Spark Advance Level problem

[JCHarvey]

My spark advance lever has always been rather stiff to operate but now it hardly will move at all. Has anyone had this problem and does the steering column need to come out to fix it?

[J Franklin]

Have you provided it with any lubrication?

[JCHarvey]

Where do lubricate the spark advance lever? I don’t see the spark lever as a required lubrication point and there doesn’t appear to be an obvious place to lubricate.

[jb-ob]

First the top bushing on the steering column is made from pot metal which will swell with time clamping on to the spark & throttle levers. Don't use WD-40 but rather a graphite lube same as for lock cylinders.

Drip some at the very top of the lever were it enters the top bushing, just at the quadrant.

You could spray some 'rust buster' oil up the shaft under the spark & throttle lever springs. Let the chemistry work, be patient.

[J Franklin]

Make sure the top plate in the distributer is free to move easily and a light grease in the groove won't hurt.

[nkaminar]

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Remove the levers at the bottom by tapping on the rods to break the small soft pins. Pull the levers up about an inch or so by twisting and pulling. Apply a little yellow Timesaver (https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/s...llow+timesaver) and twist and push the levers down. Continue twisting. Repeat this process until the levers free up. Clean off the Timesaver and apply some heavy oil or grease. Clean out the pins from the bottom of the rods and levers and install new pins. The springs hold the pins in place so there is no need to peen them. You can compress the springs in a vice and use 4 wraps of strong waxed cord to hold them compressed. Use a surgical knot. Cut the cord when the levers are installed and pull the cord out with a set of pliers. Make a note of which way the levers install. One is up side and one is down side.

[Gene F]

Nakimar nice how-to. People spout off this and that on here, but never give the proper information. Thanks!

[J Franklin]

Gene, Every post in this thread was on spot and helpful. Didn't need the comment.

[Gene F]

Yes, they were. I did not mean this thread. Sorry J

[J Franklin]

Gene, you are correct as far as some threads go. If they turn a corner then we all should make that observation.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Remove the levers at the bottom by tapping on the rods to break the small soft pins. Pull the levers up about an inch or so by twisting and pulling. Apply a little yellow Timesaver (https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/s...llow+timesaver) and twist and push the levers down. Continue twisting. Repeat this process until the levers free up. Clean off the Timesaver and apply some heavy oil or grease. Clean out the pins from the bottom of the levers and levers and install new pins. The springs hold the pins in place so there is no need to peen them. You can compress the springs in a vice and use 4 wraps of strong waxed cord to hold them compressed. Use a surgical knot. Cut the cord when the levers are installed and pull the cord out with a set of pliers. Make a note of which way the levers install. One is up side and one is down side.

You can also use thin wire instead of the waxed cord. I have a coil of 0.031” stainless wire that I use as safety wire. Also works well on the valve springs, compress them, wire them, insert and then clip the wires. Has saved me many skinned knuckles.

[JCHarvey]

Thanks all for the good responses, especially the detailed instructions from nkaminar. I will give that a try.