Earth/ground straps

[Floats]

Hi Guys,
I am in the process of cleaning up all the earth straps on my cars.
I would like to apply some sort of protective goop or sealer between the cleaned up bare metal and the earth strap in order to stop it from corroding. Much like the stuff recomended for battery terminals.
What about copper seal or something similar? Any suggestions will be much appreciated.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

i just spray the connections with the battery stuff (red in color)

[Bob C]

I like this stuff.

Bob

[katy]

Silicone dielectric grease works well.

[C26Pinelake]

Are you talking ground connections? Wayne

[tbirdtbird]

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i am with Bob C all the way. Expand his pic and look at the label. It is made for the purpose. A conductive anti-oxidant paste. Silicone grease will keep corrosion away but is not conductive. And whatever you use, be sure the connections are as mechanically tight as you can get

[Floats]

TKS Gents,
Thats what I want. I'll use the 'red battery stuff' in stead of the silicone dielectric grease because I would prefer the conductive stuff.
I hope it's available here.

[SeaSlugs]

I use conductive grease meant for welding lugs.

[Kevin in NJ]

On my frame I tinned it where the battery strap bolts in place. We like good old lead sometimes.

[wmws]

Why does that Kopr Shield say warning do not apply on live wires?

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by wmws

Why does that Kopr Shield say warning do not apply on live wires?

Because it is conductive and it might shock you (depending on the voltage in the wires). A 6 volt battery will not shock you. But it can be used for other things, at much higher voltages.

[Terry, NJ]

I know you weren't asking it, but I'll share this with you anyway. I put an auxiiary ground cable on my three As. I tried one (car) and I liked it so much I put it on the other two. I used the inside of the frame flange and connected both ground cables with the same (Brass) bolt. I ran the other cable to the bell housing bolt to give a more direct path. It seems to spin a little faster and the battery seems to run a little bit longer. And I used silicon Dielectric paste on the connections.
Terry

[tbirdtbird]

"Why does that Kopr Shield say warning do not apply on live wires?"

The product can be used on a system of any voltage. However few people want to apply it or anything else to live wires with say 120 V or 240 V.
But most cars have low voltage systems such as 6, 12, 24 volts, which cannot shock you.
However, the voltages of the electric cars and hybrids is quite high and can toast you good; stay away

[Floats]

TKS Terry,
Much appreciated, I have also taken an earth wire direct to the frame on one of my cars. Can't remember which one, but I'll check and do the rest as well.

AND TKS Guys for explaining the 'Kopr Shield live wire warning'

Have a great Sunday chaps.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

I know you weren't asking it, but I'll share this with you anyway. I put an auxiiary ground cable on my three As. I tried one (car) and I liked it so much I put it on the other two. I used the inside of the frame flange and connected both ground cables with the same (Brass) bolt. I ran the other cable to the bell housing bolt to give a more direct path. It seems to spin a little faster and the battery seems to run a little bit longer. And I used silicon Dielectric paste on the connections.
Terry

yea thats my project this fall is to run a dedicated ground strap from either side of the bell-housing to each frame rail. More dedicated grounds the better. there is not a good ground path on the model A in stock form by any means...

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

On Model A's, you can never have TOO many grounds, if you can do it in a nice HIDDEN way.
Chief always pulled hidden, dedicated grounds, through the headlight conduits & the tail light looms.
Grounding problems were NOT so common, when the cars were NEW & All the metal parts were SHINY NEW!
Chiefs' Son, Bill W.

[wmws]

I have an extra ground strap on my A. As I remember I put a little dielectric grease on the connection but now I wonder if I should have used something else like the Kopr Shield mentioned. Should I redo it and what is the proper use of Dielectric Grease?

[tbirdtbird]

dielectric grease is a protective coating (anti-oxidant) as is Kopr Shield. There are several brands similar to Kopr Shield out there, I use the stuff from the electrical isle at Lowe's.

The only difference is one is conductive and one is not.
For household voltages ie 120-240 volts you don't really want a non-conductive coating; you are not trying to insulate the connection, but rather, improve it electrically. To me, the same principle applies to car voltages 6-12-24. But if you cleaned the chassis to shiny bare metal, and really torqued down the mounting bolt for the cable, and applied dielectric grease after to the outside of the connection, and the starter turns easily, then I would leave it alone.

