers and thinner, but spread the load out over a larger area of the crossmember - not sure if this is available now. And it is sort of a "bandaid" - like the washers.

Oh. Don't forget to loosen before and re-tighten after the four bolts attaching the flywheel to either side of the frame supports - dropping the front of the engine changes the relative position of these four bolts in their holes.

Joe K

[Franchise_24]

Thanks for the info. Seems much more complicated than what I expected.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I use my special bent wrench on the crank nut and lay the wrench against the left frame rail. Just click the starter with the key off and the nut will be loose.

Nut............isn't it really a bolt?

[Franchise_24]

I ended up loosing the rear engine mounts and was able to jack the front up just enough to get the yoke out. Thanks for the info.