04-25-2017, 10:26 PM | #1 |
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Engine Rebuild
Looking for a company that sells an engine rebuild kit. I've done several searches on this website and Google with no definite results.
I have a 1929 CCPU with a stock motor that runs and has lots of blowby. I'm looking to rebuild it, whether that's just re-ringing/honing or going all the way and punching it out. Any helpful advice or a point in the right direction is very much appreciated! |
04-25-2017, 10:35 PM | #2 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
The days of Model A rebuild kits is long gone, but you can buy the gaskets and rings separately. Best to buy the copper gaskets for the head, manifold, carb, and coolant fittings. You'll have to inspect the babbit once you get it apart.
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04-25-2017, 10:36 PM | #3 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
Not going to know much about it until you take a look inside. It's hard to have a "kit" for the Model A because of the babbitt bearings.
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04-25-2017, 10:58 PM | #4 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
I rebuilt my engine using mostly Snyders, Brattons, and Berts parts. Just go through your engine and see what needs attention and make your parts list. If you don't already have it, I highly recommend getting Les Andrews red book.
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04-26-2017, 05:26 AM | #5 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
Also while you have the engine apart, be sure the cam gear isn't a 2 piece gear, fiber with an aluminum center. They are junk and get loose between the two parts. My fiber one piece gear looked good except for a small crack on one tooth, so I bought a new aluminum gear to install.
Speaking of rebuilt kits, I remember back in 1966 when my boss bought the rings, rod bearings, and gasket rebuild kit for his Chevy dump truck, with a 235 engine, for less than $10 through Montgomery Wards. |
04-26-2017, 09:19 AM | #6 | |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
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04-26-2017, 09:37 AM | #7 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
That's interesting that they expand the pistons and align the rods, because very few shops do either.
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04-26-2017, 10:02 AM | #8 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
Note also no new main bearings...but they do "adjust" them (whatever that means )
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04-26-2017, 10:09 AM | #9 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
Chev 6's had insert mains and had shims. Up to 53 they had babbitt rods. After that they had inserts in the rods.
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04-26-2017, 01:24 PM | #10 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
"6 cylinders and V-8s slightly higher."
I also like the idea that you get new oil. . |
04-26-2017, 03:14 PM | #11 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
Same price today but you only get the Oil Change!
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04-26-2017, 08:54 PM | #12 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
Hey guys I thought that I had a fairly decent knowledge on rebuilding motors but what is expanding the pistons I am baffled by my ignorance.
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04-26-2017, 08:57 PM | #13 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
Expanding may mean "knurling" them or installing skirt expanders inside. My guess
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04-26-2017, 09:31 PM | #14 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
Yes, it is knurling the pistons. I had an NOS piston knurler and only used it once before it was stolen, or I'd use it again on my Model A pistons. I have a light ticking noise, and I'm pretty sure the number 3 or 4 piston has a slightly collapsed skirt from a few bad overheats. And of course the bad overheats were caused by someone using straight water and letting the rust build up in the rear of the block.
Isn't it amazing how one bad move can cause so much trouble. |
04-26-2017, 09:47 PM | #15 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
Another thing to check, once the valves are out, is whether you can make the center cam bearing click by moving the cam up and down. If so then you'll need to determine what's worn. Bearing in block, or the cam bearing surface, or both.
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04-26-2017, 10:41 PM | #17 |
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Re: Engine Rebuild
When I was a kid, I watched my father do up the engine in the Austin he drove to work. He had the pistons expanded but it was a shot peeing process where lead shot was blasted at the piston walls from the inside, thus stretching them a little. I think I prefer that method to knurling.
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