Just remember that a proper electrical connection needs to be both electrically and mechanically sound

If you have dielectric grease on there now and the starter is not dragging then I would just leave it alone.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

dielectric grease is a protective coating (anti-oxidant) as is Kopr Shield. There are several brands similar to Kopr Shield out there, I use the stuff from the electrical isle at Lowe's.

The only difference is one is conductive and one is not.
For household voltages ie 120-240 volts you don't really want a non-conductive coating; you are not trying to insulate the connection, but rather, improve it electrically. To me, the same principle applies to car voltages 6-12-24. But if you cleaned the chassis to shiny bare metal, and really torqued down the mounting bolt for the cable, and applied dielectric grease after to the outside of the connection, and the starter turns easily, then I would leave it alone.

Just remember that a proper electrical connection needs to be both electrically and mechanically sound

If you have dielectric grease on there now and the starter is not dragging then I would just leave it alone.

Agree with Dave,,
I used dielectric grease on my whole house generator electrical connectors to seal out any moisture from corroding the electrical pins. I also use it on spark plug boot wires to seal and protect the connection and also it makes for easier removal of the plug wire in then future. Most ignition wire sets come with a little tube of it...its also used on the mating surfaces of ignition modules on certain applications..
as stated if it aint broke dont fix it....we just love to fiddle huh

[noboD]

I've put never seize on ground and battery cables for about 40 years. It stops corrosion and is a good conductor.

[Terry, NJ]

I often thought of doing that. The Neverseize appears to be a nonferrous metallic compound that ought to be conductive. I've also thought about doing tests with a ohm meter for resistance and continuity.
Terry

Originally Posted by noboD

I've put never seize on ground and battery cables for about 40 years. It stops corrosion and is a good conductor.

[ian Simpson]

Worked a lot on battery driven vehicles back in the sixties. We used good old Vaseline when connecting ground or live cables or inter battery cables. Quick fixes of a corroded connection were by means of oil soaked emery cloth followed by Vaseline. If Vaseline was not available, we just flooded the site with oil

I still have the habit of touching the dipstick to battery terminals when checking the oil (but not on either the Model A or MGB as the batteries are out of easy reach on both vehicles.)

Like the idea of fitting extra grounds. Will put one or two on the Tudor during this winter's maintenance work.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

On Model A's, you can never have TOO many grounds, if you can do it in a nice HIDDEN way.
Chief always pulled hidden, dedicated grounds, through the headlight conduits & the tail light looms.
Grounding problems were NOT so common, when the cars were NEW & All the metal parts were SHINY NEW!
Chiefs' Son, Bill W.

yes i agree on adding a dedicated ground on headlights and taillights. engine grounds if you use a smallish braided cable as a ground 99% of the people out there think its supposed to be there.

the way I see dielectric VS conductive is this: dielectric is great for keeping water out such as spark plug boots or multipin connections or snap connections.

conductive grease does the same thing but also conducts, filling all those little pits scratches gouges etc. giving nearly 100% contact where before its only the high spots touching so you may have only 40% contact. an ohm meter wont show it. When you try to draw high amps thru it they will burn those peaks off and unless you have a spring loaded nut and bolt tightening it it will loosten up cause higher resistance more heat and more melting.

obviously a multi pin connector or conductive grease in a park plug boot is the opposite of helpful haha.

[tbirdtbird]

this is being over-thought

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

this is being over-thought

Yes, it is.
I use a high temp grease like Mystik JT-6 High Temp red grease for light bulb sockets, and all electrical connections. The mechanical connection of the spring pressure in metal push on terminals or the bolt clamping pressure will make a good metal to metal contact. As Mitch mentioned, if you have rubber boots on the spark plugs be sure to use a lube so they come off easier.

[ian Simpson]

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Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

this is being over-thought

That's the fun of it.

[31 Model A]

Grease is the recommended rust and corrosion preventer by the US Army on battery posts and connectors, at least it was while I was in. Same grease we used for the bearings.